The Camino del Norte: in the basque country
The city of Irún, on the west bank of the Río Bidasoa, is the first Spanish city on the Camino del Norte; though it might be more accurately referred to as the first Basque city west of the river. To the east is France, and if your inbound flight landed there your connecting...
Irún, Irúña, and a third city named Iruña de Oca were the three most important outposts of the Roman empire in the Basque territories. Two significant battles took place here; the first and second battles of San Marcial. In the Summer of 1522 the local Basques,...
The name Irún is often confused with Irúña (the Basque name for Pamplona), something to keep in mind when booking tickets.
Irún is also the starting point for the Basque Interior Camino, which travels southwest to join the Camino Francés in Santo Domingo de...
The fiestas of San Pedro and San Marcial, known collectively as Sanmarciales, are held at the end of June. San Marcos is celebrated on the 25th of April.
Getting started in Irún is easiest from the train station or the municipal albergue, both are located in the Barrio San Miguel (though there is no church dedicated to the Saint).
From the terminal head straight towards the dome of the nearby Iglesia San Gabriel and...
Accommodation in Irún
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Hospital de peregrinos de Irun Municipal
Lesaka, 1
60 Donativo€ |
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2 |
Albergue juvenil Martindozenea Private
Avenida. Elizatxo, 18
60 17-23€ |
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3 |
Pensión Bowling Pension
Mourlane Michelena, 2
Booking.com |
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4 |
Pensión Bidasoa ⭑⭑ Pension
Estación, 14
Booking.com |
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Pensión Mari Carmen Pension
Serapio Mugica, 33
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Pensión Lizaso Pension
Aduana, 5
Booking.com |
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Hotel Alcázar ⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Iparralde, 11
Booking.com |
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The two Pasajes sit on opposite sides of the river, a narrow stretch that is crossed quickly by a small ferry. The albergue is located high up on the hillside. If you are a fan of fresh seafood the Falcon Crest restaurant on the San Pedro side has a decent reputation...
June: San Juan on the 24th and San Pedro on the 29th. July: The patron, San Fermín, on the 7th. Followed by Santiago on the 25th and San Pantaleón on the 27th.
Accommodation in Pasajes de San Juan
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Hospital de peregrinos Santa Ana Municipal
Ermita de Santa Ana
14 Donativo€ |
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Once off the ferry, the official camino turns right while a road variant turns left. Turn right to follow the coastline to the sea, passing a boat yard along the way. Where the road ends, the path and climb (on steps) begins. At the top the camino returns to a paved road, turn right when it does...
San Sebastián is one of the best-known tourist destinations in all of Spain, and is the capital city of the Basque province of Guipúzkoa (there are two more provinces in Spain and three in France). The city is home to about 200,000 people and twice as many more annual tourists...
San Sebastián was founded in the late 12th century by King Sancho (the wise) of Navarra to be its principal maritime port. This was useful to Sancho, but to the people of the town it was of little benefit to support a kingdom with so few opportunities to expand. In less than a few...
Although a bit too early in the year for the majority of passing pilgrims, the Tamborrada is held on the day of San Sebastián, January 20th.
August makes up for the rest of the year with the Assumption of Mary on the 15th followed by the Basque Fiestas at the end of the month through the start of September.
Turn right on the Avenida de Navarra towards the sea, the road follows it and you follow the road. You can walk in the sand of the Playa Zurriola if it suits you, the way ahead is evident as it crosses the bridge over the Río Uramea.
Once over the bridge...
Accommodation in San Sebastián
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1 |
Albergue juvenil Ondarreta - La Sirena Municipal
Igueldo, 25
100 16-20€ Booking.com |
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Albergue Juvenil Ulía Municipal
Ulía, 297
54 15-18€ Booking.com |
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3 |
Pensión Kaia ⭑⭑ Pension
Puerto, 12
Booking.com |
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4 |
Pensión Anne ⭑ Pension
Esterlines, 15
Booking.com |
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Pensión San Fermín ⭑ Pension
Fermín Calbetón, 23
Booking.com |
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Pensión Donostiarra ⭑⭑ Pension
San Martín, 6
Booking.com |
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Pensión Artea ⭑⭑ Pension
San Bartolome, 33
Booking.com |
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Downtown River Hostel Hostal
San Martín, 2
30/40€ Booking.com |
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Hostel Urban House Hostal
Plaza de Gipuzkoa, 2
Booking.com |
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Hotel Términus ⭑⭑ Hotel
Francia, 21
Booking.com |
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11 |
Hotel de Londres ⭑⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Zubieta, 2
Booking.com |
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Hotel María Cristina ⭑⭑⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Plaza República Argentina, 4
Booking.com |
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Okako Hotel ⭑ Hotel
Iztueta, 7
Booking.com |
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Igueldo as a territory occupies the whole of the massif and the views along it are grand. All services are located along the main road, south of the camino.
