Old arrows from Paradanova may tempt you to follow the road, you are better off following the trail to enter Fonsagrada from the North on a quieter road.
Just beyond Silvela, on the forest track that connects it with Paradanova, you will pass an ermita and a restored capilla dedicated to Santa Bárbara. The camino passes straight through Paradanova 155.9. Immediately at the far end of town...
Fonfría derives its name from the fresh spring that feeds water to the fountain here and which was the catalyst for the construction of a pilgrims hospital in the late Middle Age. From time to time one of the villagers opens up her kitchen to invite pilgrims in for a coffee.
Standing directly between Fonfría and Barbeitos is a small hill. The road goes around it to the north and the camino goes around it to the south. The two meet in Barbeitos.
Be advised that there have been a growing number of false arrows in Paradanova. Some of them are the official looking blue and yellow plastic (most are painted arrows) signs.
These arrows are intended to detour you from Fonsagrada and towards A Proba de Burón...
Fonsagrada is the first town of any serious size since crossing into Galicia, and while it may not be a postcard quality village it does provide for everything you might need, including a selection of restaurants to choose from. If you are dining out consider trying the pulpo (...
The sacred fountain (fons sacrata) that gives the town its name is located behind the Iglesia de Santa María de Fonsagrada (on the aptly named Rúa do Fonte), a chapel-sized church in the center of town. The fountain and its curative waters are part of numerous miraculous bits...
The camino between Padrón and O Cádavo is arguably the most difficult of the route, and possibly the reason for the nickname the leg wrecker. Allow for extra time, especially after a rain since many of the sections become thick with mud.
The camino exits Fonsagrada along the main road, and shortly after follows a secondary road parallel to it, into Padrón. Beyond Padrón it follows through forested paths off of the road.
Accommodation in A Fonsagrada
Albergue de peregrinos Ramón Rodríguez
San Roque, 4
Albergue Pensión Cantábrico
Albergue Os Chaos
Camping A Fonsagrada
The camino between Padrón and O Cádavo is arguably the most difficult of the route, and quite possibly the reason for the nickname 'Rompe Piernass'. Allow for extra time, especially after a rain since many of the sections become thick with mud.
The ruins of the old Hospital de Montouto can be found here at the alto, though if history is any indication they may not stay for long; this refuge for pilgrims as been relocated more than once since it was built in 1357 as the camino route itself varied from century to century.
On the 25th of July the small chapel here is the destination for a romería from Fonsagrada in honor of Santiago.
From this alto it is a 300m descent to Paradavella in less than 4km. The path is entirely off of the road along a forest track.
There are several bars in this small village along the road.
From Paradavella the camino follows a trail to the right of the road and crosses it to descend into the village of Calzada (meaning road). The next village, also without services, is Degolada. The camino keeps to the south of the road...
At the far end of A Lastra keep to the left, along the oncoming exit road, and just before it returns to the main road turn left uphill towards the houses. The climb continues steeply uphill for a gain of about 150m and the last part rejoins the road as it...
Between Fontaneira and O Cadavo is a small plateau known as the Campo da Matanza. According to legend it was here that Alfonso II (the first pilgrim) and his troops defeated a Muslim invasion in the year 813.
At the far end of Fontaneira leave the LU-530 for a small road uphill (direction Pandelo). You will pass the cemetery and then return to the main road to follow it for close to 1km. The camino then leaves the road in favor of a path on the right. As you descend to O Cádavo you...
O Cádavo remains a largely agricultural town and is a checkpoint for travelers heading uphill in the opposite direction as its slightly lower altitude makes for a substantial difference in snowfall. The industry here is cows, both for dairy and for meat, and you are bound to see more...
The camino between here and Castroverde manages to avoid the steep LU-530 entirely. From O Cádavo it continues uphill along a farm lane to the town of Pradeda where you can look back for a nice view of O Cádavo. Beyond Pradeda...
The camino beyond the alto splits and there is now a new type of marker to contend with. In 2016 the Galician government installed new stones to mark the camino. When they were installed the routes were re-examined by planners and several changes and additions were made. In this case, the old...
The Gothic church here is a national monument and is known locally as the Cathedral of Castroverde (an only slight exaggeration). In summer months you are likely to find a small food truck at the edge of town.
The camino follows the road from here all the way to Castroverde, and the first building on your right when you get back to the LU-530 is the municipal albergue.
Castroverde marks the end of the descent, and although the terrain ahead is not flat by any stretch of the imagination, it could be described as gently rolling hills when compared to where you have come from. The relative flatness means that the ability to farm increases and indeed the...
Apart from vending machines there are no places to get food between here and Lugo, a distance of 21km. Pack a lunch.
The camino passes through town to the south (left) of the LU-530 and after passing the town hall it joins a trail through a chestnut forest. When it returns to the LU-530 it crosses straight over it (caution!) and turns left to go through a tunnel. It passes through...