The Camino del Norte: in the basque country

The city of Irún, on the west bank of the Río Bidasoa, is the first Spanish city on the Camino del Norte; though it might be more accurately referred to as the first Basque city west of the river. To the east is France, and if your inbound flight landed there your connecting train will cross the border without difficulty.

The bridge over the river here is called the Puente de Santiago and it is the traditional starting point. Be that as it may, the arrows are scant city wide so you will have to be alert and you may well need to ask around. Otherwise follow...

The Santuario is maintained by an Italian fraternity and the hours are limited; if you spot an open door duck in.

It was built in the 16th century and is home to the Black Virgen that was discovered on this hillside by two children. It also displays some high flying ships, a reminder to the faithful that the virgin provides safe harbor to the men who work the seas.

Along a side road behind the Sanctuary is the well-concealed Forte de Guadalupe. It was built at the tail end of the 19th century; a distinction which makes it one of the last of its kind to be constructed...

San Sebastián is one of the best-known tourist destinations in all of Spain, and is the capital city of the Basque province of Guipúzkoa (there are two more provinces in Spain and three in France). The city is home to about 200,000 people and twice as many more annual tourists, who flock to the Cantabrian seaside to enjoy the sands of the La Concha beach as well as the many international festivals to films and dance that are held here annually. This despite being one of the rainiest cities in Spain (a point which offers little consolation to rain-soaked Santiago...

Igueldo as a territory occupies the whole of the massif and the views along it are grand. All services are located along the main road, south of the camino.

Orio has a pretty small center, as it is stuck between the river and the hills. The primary industry in these parts is still fishing and the specialty in Orio is grilled bream. In centuries past pilgrims crossed the river here by boat.

The old town of Getaria sits on the shallow bit of land that leads from the mainland to the Monte San Anton and is small enough to take in on your way through town.

Do spend at least a few minutes visiting the Iglesia de San Salvador, whose wonky sloping floor makes for a curious feel.

On the other end of the cultural spectrum, fashionistas or lovers of curated collections should visit the Cristobal Balenciaga Museum.

The city is poised on the west bank of the confluence of two rivers, so there are naturally a few bridges to cross. It is after the second crossing that you get to the oldest part of town, the monuments, and the best food.

In the center stands the Iglesia de San Pedro Apostol, austere but with some oil paintings of 15th-century merchant ships and a few side chapels. On the north end of town, near the coast, is the Ermita de San Telmo.

Between these two buildings, it is at the latter where you are likely to find throngs of tourists and the occasional tour bus...