Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Camino Frances

To end of camino
556.3
Altitude
641

Cirueña

5.90

Santo Domingo de la Calzada

7.00

Grañón

Services
ATM
Yes
Bar
Yes
Bus
Yes
Bus Terminal
Yes
Correos
Yes
Grocery
Yes
Medical Center
Yes
Pharmacy
Yes

The highlight of the town is the Catedral de Santo Domingo de la Calzada and its gothic henhouse.  Santo Domingo is buried there as well, fittingly, in the middle of the road. The only remaining tower (of the original three) is detached and is located across the street.  This is a rarity in Spain, particularly for a building of such importance, and the location was selected as the nearest place where a suitable foundation could be built. Tours are available.

Fiesta

The Feast day of Santo Domingo is celebrated from May 1st  to the 15th, but the celebration really gets going on the 10th. This is quite a celebration indeed, and the feasts themselves include a tremendous quantity of meet followed by all-night processions through town.

There is also a medieval market, held from the 4th to the 8th of December.

History

“Santo Domingo of the Road” is named after a local monk (Domingo of Viloria) who dedicated his life to the care of pilgrims. In particular, he focused on the engineered elements of the way, building roads and bridges to improve the quality of passage. It was he that built the original bridge over the río Oja on the outskirts of town.

The town is also the setting for the miracle of the “Hanged Innocent.” The same miraculous story is told in various parts of Europe (Toulouse, France and Barcelos, Portugal), and the miracle is confusingly attributed to either Santiago or Santo Domingo depending on the telling. It centers around a family of German pilgrims who stopped to rest in Santo Domingo.

When their young son refused the romantic advances of the innkeepers daughter she laid a trap. She stashed a piece of silver from the church in his bag, and made sure to notify the authorities. He was charged with theft and sentenced to hang. These being medieval times, the body was left to hang for weeks as a warning to others. His parents meanwhile, mourning their loss, finished their pilgrimage to Santiago.

Returning through Santo Domingo de la Calzada, they stopped to visit their son (a fairly morbid visit given his state) and were astonished to find him alive and well, though still hanging. His weight had been supported by one of the saints. His parents knew a miracle when they saw one (apparently, the rest of the townspeople did not) and went straight to the officials to report that he was alive. Incredulous, one of the officials replied that the boy was no more alive than the chicken he was roasting; whereupon the miracle continues with the reanimation of the chickens which took to their feet, clucking and squawking.

The town never forgot the miracle, and part of the gallows remains on display in the Cathedral transept over the Saints tomb. Descendants of the original chickens are kept (alive and well fed) in a coop in the west transept.

The Road

Leaving town you cross over the mostly dried up río Oja. The bridge is a rebuilt version of Domingo’s original. 

City Map

Comments

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

Such nice people run this place, they make sure you have a lovely stay. They showed us to our room making sure we knew how things worked. Provided a map with the different locations in town.

The room was comfortable and provided everything we wanted. We only had breakfast here and it was excellent. We wished we had also done dinner.

The hotel is an old flour mill and part are still on display.

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

This is the best place I’ve stayed in so far. The hosts are the most warm and welcoming of all the hostels i’ve stayed in so far. The dinner was excellent quality made with love. They also offer a buffet breakfast. And the rooms are heated! Highly recommend if you need a quiet, nurturing place to spend the night.

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

Highly recommend El Molino de Floren in a renovated mill very close to the cathedral. Excellent dinner, great breakfast, nice room. Very welcoming hosts.

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

They have a good hike store in town in case you need something for the Camino

Camino de Sant…

We were really impressed with the hospitality and the fresh food (also vegetarian and vegan) of the restaurant WANDERLUST (Cale mayor 68, next to the cathedral).
The both restaurant owners found love for each other on their own camino and make it visual in lovely food.
Worth a visit!