Camino Frances

To end of camino






Medical Center
Public Pool

Portomarín holds the distinction of being the newest oldest town along the camino. The Portomarín we see today is a transplanted version of the original town that originally settled in the valley below. Most of the town is new construction, but the church and a few smaller buildings were relocated stone by stone. Close inspection of the Iglesia de San Juan shows that the stones were numbered to avoid head scratching later.

The río Miño was dammed in 1956, forming the Embalse de Belasar which sits beneath the bridge. The water level varies by season, and when it is at its lowest it is possible to walk among the piles of stone that were once the original town.

The Iglesia of San Juan (also known as the Iglesia of San Nicolás) is an imposing fortress in the center of town. It is the largest single-nave Romanesque church in Galicia. The Ayuntamiento building in the main square was once the Casa del Conde from the 16th century. The Iglesia de Santa María (also known as La Virgen de las Nieves) is the chapel that you passed under at the top of the stairs going into town; the local people believe that it will protect them from drowning.


Be aware of high-speed traffic as you are required to cross back and forth across the main road. 


Portomarín gets its name from ‘porto’ or river crossing, and ‘marín’, a reference to the Sanctuary of St. Marina that was located here in the Middle Ages. It enjoyed its peak of prosperity in the 15th and 16th centuries when several of the Catholic Monarchs slept here. The nearby capital of Lugo, also a Roman settlement, grew at a greater pace and Portomarín was quickly forgotten. As recently as 1919 the town was still not connected by a single road that could accommodate wheeled traffic. That has changed, and the prosperity of the town can now be attributed to the reservoir and the camino.

The Road

From the square simply head downhill along the colonnaded street and stick to it until you arrive at the main road. DO NOT keep going straight. Rather turn left and head back in the direction of the bridge into town. Before you get there arrows will direct you onto a different bridge over a small river that feeds the reservoir.

At the end of the bridge are two options: TURN RIGHT.

From here it is a steadily uphill march all the way to Gonzar, passing Toxibo with its hórreo along the way. After passing through a stretch of forest the camino returns to the main road and parallels it on a gravel track. This track crosses back and forth over the main road on several occasions. Be mindful of traffic here, particularly during the morning hours when the area can be thick with fog.

City Map


All Caminos App User

I had a lovely stay here. Room was spacious and very modern. Super comfy bed and hot showers, more importantly quiet. Conveniently located in the bars/restaurants hub.

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I splurged for a solo room (70 euro) and have no hot water. The staff is totally indifferent (“it’s not our fault”). No apology, no “have a free glass of wine while we call somebody.”

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When leaving Portomarin, after the bridge you can turn right for the shorter but steeper climb to the top or left for the easier but longer climb which will take you past the church of San Roque.

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Pilgrim’s Mass Monday-Saturday at 8:00 pm.
Mass on Sunday at 12:30 pm, no Pilgrim’s Mass.

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Since I don’t speak Spanish, a friend kindly helped me arrange a foot massage in Portomarín at Centro de Masajes y Osteopatia Nuria Cid just 5 min walk from the municipal albergue. The massage was great and she taped in my feet and ancles (they were very inflamed). It took 30 min and cost me €30. Best money spent in Portomarin.
Google them and write via WhatsApp if you need to book.

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Don’t go up the steps after the bridge if you’re not going to the town!

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Do not stay here if you want to sleep. Quiet hours START at 11. Party City.

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As suggested here, delicious food from really lovely owner. Nice change from regular pilgrim menus.

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The earlier post I talked about taking the second route for Segundo route into Portomarin because of the highway. But it is a very steep decline on the secondary route. And you would do better to walk on the highway than to take that steep decline if you have a problem with your knees.

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New place as of September 2021. Italian street food. It is called ¡Slurp! and they have salads made to order. Totally outstanding owner from Milan. I miss having a large vegetable selection at restaurants on the Camino. This place fixed that.