Burgos

Camino Frances

To end of camino
483.8
Altitude
868

Castañares

7.10

Burgos

11.20

Tardajos

Services
ATM
Yes
Bar
Yes
Bus
Yes
Bus Terminal
Yes
Correos
Plaza Conde de Castro 1, 09002, Mon-Fri: 0830-2030 & Sat: 0930-1300, 947 256 597
Grocery
Yes
Medical Center
Yes
Pharmacy
Yes
Public Pool
Yes
Train
Yes

Burgos is a city that brings history to life. For many pilgrims it is the first place on the Camino Francés that beckons a two-night stay; and rightly so, Burgos has a tremendous amount of museums, churches, one cathedral, a few monasteries, and a healthy (or not) number of bars and restaurants to keep you busy.  The Calle San Lorenzo, off the Plaza Mayor, has several good options for tapas, and the Plaza Huerto del Rey has a few restaurants that lean towards a carnivorous diet.

On the not to miss list are the Catedral y Museo de Burgos in the very center of the city, and the Castillo de Burgos perched on the hillside overlooking the town.

The Museum of Human Evolution houses the artifacts from Atapuerca, and the Arco de Santa María (free visit) houses an exhibition hall.

The markings on southern entrance to the Plaza Mayor, with associated dates, indicated flood water levels.

Notice

Once at the far end of Burgos be wary of misleading signs (some quite official looking) that point the way to Villabilla. That town has been severed from camino traffic by the construction of a rail track and some efforts have been made to surreptitiously reconnect it. 

Fiesta

With such a long history it should come as no surprise that the fiestas and festivals celebrated in Burgos range from solemn to spectacular. Among the more notable celebrations are the processions of Semana Santa (Holy Week), Corpus Christi (a moveable feast, celebrated on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, which depends on Pentecost Sunday, which of course depends on Easter Sunday… the place to be is at the Monastery of Las Huelgas), and the festival of San Pedro and San Pablo (known together as Sampedros) in June.

Additionally, there are a number of more archaic events, some Moorish in origin and others pagan, that take place throughout the year. Burgos is a lively city.

History

Burgos was originally founded at the end of the 9th century in a bid to repopulate these northern plains.  From the expulsions of the Muslims (around the end of the 11th century) it quickly became one of Castilla’s most important city. It was here that the Catholic Kings Isabel and Ferdinand welcomed home Christopher Columbus after his second voyage to the new world, and it was here where General Francisco Franco was publicly proclaimed as Generalísimo in 1936 and which would serve as the dictators base of operations until the end of the civil war.

Set along the wonderful río Arlanzon, the city was built with massive walls and even more massive gates. In spite of this, the territory of Burgos (but more to the point Castilla) was widely disputed. The seed for much of the fighting was the will of King Fernando-I, who although wise enough to rule over the northern regions, was not too clever in managing his estate. He chose to divide the north into three regions upon his death, with each region going to a different heir.

Alfonso VI received León, García received Galicia, Sancho II received Castilla, and his daughter Urraca received the city of Zamora.

More land disputes followed and in the end it was Alfonso that reigned over the whole territory and was crowned the emperor of the Iberian Peninsula. This was at the end of 11th century, and the wealth collected by Alfonso from tariffs throughout the peninsula was transformed into palaces and a Cathedral, catapulting Burgos into prosperity.

Burgos is also the home of El Cid, a fierce warrior, and cunning politician. He was banished from the city by King Alfonso for having forced him to take an oath attesting to his innocence in the death of his brother Sancho. El Cid would eventually turn down an invitation to return and fight for Alfonso, and instead traveled east to Valencia where he maneuvered himself into a kingdom of his own. He is now buried in the Cathedral.

The Road

The road out of Burgos is, thankfully, much shorter than the road in. The camino from here enters the meseta, with its endless plains of wheat. The landscape, while seemingly unremarkable, offers a wealth of flora and fauna and opportunities for peaceful contemplation. Do not underestimate it, for this is where the second third of the camino begins, the part of the camino which tones your mind (now that your body is strong).

Comments

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

Mudán Masajes Orientales Burgos
C. Vitoria 27a, #410, Burgos
+34 660 31 66 44

My husband and I both splurged on a massage. Patricia payed special attention the the areas where we were sore and also offered great advice. Her husband also offers acupuncture. I would highly recommend. We paid 40 euros for a 50 minute massage

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

They sweep everyone out promptly at 8am, but the municipal albergue is gorgeous. Divided room similar to Roncesvalles, but with more showers. Stayed in Hostal Lar as well - clean and comfortable private room, with late checkout at 12

Camino de Sant…

Very comfortable place, easy booking and check in “, close to everything.
Call and reserve. Got a room for 50 euros when booking.com was showing 70+ euros.
Great hot shower, very comfortable bedroom

Camino de Sant…

This is not on the list but is well located, a great value, very modern clean and comfortable. We paid 61 euro for a double with en suite bath.

Camino de Sant…

Thankful for the recommendations here for Happy Hostal Carrales. Stayed for two nights to get a rest day in March 2022. Best shower of the Camino so far - rain style, warm, strong, fluffy towel. Excellent location, everything clean and crisp, quiet. Bed is not great, par for the course for the Camino.

Camino de Sant…

Sept 2020 i stayed in a place called happy hostel Corrales. Being a hostel it had private rooms but a shared single bathroom. Also a bit more pricey than being a dorm albergue, but it was a nice comfy night. Very nice and powerful shower!!

Camino de Sant…

If you are in need of a massage, I highly recommend Ultreia!
Absolutely perfect for pilgrims and right in the centre of the city. The lady is a Doctor if Osteopathy so can also do adjustments if you would like them, otherwise she offers the most relaxing and muscle unwinding massage!
€25 for half an hour or €50 for an hour.
Contact +34 675 28 29 44
I had an hour and it was the best money I’ve spent!
Feet, legs back and front, back, neck, shoulders and arms! Everything you need by this time when you’ve walked 300kms!
-Sophie (31/08/2019)

Camino de Sant…

I stayed one night at the HAPPY HOSTAL CARRALES which is not listed here but was simply wonderful. It felt more like a hotel rather than a hostal. Its brand new. It is bit pricey, I got a double room (they had no single rooms left) for EUR 40.- but was so happy I treated myself. The BEST SHOWER EVER!!! And its only a 7min walk to Cathedral. Very quite. Really recommend.

Camino de Sant…

I followed the recommendation of Happy Hostal Carrrales and I am very happy. The clerk went out of his way to help me get train tickets and also provided very useful info for my time in Burgos.

Camino de Sant…

For all you vegan / vegetarian pilgrims or those simply seeking a less carnivorous option on the Camino, Curcuma Green Foods on Calle La Puebla offer delicious plant based dining. Wonderful ambience and friendly staff. Open all day Monday to Saturday.