The Camino Francés: in burgos

Redecilla is the first town in Castilla y León along the Camino Francés and was an important stop along the way during the 12th century, when two pilgrim hospices cared for pilgrims.  One of them, San Lázaro, lends its name to the municipal albergue.

The gem of Redecilla is the Romanesque baptismal font in the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Calle.

There is a tourist information office here, remarkable given the size of the town but easily explained by its location.

This sleepy agricultural town is best known for being the cuña (birthplace) of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. History did not see fit to preserve his house but the font in which he was baptized remains in the church.

Sandwiches and beverages are available at the Parada Viloria albergue.

Belorado manages to maintain some of its advantages, but hard times have certainly taken their toll. A walk around the perimeter streets will reveal a quickly crumbling infrastructure. On the hillside sit the remains of a castle.

Several churches remain and the hospices have been replaced by many modern albergues. The main square is a nice place to hide from the sun if you fancy a rest.

Do like the locals and avoid the restaurants in the main square; one of the best options for dinner is at the Cuatro Cantones albergue restaurant.

The Iglesia de Santa María...

In recent years, the diminutive Tosantos has grown up a bit and now has a bar. The albergue parroquial is somewhat unique and maintains a tradition of communal meals and singalongs.

The nearby Ermita de la Peña, built into the cliffs, is a must see. A statue of Jesus as a child was hidden there for protection during the 9th century. It now spends half the year in the ermita and the other half in the Iglesia de San Esteban. Ask there for the key. If you stay in the albergue here, the hospitalero will likely offer a guided visit.

Espinosa has seen better days. Even with centuries of passing pilgrims it struggles to stay on the map. In recent years, a few buildings have been rehabilitated into an albergue and a bar.

For the better part of the last 3 decades excavations have been underway to learn more about our prehistory. In the caves outside of town, the remains of early humans have been discovered; some as old as 800,000 years. Most of the discoveries have been transferred to the Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos.