This guide is the product of a collaboration of pilgrims. It is based loosely on the 2010 CSJ guide authored by Rebekah Scott and myself, and the last half-decade has been maintained by Laurie Reynolds based on her own experiences as well as the experiences of several pilgrims who have shared their knowledge in the Camino de Santiago Forums.

It is the first in a series of guidebook/apps to the tertiary routes to Santiago, crowd written and community-sourced.

4.00km → Pumares
To end of camino: 
228.20
Altitudine: 
372

The bridge over the river which you crossed to get to Quereño marks your arrival in Galicia.This is a curious town full of people who mean well but do not likely know the land outside of town. You enter town after passing over a bridge and under the train tracks and are immediately faced with a barrage of arrows pointing left, straight, and right. The arrows are all sorts of colors, and the locals will tell you that some are from a recent construction job in the area.

Il cammino: 

As you come back close to the RR tracks (having completed the upside down U), you then will make a relatively sharp right turn to go up a hill to cross the tracks. At that spot, there is frequently a loud barking dog on a chain that takes him to the very edge of the owner’s property (reported...

Photo of Quereño on the Camino de Santiago
1.60km → Nogueiras
To end of camino: 
224.20
Altitudine: 
368

A few well cared-for and maybe dozens of cats. Natural spring fountain, tasty and cold. No services.

You walk through the abandoned houses village of Nogueira, mainly in ruins. Some signs have been placed to welcome you, and a statue of Mary is a recent addition. Several local women told me they walked to say a few prayers there every morning.

Il cammino: 

On the way from Pumares into Sobradelo, you will be walking for quite a long time on a high path that has shale cliffs and wildflowers on the right side, and a very long way down to tree tops, railroad tracks, and the río Sil on the left side. It is a wide path, though...

3.70km → Sobradelo
To end of camino: 
222.60
Altitudine: 
368

A pile of ruins along the train track.

2.30km → Éntoma
To end of camino: 
218.90
Altitudine: 
359

Sobradelo is built on a fairly steep hill, with an ice cream kiosk, pharmacies, shops, train station, bars, banks, health center, and a swimming pool.

About five or ten minutes after entering town, you will come to the Centro Social Pontenova, whose bar is open to the public. Nice eating area out back, very good menu del día at 9€. On the 10th of each month, coinciding with the big market day in town, the centro serves a special 12€ meal featuring pulpo.

Bar Mar is just a couple of buildings down from the Centro Social, on the...

Il cammino: 

No matter which branch of the Calle de Éntoma you have taken, you will ascend and reach the OU-0801 road, which takes you out of Sobradelo. This road does go all the way to O Barco, but the Camino will take you off the highway onto more scenic trails...

To end of camino: 
216.60
Altitudine: 
352

Wind your way through this pretty, but small, place (well-marked). There is a striking metal sculpture made out of agricultural hoes, which bids pilgrims a Buen Camino. Beautiful old bridge, great for rest stop. The bar, Bar Martillo, has a terrace (reportedly opens at noon). It is closed on Monday.

Storia: 

On May 21,1806, a woman of humble origin, from the town of Santa Marina del Rey (León province), gave birth in Éntoma. She was baptized in the local church and described as a pilgrim on her way home from Santiago.

Il cammino: 

As you leave the hamlet, the Camino takes you up through a forest with pine trees, a few chestnut trees, some cherry trees, some vineyards.

You soon arrive in O Barco’s outskirts and back on the OU-0801. From here, it is at least a half hour into the center, with...

5.20km → Arcos
To end of camino: 
211.70
Altitudine: 
329

All the services you could want are in this town, and the local wine is remarkably good! Those who wish to stay at the albergue of Xagoaza should stop in town to stock up on provisions, as the albergue is in a village 3 km outside O Barco and 1.4 km off the trail. It has no services, but the hospitalera may provide a meal.

O Barco is a long, narrow town, strung out along the river. Hostals and pensions are plentiful (turgalicia.com lists 11 of them).

Wifi, restaurants, bakeries, and bars aplenty in the downtown area. O Barco is the center of the...

Attenzione: 

NOTE: The new albergue of Xagoaza is not actually in O Barco, but rather 3.5km out of town to the north. If you wish to stay, contact Gloria at 639 921 679 for her to open up.