From the Buenavista Hotel the camino keeps to the paved roads for several more kilometers but eventually heads back into the forest along trails and even along centuries old cobbled roads as it descends to the AP-8. After passing under the AP-8 turn right to follow the road steeply...
Accommodation in Igueldo
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Camping Igueldo San Sebastián Camping
Plaza Padre Orkolaga, 69
Booking.com |
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Hotel Nicol’s ⭑⭑ Hotel
Plaza Gudamendi, 21
Booking.com |
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Orio has a pretty small center, as it is stuck between the river and the hills. The primary industry in these parts is still fishing and the specialty in Orio is grilled bream. In centuries past pilgrims crossed the river here by boat.
The local church is dedicated to San Nicolas de Bari, patron of fishermen and a well known Saint among pilgrims.
The Day of the Fishermen, San Pedro, is celebrated on the 29th of June. The patron of Orio, San Nicolás de Bari, is celebrated on the 6th of December.
The camino reaches the riverfront and turns left (inland) towards the nearest bridge over the river. Once across the bridge, it turns right to follow the N-634 a short distance. Where the road bends left, the camino exits to the right to follow the waterfront and the Portua. Stay along...
Accommodation in Orio
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Albergue de peregrinos San Martin Private
Casa Arteta
20 12€ |
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Casa Rural Mailán Casa Rural
Arratola, 18
Booking.com |
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Hostal Xaloa ⭑⭑ Hostal
Estropalari, 26
Booking.com |
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Hotel Txanka Erreka ⭑ Hotel
Barrio San Martín, 5
Booking.com |
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The beach in Zarautz, which is not on the marked camino, is the longest beach in the Basque country. This Queen of Beaches as it is known is the largest tourism draw to the town and every Summer the city fills with thousands of surfers who come to compete. The palaces that once lined...
Very little of Zarautz’s famed fishing past remains. The men here were the dominant whalers of their time until the whales disappeared from the Bay of Biscay. During the 19th century, when seaside palaces were the rage, the bourgeoisie built them here along the promenade.
Zarautz is a popular event town and plays host to several surfing competitions and bike races throughout the summer. Both can put a crunch on the number of beds available.
January: San Sebastián on the 20th, as well as a few wine celebrations throughout the month.
February: Santa Águeda, patroness of the Basque Country, on the 4th. The town also celebrates Carnaval.
May: Santa Marina is celebrated on the 21st.
June: San Pelayo from the 25th to the 27th.
July: Santiago on the 25th.
August: Santa Clara on the 12th, and the Virgen from the 14th to the 16th.
September: Semana Vasca, or Basque Week, from the 1st to the 9th.
The marked way through Zarautz is along the Nafarroa Kalea, about two blocks from the waterfront and parallel to it. As an alternate, you can turn right towards the beach and follow it to the end of town.
Leaving Zarautz can be a confusing affair and the local...
Accommodation in Zarautz
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Albergue público de Zarautz Municipal
Zumalakarregi, 16
30 Donativo€ |
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Blai Blai Hostel Private
Nafarroa, 37
24 22+€ Booking.com |
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Galerna Zarautz Hostel Private
Mitxelena, 35
18 22€ Booking.com |
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Zarautz Hostel Private
Gipuzkoa, 59
24 20-30*€ Booking.com |
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Albergue Gran Cámping Zarautz Camping
Monte Talai-mendi
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Pensión Lagunak ⭑⭑ Pension
San Francisco 10
Booking.com |
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Pensión Txiki Polit ⭑⭑ Pension
Plaza Musika
Booking.com |
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Pensión Musika Plaza ⭑ Pension
Orape 7-2
Booking.com |
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Hotel Olatu ⭑ Hotel
Ipar 10
Booking.com |
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Hotel Zarauz ⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Nafarroa, 26
Booking.com |
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Hotel Alameda ⭑⭑ Hotel
Guipuzkoa
Booking.com |
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The old town of Getaria sits on the shallow bit of land that leads from the mainland to the Monte San Anton and is small enough to take in on your way through town.
