The Camino Francés: in Galicia

Welcome to Galicia, where the legend of Santiago was born. This northwesternmost corner of the Spanish Peninsula bears little resemblance to the type of landscape that typically comes to mind when thinking about Spain.  It is wet, and very green, and the mountains that surround it have for centuries kept it isolated from the rest of the country.

The language here is Gallego and although it has been distilled into one teachable form, you are more likely to get an earful of a more rustic, ancient, and totally incomprehensible version as you pass from one village to another. ...

Liñares lacks the charm of O Cebreiro but offers the distinct advantage of having a new albergue. The municipal albergue in O Cebreiro has a tendency to become very crowded.

Small shop inside the albergue. The village is quite small, only 40 people. Three of the families make their living producing Queixo de Cebreiro, which can be sampled at the bar in the albergue.

At the end of town when leaving Triacastela you arrive at a fork in the road, presenting two distinct ways to Sarria. Distances shown are from Triacastela, through Aguiada to Sarria.

Beyond Samos, the camino once again splits, allowing you to rejoin the Calvor and San Xil route in Aguiada. This is the preferred route as it spends the least amount of time along the roadside. Alternatively, you can stay on the road from Samos all the way to Sarria. A third option is to go to Samos, and shortly after turn...