Il cammino: 

Leave O Barco on the river walk. After you pass the cafés, parks, and playgrounds, you will come to a small wooden footbridge with two freshly painted arrows. This bridge does not take you across the river itself; it takes you over a small tributary emptying into the river. The path is...

Accommodation in O Barco de Valdeorras

Xunta

1

Albergue de Peregrinos Xagoaza
Xunta

20
8€
Polideportivo

2

Polideportivo de O Barco
Polideportivo
Galicia
Pension

3

Pensión do Lar
Pension
Penas Forcadas, 26

4

Pensión La Gran Tortuga
Pension
Rua CONDE FENOSA, 34

5

Pensión Aurum Valdeorras
Pension
Xirimil, 3
Hostal

6

Hostal Mayo
Hostal
Eulogio Fernández, 70

Booking.com
Camino de Santiago Accommodation: Hostal Mayo
Hotel

7

Hotel Pazo do Castro ⭑⭑⭑⭑
Hotel
Vila do Castro

Booking.com
Camino de Santiago Accommodation: Hotel Pazo do Castro ⭑⭑⭑⭑
To end of camino: 
0.00
Il cammino: 

This route was the actual Camino route until a couple of years ago, before the riverside route was marked. Take it only if you plan to spend the night at the very highly recommended albergue in Xagoaza. I am not sure if the route is still marked through the town of O Barco, but...

To end of camino: 
206.50
Altitudine: 
326

Still on the access road, you can see the big Hotel Paladium complex on the hill above you. Soon you cross the railroad tracks and arrive in the outskirts of Vilamartín.

Before Vilamartín, the Pensión Restaurante A Lastra is on the highway. Tel. 988 300 232. This place is not on the Camino but not far away on the N-120.

Il cammino: 

Keep on the camino which follows the N-120 and train tracks, following parallel to the river all the way to Vilamartin.

Accommodation in Arcos

Hotel

1

Hotel Calzada
Hotel
Calzada, 1

Booking.com
Camino de Santiago Accommodation: Hotel Calzada
To end of camino: 
203.40
Altitudine: 
404

Restaurants, hostals, and a municipal albergue. To reach the town turn right at the little bridge underpass at the entrance to the town. Bar el Castillo, reached by a short detour under the bridge, opens at 11 a.m.
Municipal albergue is straight ahead along the river. It may be hard to find the building, because there are no signs identifying it from the side the camino passes. It is the second to last building on the Sil waterfront, and is close to a small football field and open-air swimming pool.

Hostal-Restaurant Marbella, Calle Cervantes 32. About 500 m...

Storia: 

Vilamartín also has a documented old Camino story. According to the parish archives, in 1712, a peregrina on her way to Santiago died and was buried underneath the “Puertas del Sol” at the church of San Jorge. The note indicates that because she was poor, there was no charge...

Il cammino: 

From Vilamartín, the Camino continues along the riverside, past the dam and spillway of the Embalse de Santiago, with views over vineyards, bee boxes, quarries, and tree farms, and a skyful of circling birds of prey. At the dam, you cross over the railroad tracks and go left....

Accommodation in Vilamartín de Valdeorras

Xunta

1

Albergue de Vilamartín
Xunta

8€
Hostal

2

Hostal Marbella
Hostal
Miguel de Cervantes, 32
Photo of Vilamartín de Valdeorras on the Camino de Santiago
7.10km → Alvaredos
To end of camino: 
197.60
Altitudine: 
308

All services, including a tourist office with sello, often staffed by members of the local Camino Amigos group. In A Rúa are restaurants, markets, wineries, and accommodation. Be sure to stock up for the next day’s walk.
In 2018, we learned that the Association is working to get government permits to renovate an old school for an in-town albergue to replace what had for year’s been an albergue in the home of the local association president. That albergue, Casa Asún, is no longer taking in pilgrims. No recent information on the progress of the albergue plans.

...

Attenzione: 

From A Rúa to Quiroga there are not many services. Carry extra water and food. Fountains have been reported in four spots: one just past Alberedos; one at Montefurado, and two in Bendilló (one is at the entrance to the village and the other is in...

