The Caminos to Santiago de Compostela
Camino de Santiago Map 1
Saint Jean Pied de Port is the nexus of several routes that spread out across mainland Europe, and it was from here (primarily but not exclusively) that pilgrims most frequently made the crossing into the Iberian peninsula.
The tradition remains and the small town is often saturated with pilgrims, and pilgrim related tourism, during most of the year. With so many newly minted pilgrims roaming the streets, it has an air of excitement mixed with apprehension and a touch of dread.
You are advised to have a reservation before arriving, and the same holds true for...
Saint Jean Pied de Port, or Donibane Garazi as it is known in Basque (remember that the French border aside, this town was once a part of Lower Navarre and the Basque language is as common here as it is over the pass), was founded in the late 12th century by the Kings of Navarre...
It is important to be aware of the dangers of weather between here and Roncesvalles. These mountains have claimed more than a few lives, including several in recent history. If you have any questions regarding the journey ahead, the volunteers at the pilgrim office are there to help and...
Market day in Saint Jean Pied de Port is Monday, which is also one of its least busy days for pilgrims.
The distance between here and Roncesvalles is the most physically difficult stretch of road you are likely to encounter on the whole of your camino. From the “Foot of the Pass,” it is a steady climb for the majority of the day, with a rather steep descent into Roncesvalles for the...
Accommodation in Saint Jean Pied de Port
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Albergue de peregrinos de Saint Jean Pied de Port Municipal
Citadelle, 55
32 12€ |
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2 |
Albergue Le Chemin vers L Etoile Private
Espagne, 21
20 17-20€ Booking.com |
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3 |
Gîte Bidean Private
d'Espagne, 11
12 17€ |
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4 |
Albergue Zuharpeta Private
Zuharpeta, 5
22 18€ Booking.com |
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5 |
Gite Ultreia Private
Rue de la Citadelle, 8
7 24€ |
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6 |
Gîte de la Porte Saint-Jacques Private
Citadelle, 51
6 20€ Booking.com |
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7 |
Albergue Azkorria Private
Rue de la Citadelle, 50
8 29€ Booking.com |
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8 |
Gîte d’étape Makila Private
Citadelle, 35
8 25*€ Booking.com |
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9 |
Gîte Le Lièvre et La Tortue Private
Citadelle, 30
15 18+€ |
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10 |
Gîte La Vita è Bella Private
4 Place du Trinquet
13 17*€ Booking.com |
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11 |
Albergue Beilari Private
Citadelle, 40
18 37**€ |
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12 |
Gîte Zazpiak-Bat Private
Maréchal Harispe, 13B
14 25€ |
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13 |
Gîte La Coquille Napoléon Private
4 Place du Trinquet
10 18-20€ |
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14 |
Refuge Accueil Paroissial Kaserna Parochial
d'Espagne, 43
14 20*€ |
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15 |
Camping Municipal Plaza Berri Camping
Fronton
50 10 / tent€ |
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16 |
La Villa Esponda Pension
Trinquet, 9
Booking.com |
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17 |
Maison d’Hôtel Itzalpea Hotel
Trinquet, 5
Booking.com |
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18 |
Hotel Ramuntcho ⭑⭑ Hotel
France, 1
Booking.com |
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19 |
Hotel des Pyrénées ⭑⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Charles de Gaulle, 19
Booking.com |
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20 |
Hotel des Remparts ⭑⭑ Hotel
Floquet, 16
Booking.com |
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First bar stop and first accommodation option. Reservation is recommended.
Not far beyond Honto the camino leaves the asphalt road for the first time, and winds steeply uphill over the course of several switchbacks.
The Kayola albergue, operated by the Orisson albergue, is located where these switchbacks return you to the road.
From here the camino...
Accommodation in Honto [Huntto]
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Albergue Ferme Ithurburia Private 22 16€ Booking.com |
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Orisson is a common stopping point for pilgrims wishing to split the walk over the pass into more manageable sections.
If you arrive here late in the day don’t just pass on by. Drop in and inquire about the weather, and if you choose to continue on make it clear to somebody that you are doing so. If it is anywhere near nightfall (within 5 hours), stay here.
Accommodation in Orisson
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1 |
Kayola Private
Uhart-Cize
15 15€ |
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Auberge Borda Private
D428 sur le GR 65
12 40**€ |
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Refuge Orisson Private
Uhart-Cize
18 36**€ |
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Also known as Napoleon’s Pass. There is often a small food truck which sells drinks and snacks, and which offers the last stamp in France.
