Ribadiso da Carretera → 2.30 → Arzúa → 2.30km → Pregontoño

Altitude
385
To end of camino
38.50
ATM
Yes
Bar
Yes
Bus
Yes
Grocery
Yes
Medical Center
Yes
Pharmacy
Yes
Public Pool
Yes

Arzúa is a pleasant town with almost enough beds for pilgrims. If you find everything to be full and don’t feel like splurging on one of the many hotels in the area, the Polideportivo (sports hall) is often used to house pilgrims. Between here and O Pedrouzo lie a string of very small Galician hamlets of little note. The locals in these parts enjoy telling you, without the slightest tone of irony or sarcasm, that ‘no hay vacas in Galicia’ (there are no cows in Galicia). Hold that thought in your head while you slosh through a soggy trail on an otherwise sunny day.

Fiesta

Famous for its cheese, Arzúa hosts an annual (and three day long) Festival of Cheese in March. They have been doing so for 40 years. Apart from this and several other secular celbrations, Arzúa celebrates Corpus Christi, as well as Nuestra Señora del Carmen, who is celebrated on the 16th of July.

History

Tetilla Cheese: You might have seen this curiously shaped cheese in the shop windows. If you made a connection between the name and the shape you are not mistaken. It was shaped this way by cheese makers in protest to the bishop of Santiago. At the time the Portico de la Gloria (Master Mateo’s famous sculptures at the Cathedrals main entrance) was being finished and the bishop took issue with the odd smile on the prophet Daniels’ face. The clever bishop followed his gaze across the doorway and found that Queen Esther’s bosom was augmented by a cheeky sculptor. Daniel kept his smile, Esther had a reduction, and we got boob-shaped-protest-cheese.

The Road

The camino leaves Arzúa along a footpath, NOT the road. If you arrived at the main square, walk past the church (with your back to the road) and turn right onto the side street. The terrain is pleasant, a blend of trails and paved roads through small towns and lots of forests. There are a few steep sections but none of any considerable length.

Comments

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

It has both private rooms with private baths and others with shared services. Luis the owner & hispitalero is extremely kind and you will quickly understand that he is there mostly for the passion of meeting the peregrinos. The simple though impeccable facilities were just finished in April 2022 replacing a factory that was Luis’ long time previous successful business… Don’t miss the opportunity to ask him about it. His history will definitively be part of your Camino.

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

I can only assume that Michael’s description of Arzua as “pleasant” was meant to be ironic. It is essentially one long street with a lot of high speed traffic (with many lumber teucks( hurtling through it. The main square has a pleasant cafe, and the pizza restaurant mentioned by other pilgrims is a great place to eat. However the town itself is not attractive at all.

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

Very smart new pensión on Rua O Convento. Extremely well furnished, lovely big room, comfortable twin beds , huge bathroom with walk-in shower. Excellent towels and sheets.

Dinner, if you’re on half-board, is at Casa Teodora’s restaurant which is rated highly. Breakfast, €6 or included, is served in the small cafeteria with the usual options. A very classy place with WiFi and A/C as well. Recommended

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

There is a brand new Albergeu just few km before Arzúa on Camino del Norte in Casaldoeiro. Albergue is clean with only 12 beds in wooden “boxes” with curtains for privacy. There are two showers and two toilets. Albergue has a large garden. However there is no kitchen for pilgrims only a microwave. On the other hand hospitalero - Cesare - is super friendly and he runs a small restaurant with delicious meals for a reasonable price. In the price per night (15 €) small and basic breakfest is included (coffee, tea, marmalade, biscuits…). Overall strongly recommended.

michael

If you’re itching for a bit of luxury after weeks of walking, yeah, this is the spot. Best steak I’ve had in a long long time. Outrageous quality hospitality, comfortable bed and bedding (pillows that aren’t bricks!), heating was just too good, shower, etc etc. It’s no $6 Albergue.

michael

We stayed at Pension Luis - in a lovely private room in a central location - though a bit more expensive than most places we stayed. The town square in Arzúa is great for people watching, we were just sad to have missed the annual cheese festival the weekend before. Try all the cheese while in town!

michael

The last 3 kilometers are up a long long hill!

michael

I stayed in Arzúa two nights to rest up, and ate both nights at Il Fornaccio. If you’re tired of the typical Spanish fare or want multiple vegetarian options, I definitely recommend this pizza place!

michael

I found this town had quite heavy traffic, lots of trucks driving across town.