Il cammino: 

Leave A Rúa by climbing up Calle Currelada to the church of Our Lady of Fátima (look for the slate-roofed twin towers. Contrary to local tales, the church was not designed by Gaudi!) and head for the N-120 road. Arrows take you to the right and lead beneath the...

Accommodation in A Rúa de Valdeorras

Polideportivo

1

Polideportivo de Rua de Valdeorras
Polideportivo
Casa Rural

2

Casa Rural Pacio do Sil
Casa Rural
Xestal, 33

Booking.com
Camino de Santiago Accommodation: Casa Rural Pacio do Sil
Pension

3

Pensión Fabio
Pension
Progreso, 202
Hostal

4

Hostal Niza
Hostal
Dr. Vila, 30
Photo of A Rúa de Valdeorras on the Camino de Santiago
Photo of A Rúa de Valdeorras on the Camino de Santiago
To end of camino: 
190.50
Altitudine: 
241

Small town just beyond the provincial border of Ourense and Lugo. Keep a sharp lookout for the waymarks, they lead back to the LU-933. The Lugo line is where the Ribeira Sacra, or Holy River Bank, region begins. Some say the holiness came from the many monasteries along the riverbanks; Ramón Pérez cites others who believe the oak trees so abundant here were sacred to Celtic tribes, and later speakers confused roble (oak) with ribeira (river bank).

Lovers of Galician rural culture and panoramic vistas will enjoy the long, switchback ascent...

Il cammino: 

Follow along the river, keeping an eye out for the many bee-keeping complexes that have populated this valley for two millennia. Around a bend in the road the Camino enters Montefurado.

1.00km → Hermidon
To end of camino: 
187.70
Altitudine: 
241

Twenty people live here now, but the monumental 18th century Iglesia de San Michael was built for hundreds. Montefurado is a testament to glories long past, when this town was a crossroads for carters carrying ore, honey, wine, and vines from here to all parts of Spain. Evidence of even older importance can be seen farther along the river valley, where a smaller set of exposed mountain innards and a hole blown through a riverside rock-face are remnants of more 2nd-century Roman ingenuity: the miners shifted the course of the río Sil in their search for gold. The...

Il cammino: 

Using the Train to Create Short Stages.

If your intention is to divide the approximately 40 km between O Barco and Quiroga, and if you also want to stop in A Rúa (a mere 14 km from O Barco), here is one way to divide the two stages more...

5.60km → Bendillo
To end of camino: 
186.70
Altitudine: 
241
2.40km → Soldón
To end of camino: 
179.90
Altitudine: 
241
Il cammino: 

As you enter Bendilló, you will see a community olive-press, and the Ermita das Farrapas. At this point, you are still 1.5 km from the church in town. Turn right here and go up through Bendilló. Go through town and then down steeply on a dirt track towards the national...

1.90km → Sequeiros
To end of camino: 
177.50
Altitudine: 
241

Descend to the edge of the river town of Soldón. Arrows will take you through and out of town and past a riverside café or chiringüito (with very seasonal hours) which is located under the elevated national highway. If you walk in high season, the café will be open into the night. Great place for a snack, cold drink, and a swim.

You may have trouble finding the arrows through town. Just remember that the Camino will cross the river under the elevated highway, which is quite easy to find.
The owner of the tourist apartments El Molino de Soldón, which...

Il cammino: 

Cross the bridge over the river, then turn left and keep straight on.

At the next fork, go right and up to the highway (going left will take you down to the river and the railroad tracks). This road takes you to the N-120, where you will walk on the left grassy shoulder...

1.00km → Novais
To end of camino: 
175.60
Altitudine: 
241
2.40km → Caspedro
To end of camino: 
174.60
Altitudine: 
241
2.20km → Quiroga
To end of camino: 
172.40
Altitudine: 
241
To end of camino: 
0.00

In the hamlet of Caspedro, a turn off will take you to the “monumental complex” of Quiroga’s pilgrim hospital, which looks to be within a km or two from the Camino.  In Caspedro, just before reaching Quiroga, the old pilgrimage path went to the important Romanesque church of San Salvador. Other monuments at the site include the House of the Knights, a sixteenth century manor house; and the Tower House Hospital, also from the sixteenth century. If you take this detour, please report back!