Navarra is the first of the Spanish Autonomous Communities along the Camino Francés. It extends from here, in the heights of the Pyrenees to the river plains of the Ebro on the outskirts of Logroño.
The language in these parts is officially Spanish and Basque. It should be noted that although Navarra is divided between Basques and Spaniards, the majority of the population here refers to this part of the world as Basqueland (pais vasco) rather than Spain.
The signage here reflects that sentiment. Most towns have an alternative name...
In Arnéguy you will cross the main road (D933) and the bridge. The way will lead you to a country road that is lower in the valley and which will bring you to Valcarlos from the lower part of town.
Accommodation in Arnéguy
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1 |
Hotel Le Clementenia Hotel
Le bourg D933
Booking.com |
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To get to most services in town you will have to follow the road a short distance back in the direction of Arnéguy.
The church here is of a modern design and is often locked up. This is frequently the case, particularly in the rural corners of Spain. If you are comfortable asking around, usually at the nearest bar, somebody will know somebody with a key. They will almost always open up for pilgrims.
Domingo de Resurrección - Easter Sunday. In Valcarlos the Resurrection is celebrated with dancing and singing and draws a considerable crowd.
You will leave town along the main road, eventually abandoning it for a smaller road on your left. Gañecoleta is less than 1km from the departure from the main road.
Accommodation in Valcarlos
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Albergue municipal de Valcarlos Municipal
Elizaldea, 52
24 10*€ |
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Casa Rural Erlanio Casa Rural
Elizaldea, 58
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Casa Rural Etxezuria Casa Rural
Elizaldea, 60
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Hostal Maitena Hostal
Elizaldea
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From here the way to the pass is quite steep, particularly the last few kilometers.
Commonly referred to as Roncesvalles Pass and home to the modern Ermita de San Salvador de Ibañeta. The pass has existed as an important crossing point since Roman times and was one of the principal crossings into the Iberian peninsula. From here it is all downhill into Roncesvalles, 1.6km.
The popular dinner spot is Casa Sabina, and you’ll want to put your name on the list (at their bar) in advance. The dining room sees pilgrims from the world over sat down at random to fill the tables. Half are about to start their walk, beginning here, the other half just came off the mountain. The length of their stride tells them apart.
It doesn’t take much to see the whole town, but nearly every building is a treasure of some kind.
Nearest the albergue is the Iglesia de Santa Maria, where a pilgrim Mass and benediction is held daily at 8pm (6pm on weekends). The ...
Roncesvalles is the setting for the epic battle of Charlemagne and Roland, where they were ambushed (by whom is unclear, perhaps the Muslims, perhaps the Basques). Roland perished and a legend was born. Centuries later the church would capitalize on the name, and the abbey...
Dia de la Virgen de Roncesvalles is celebrated every year on September 8th. Romerías (a local piligrimage) are held on the Sundays of May and June, and the Wednesday before the 8th of September.
The camino leaves along a footpath to the west of the main road (your right hand side), pressing deeper into the forest before returning to the road as it approaches Burguete.
Accommodation in Roncesvalles [Orreaga]
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1 |
Refugio de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles - Itzandegia Parochial
Real Colegiata de Roncesvalles
90 14€ |
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2 |
Casa Sabina Pension
Roncesvalles, 18
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Apartamentos Casa de los Beneficiados ⭑ Pension
Roncesvalles
Booking.com |
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4 |
Hostal Posada de Roncesvalles Hostal
Roncesvalles
Booking.com |
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5 |
Hotel Roncesvalles ⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Roncesvalles, 14
Booking.com |
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![Photo of Roncesvalles [Orreaga] on the Camino de Santiago](https://www.wisepilgrim.com/sites/default/files/styles/bootstrap3_col4/public/newimages/816-133772.jpg?itok=N2CtMFoS "Photo of Roncesvalles [Orreaga] on the Camino de Santiago")
![Photo of Roncesvalles [Orreaga] on the Camino de Santiago](https://www.wisepilgrim.com/sites/default/files/styles/bootstrap3_col4/public/newimages/816-133800.jpg?itok=yk_YYFZm "Photo of Roncesvalles [Orreaga] on the Camino de Santiago")
![Photo of Roncesvalles [Orreaga] on the Camino de Santiago](https://www.wisepilgrim.com/sites/default/files/styles/bootstrap3_col4/public/newimages/816-133801.jpg?itok=b9YtbpAT "Photo of Roncesvalles [Orreaga] on the Camino de Santiago")
Camino de Santiago Map 2
Immortalized by and little changed since Ernest Hemmingway lodged here 1924. He was on a fishing trip, no doubt catching some of the trout that swim these rivers and which luckily for us end up on more than a few dinner tables.