Do spend at least a few minutes visiting the Iglesia de San Salvador, whose wonky sloping floor...
April: San Prudencio on the 27th.
May: Antxoa on the 3rd, San Isidro on the 4th, and the Day of the Fisherman on the 5th.
June: San Juan on the 23rd and 24th.
August: San Salvador on the 6th.
November: San Martín on the 11th.
If you came into Getaria along the N-634 you will have to climb up to rejoin the camino.
If you came into Getaria along the trail you will have to decide whether you want to descend into town (and then return) or whether to keep on walking.
The camino passes the...
Accommodation in Getaria
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Albergue Kanpaia Private
San Prudentzio, 28
30 15€ |
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Pensión Iribar Pension
Aldamar, 23
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Pensión Getariano ⭑⭑ Pension
Herrerieta, 3
32 Booking.com |
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Hotel Itxas Gain ⭑ Hotel
San Roque, 1
Booking.com |
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Hotel Rural Gaintza ⭑⭑ Hotel
Barrio de San Prudentzio, 26
Booking.com |
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At the far end of Askizu the camino forks at a house, turn right. The trail here affords excellent views of the sea. It will begin to descend, passing the Playa de Santiago far below. At sea level it rejoins the N-634 along a pedestrian walkway into Zumaia.
The...
At the far end of Askizu the camino forks at a house, turn right. The trail here affords excellent views of the sea. It will begin to descend, passing the Playa de Santiago far below. At sea level it rejoins the N-634 along a pedestrian walkway into Zumaia.
The...
Accommodation in Askizu
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Albergue Agote Aundi Private
Barrio de Azkizu
15 15€ |
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The city is poised on the west bank of the confluence of two rivers, so there are naturally a few bridges to cross. It is after the second crossing that you get to the oldest part of town, the monuments, and the best food.
In the center stands the Iglesia de San Pedro Apostol,...
San Pedro on the 29th of June.
Just over this second footbridge, the camino splits. The official camino continues straight ahead and upwards through town. The alternate route again follows the GR-121 by turning right. They rejoin within 3.5km.
The alternate route, known as the Ruta de Flysch because it...
Accommodation in Zumaia
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Albergue Santa Klara Private
Santa Klara, 2
16 25*€ |
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Albergue de Zumaia (Convento de San José) Association
Arritokieta kalea
25 8€ |
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Casa Rural Landarte Casa Rural
Ctra. Artadi, 1
Booking.com |
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4 |
Pensión Goiko ⭑⭑ Pension
Erribera, 9
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Hotel Zumaia ⭑⭑ Hotel
Alai Auzategia, 13
Booking.com |
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Hotel Talasoterapia Zelai ⭑ Hotel
Playa Itzurun
Booking.com |
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In Elorriaga the camino splits again. The GR-121 turns off to the right just before you get to the bar in town, and follows the coastline once more and in doing so it does not pass Itziar.
The official camino follows the road out of Elorriaga,...
The name Itziar, and a few derivations of it, is a popular name given to Basque women. Its origin goes back to the 8th century when a temple was built in reverence to Santa Maria de Itziar. Her statue remains here, and is venerated as much by sailors as by pilgrims.
From Itziar the camino turns north to return to the sea at Deba. Past the church turn right at the first fork and follow the country lane. You won’t notice any more highways as you wind your way towards Deba, but they are none-the-less tunneling beneath you.
Accommodation in Itziar
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Casa Rural Donibane ⭑ Casa Rural Booking.com |
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Hotel Kanala ⭑⭑ Hotel
Itziar Auzoa
Booking.com |
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A small and compact town with a large beach, and one of the few towns along the way built on terrain so steep that elevators have been installed to help people get up and down. The Ermita de San Roque, on the hillside, is along the camino as you descend into Deba.
There...
Not many ships come to Deba these days, but that has not always been the case. Because of the Ermita de San Roque, it was once a popular starting point for pilgrims arriving at the peninsula by sea.
Wave goodbye to the sea. It will be exactly 80km before it returns into view in Bilbao. Between here and there are several mountainous stretches.
