Torres del Río
Camino Frances
Torres del Río sits in the valley of the Río Linares, its buildings restored to a state that makes the village look more populated than it actually is. The reason to stop here is the Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro — an octagonal Romanesque church built between 1160 and 1180 that ranks among the most remarkable small buildings on the Camino.
Like Eunate, the octagonal plan echoes the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. But it's the interior that sets this church apart: the vault is a Hispano-Muslim design, its ribs crossing to form an eight-pointed star. Small openings between the ribs filter light through delicate grillwork, creating a play of light and shadow that changes through the day. A 13th-century crucifix — the Cristo de los Caballeros del Sepulcro — hangs in the apse.
The debate over its origins mirrors Eunate's: Templar, Hospitaller, or funerary? The scholarly consensus leans toward the Knights of the Holy Sepulchre, but certainty remains elusive. What's certain is that the building is exceptional. Ask at the bar about visiting hours — the church is kept locked but someone in the village holds the key.
A couple of albergues and bars serve the village. Basic supplies available.
The stretch between here and Viana — about 11 km — has frequent ups and downs on exposed terrain. The only shade and service point is at the Capilla de la Virgen del Poyo, where a seasonal food kiosk sets up. Carry water.
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