The architecture here is typically Basque; massive multi-generation family homes with a name or a crest above the door.
Several good cafés and proof that the first cup of coffee you come to in town may not be the best. There is also a bakery/café beyond the turn mentioned below.
San Juan is celebrated the 24th to 26th of June. Other festivals include one for the Arts on the second Sunday of August, and another for Farming on the last Sunday of September.
Keep your wits about you when walking through town because the camino takes a sharp right turn halfway through. There are no less than twelve yellow arrows marking the turn, but it can still be overlooked by those admiring the charm of Burguete.
Accommodation in Burguete [Auritz]
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Casa Rural Pedroarena Casa Rural
Berexi, 6
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Casa Rural Txiki Polit Casa Rural
Roncesvalles, 42
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Casa Rural Don Jáuregui de Burguete Casa Rural
San Nicolás, 32
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Casa Rural Iturrialdea Casa Rural
Roncesvalles
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Casa Rural Bergara Casa Rural
San Nicolás, 44
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Hostal Burguete Hostal
San Nicolás, 71
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Hotel Rural Loizu ⭑⭑⭑ Hotel Rural
San Nicolás, 13
Booking.com |
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![Photo of Burguete [Auritz] on the Camino de Santiago](https://www.wisepilgrim.com/sites/default/files/styles/bootstrap3_col4/public/newimages/817-133773.jpg?itok=nZbQq6kW "Photo of Burguete [Auritz] on the Camino de Santiago")
![Photo of Burguete [Auritz] on the Camino de Santiago](https://www.wisepilgrim.com/sites/default/files/styles/bootstrap3_col4/public/newimages/817-133794.jpg?itok=miJkf5RP "Photo of Burguete [Auritz] on the Camino de Santiago")
An alternative to spending the night in Roncesvalles for pilgrims arriving there too late in the evening to walk a full day, as the stretch between the two is 5km along mostly flat ground.
Between here and Pamplona, you will notice many villages perched above the valley floor. This was to maximize both farmland (shared and more fertile near the river) and security.
The founding of Espinal, now an uninspiring town comprised mostly of modern chalets, was driven by the desire to keep pilgrims safe. This river valley has a long history of battle and banditry, and it was in the interest of the Navarran Kings (in this case Teobaldo-II) to...
The last Sunday in August.
Accommodation in Espinal [Aurizberri]
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Irugoienea Private
Oihanilun, 2
21 12€ Booking.com |
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Albergue Haizea ⭑⭑⭑ Private
Saroiberri
30 12€ Booking.com |
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3 |
Camping Urrobi Camping
Pamplona-Valcarlos, Km. 42
5.15€ |
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4 |
Casa Rural Gertxada Casa Rural
Espinal
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Casa Rural Roncesvalles Casa Rural
San Bartolome, 86
Booking.com |
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![Photo of Espinal [Aurizberri] on the Camino de Santiago](https://www.wisepilgrim.com/sites/default/files/styles/bootstrap3_col4/public/newimages/818-134835.jpg?itok=vwpSl7lX "Photo of Espinal [Aurizberri] on the Camino de Santiago")
![Photo of Espinal [Aurizberri] on the Camino de Santiago](https://www.wisepilgrim.com/sites/default/files/styles/bootstrap3_col4/public/newimages/818-133774.jpg?itok=dKIPAYOe "Photo of Espinal [Aurizberri] on the Camino de Santiago")
There is a bar at the start of town which provides decent service. Another, Bar Juan, is in the square. The supermarket is at the far end of town.
Accommodation in Bizkarreta [Gerendiain]
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1 |
Casa Rural Maitetxu Casa Rural
San Pedro, 12
Booking.com |
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2 |
Casa Rural Idiara Casa Rural
San Pedro, 88
Booking.com |
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3 |
Casa Rural Adi y Lastur Casa Rural
San Pedro, 8A
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Casa Rural Amatxi Elsa Casa Rural
San Pedro, 14
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Casa Rural La Posada Nueva Casa Rural
San Pedro, 2
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Casa Rural Batit Casa Rural
San Pedro, 18 B
Booking.com |
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Pensión El-La Pension
San Pedro, 19
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![Photo of Bizkarreta [Gerendiain] on the Camino de Santiago](https://www.wisepilgrim.com/sites/default/files/styles/bootstrap3_col4/public/newimages/819-134837.jpg?itok=wrfW3UnR "Photo of Bizkarreta [Gerendiain] on the Camino de Santiago")