San Roque is celebrated from the 14th to the 18th of August.
The camino and the GR-121 alternate route meet in Deba near the ermita. The camino crosses the river along a footbridge near the train station and on the opposite bank turns right. A short distance later it crosses the road and just beyond that it turns left, going upwards once again...
Accommodation in Deba
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Albergue de Deba Association
Plaza de Arakistain
56 5€ |
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Pensión Zumardi ⭑⭑ Pension
Marina, 12
Booking.com |
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Hotel Aisia Deba ⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Markiegi, 6
Booking.com |
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The bar is in the albergue, and opens at 12:30.
Just beyond the Albergue and bar turn left at the fork to follow a trail instead of the road. You will rejoin the asphalt road shortly before Olatz.
Accommodation in Ibiri Auzoa
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Albergue Izarbide Private
Barrio de Ibiri 3-A
32 13€ |
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The distance from Olatz to Markina is without services of any kind. Be sure to re-fill your water here.
Follow the road past the bar and small park, and when it forks keep to your right uphill on the narrower option. From here to Markina the camino twists and turns quite a bit. It is countryside walking all the way to Markina, where a steep descent brings you into the city from...
Having left the province of Gipuzkoa behind, Markina-Xemein is the first city of note in Viscaya.
There are a number of monuments in town, thanks in large part to the pilgrimage route.
They are the Convento e Iglesia de la Merced, Santa María de la Asunción de...
Market day is Thursday, in the Plaza del Mercado.
June: San Juan is celebrated on the 24th and San Pedro the 29th.
July: San Martín on the 7th, San Cristóbal on the 10th, and San Ignacio de Loyola the 31st.
August: Goerria on the 1st, Nuestra Señora de las Nieves on the 5th, and San Jacinto on the 17th.
September: Nuestra Señora de Erdotza on the 8th and San Miguel Arcángel on the 29th.
October: Santa Teresa de Jesús on the 15th.
The marked camino passes the church and convent and turns right at the first street past them. Follow the road across a small river and turn left at the first road, keeping close to the nearby building to follow a park trail as is wiggles its way along the river. The camino will take you back...
Accommodation in Markina-Xemein
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1 |
Albergue Pitis Private
Carmen, 11
6 12-15€ |
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Albergue de peregrinos Convento del Carmen Markina Association
Carmen, 5
40 Donativo€ |
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Albergue Intxauspe Casa Rural
Barrio Atxondo 10
20 12€ |
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Hostal Vega Hostal
Abesua, 2
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You will enter town from a back road. There is a car park on your right when you get to the main road. Turn left here (facing east) to get to the bridge over the river. Cross the river and then turn right again, quickly followed by another right to leave the road and the town. More mountain...
Simón Bolívar, leader of many South American independence movements and namesake to both Bolivia and the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela, was not born in this town which carries his name and a monument and a museum dedicated to him. Neither were any of his relatives, but as things go...
At the roundabout at the start of town, follow the road sign to Urua (the only option which crosses the river). This is only to get you off of the main road, which you could just as easily follow to the end of town. The camino passes the Simon Bolivar Museum and arrives at the church...
Accommodation in Bolibar
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Albergue Usandi Auto Check-in Private
Urezandi, 2
20 12€ Booking.com |
Where the camino meets the road in Ziortza, it is 50m to your left to the bar and albergue, or less than 300 to your right to get to the Monastery.
Accommodation in Ziortza
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Albergue Ziortza Beitia Private
Barrio Goierria, 13
46 12€ |
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If you ask the locals, or don’t since they will none-the-less volunteer their opinion, Munitibar is the very heart of the Basque country. It kind of feels that way too.
The old trading routes once passed through here, sending wool and wine from Logroño up to the sea while hauling back fish on the return trip.
January: San Vicente on the 22nd.
June: San Pedro on the 29th.
July: San Cristobal on the 10th.
September: Nuestra Señora de Gerrikaitz on the 8th.
After crossing the main square in Munitibar, the camino turns left at the church to follow the main road out of town, though only for a short distance. Less than 50m beyond the river it turns left up a side road, climbing up to and beyond the Ermita de Santiago. From the ermita...
Accommodation in Munitibar
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Albergue Lea Municipal
Herriko Plaza, 3
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Casa Rural Garro Casa Rural
Barrio Gerrikaitz, 33
Booking.com |
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