Il cammino: 

DETOUR BEFORE QUIROGA TO VISIT THE PILGRIM HOSPITAL.

In the hamlet of Caspedro, a turn off will take you to the “monumental complex” of Quiroga’s pilgrim hospital, which looks to be within a km or two from the Camino. In Caspedro, just before reaching Quiroga, the old pilgrimage path went...

2.40km → Espandariz
To end of camino: 
170.20
Altitudine: 
266

Quiroga is located in a beautiful valley of vineyards and orchards. All services.

Lots of cafés and restaurants. The one Quiroga eatery that receives consistently high praise is the Restaurante Aroza. It is off the main street and near the Plaza Mayor. Their menu del día at 10€ with good wine included is a bargain. Their tapas are also excellent. Closed on Sunday evenings.

For breakfast, the Panadería Marisa opposite the albergue opens at 8 am.
            
For the next day’s walk, your choice is to go from Quiroga to A...

Attenzione: 

Bring water. There are two fountains before A Pobra, one in Carballo do Lor, and the other in Castroncelos, which is practically in A Pobra do Brollón. The trail from Quiroga to Monforte de Lemos is long, and services are short along the way...

Il cammino: 

Leave Quiroga following the waymarks westward along the main street. Cross under the N-120 and follow the country lane (LU-933) paralleling the river. The arrows take you across the river on a bridge (keep going straight if you don’t want to go through...

Accommodation in Quiroga

Municipal

1

Albergue de Quiroga
Municipal
Real, 118

10€
Casa Rural

2

Casa do Parral
Casa Rural
Carretera de Caurel
Hostal

3

Hostal Quiper
Hostal
Real, 62

4

Hostal Dimar
Hostal
Camilo José Cela, 14

5

Hostal Dimar
Hostal
Camilo José Cela, 14
Hotel

6

Hotel Remansiño
Hotel
Ricobao
Photo of Quiroga on the Camino de Santiago
1.20km → Noceda
To end of camino: 
167.80
Altitudine: 
241
To end of camino: 
166.60
Altitudine: 
266
Photo of Noceda on the Camino de Santiago
Photo of Noceda on the Camino de Santiago
To end of camino: 
157.10
Altitudine: 
469
5.50km → Castroncelos
To end of camino: 
155.20
Altitudine: 
298

For food, drink, or a bed, the Pensión Pacita is a short walk off the Camino. Casa Pacita, tel. 982 430 008. It is located on the LU-933. To get there, turn left after crossing the bridge in Barxa and follow the river. (Prominent sign had been placed there in summer 2019). Highly recommended by pilgrims. Singles 20€, doubles 30€; meals also served.

Il cammino: 

There is a sign posted in A Ponte, which illustrates the way to Monforte. There are various routes in these parts, and although most of them will eventually lead you to Castroncelos, only one of them is well marked.

Shortly

...
Photo of Barxa do Lor / Ponte on the Camino de Santiago
To end of camino: 
149.70
Altitudine: 
507
3.30km → Cereixa
To end of camino: 
147.80
Altitudine: 
387

The closure of Hostal As Viñas in Pobra was not welcome news for pilgrims. Yet for those who do not want to walk the 35 km from Quiroga to Monforte, there are several current options for lodging in or near Pobra de Brollón:

1. The polideportivo

2.There are several casas rurales and a hotel in Salcedo, about 3.5 km off camino. All under one management. http://www.turismoruralensalcedo.net/
Casas Rurales A Salanova AND Hotel O Forno, Tel. 982 430 501 OR 619 813 834. The owner is happy to provide transportation to and from the camino at...

Il cammino: 

To leave A Pobra, the mojón taking you out of town is right next to the big Guardia Civil (national police) building, with its motto “Todo por la Patria” (everything for the homeland). You are soon on a beautiful green track, which comes out to the road paralleling the river – turn...

5.00km → Reigada
To end of camino: 
144.50
Altitudine: 
326
To end of camino: 
139.50
Altitudine: 
326
3.70km → A Vide
To end of camino: 
135.00
Altitudine: 
297

Monforte offers attractions to lovers of history, art, and architecture. Top of the list is the Colegio Nuestra Señora de la Antigua (also known locally as the Colegio de los Escolapios), an austere renaissance monastery, which currently houses a K-12 school. Tours of the rest of the monastery are 3€, at noon and 4 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday. Two El Grecos dominate the little art gallery; the dome of the church is breathtaking, a startling change after days of wide-open sky.

The railway museum is reported to be fascinating for English train...

Attenzione: 

If your next stage is the 29 km to Chantada, make sure to save time to stock up on food and drink here in Monforte. It’s a long stage with little in the way of services.

Il cammino: 

Between these two towns, the only accommodation is in casas rurales. They include: the Michelin-listed La Rectoral de Castillon http://www.rectoraldecastillon.com/ Tel. 982 455 415, which is about 10 km from Monforte; Torre Vilarino http://www.torrevilarino.com/ , Tel...

Accommodation in Monforte de Lemos

Pension

1

Pensión Miño
Pension
Conde, 25
Hostal

2

Hostal MON ComeySueña
Hostal
Roberto Baamonde, 30

Booking.com
Camino de Santiago Accommodation: Hostal MON ComeySueña

3

Hostal Medievo
Hostal
Compañía, 21

Booking.com

4

Hostal Puente Romano
Hostal
Puente del Malecón

5

Hostal OhLaLa Galicia
Hostal
Rosalía de Castro, 24

Booking.com
Hotel

6

Hotel Puente Romano
Hotel
Plaza del Malecón

7

⭑⭑⭑Hotel Ribeira Sacra
Hotel
Conde, 17

Booking.com
Photo in Hotel Ribeira Sacra on the Camino de Santiago

8

Hotel Terra Galega
Hotel
Chantada

9

Hotel Cardenal
Hotel
Huertas, 36

Booking.com
Camino de Santiago Accommodation: Hotel Cardenal
Parador

10

Hotel Parador de Monforte de Lemos ⭑⭑⭑⭑
Parador
Plaza Luis de Góngora y Agorte

Booking.com
Camino de Santiago Accommodation: Hotel Parador de Monforte de Lemos ⭑⭑⭑⭑
Photo of Monforte de Lemos on the Camino de Santiago
Photo of Monforte de Lemos on the Camino de Santiago
To end of camino: 
131.30
Altitudine: 
290
Il cammino: 

The camino is very well marked leaving A Vide, and off-road alternatives have been closed. Stay on an asphalt road that takes you to the Pazo O Reguengo, passing through Broza. This is another asphalt stretch, about 2.5 km., but with the noble old pazo (farm...

Photo of A Vide  on the Camino de Santiago
Photo of A Vide  on the Camino de Santiago
1.10km → A Broza
To end of camino: 
128.00
Altitudine: 
290
3.00km → Piñeiro
To end of camino: 
126.90
Altitudine: 
290
1.20km → O Camiño Grande
To end of camino: 
123.90
Altitudine: 
290
Il cammino: 

At the fountain of Piñeiro, the water is sweet, delicious, and welcome. This is a great picnic spot. If you plan to stay at La Rectoral de Castillón casa rural (a splendid option at a good price) this is the place to phone Rosa, the proprietor, and ask for a ride. The inn is...

2.00km → A Barxa
To end of camino: 
122.70
Altitudine: 
290

Casa Rural Torre Vilariño. http://www.torrevilarino.com/ Very highly recommended, with Camino-friendly staff; pilgrim price for room is 20€ each. Swimming pool; menú del día 15€, pilgrim menú, 10€. Also would be a good lunch or coffee break for pilgrims doing the entire Monforte-Chantada stage. Tel. 982 45 22 60. You can also WhatsApp Susana at 640 10 46 27. Restaurant closed on Wednesdays, except in summer (mid-June through mid-September).

From the Torre Vilariño, there is a marvelous 6 km circle walk that takes you to some amazing viewing spots of bends in the Miño River....

Il cammino: 

From the mojón in Camiño Grande, you enter a new concello of O Savinao. Then at a cross-roads with numerous signs, the Camino goes on the LU-P-5807 straight ahead to Fión. You will see the road marker for km 0, indicating that this is the...

1.40km → Fión
To end of camino: 
120.70
Altitudine: 
290
2.70km → Sobrado
To end of camino: 
119.30
Altitudine: 
290

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