The Vía de la Plata / CAMINO SANABRÉS
in GALICIA
From Seixalbo and the Capela Santa Ádega, the camino descends towards Ourense, either along the main road or a side road. It eventually reaches a large PEUGEOT car dealership. STOP.
The official camino from here is along the road more or less straight into the center...
Though not marked with yellow arrows, this river walk is easy to follow and is used by locals out on a walk. It follows both sides of the river but since you will need to exit to the east it is best to stick to the right bank.
The route requires a road crossing (the river runs under the road) near the Ford factory but the river path resumes once on the other side.
From the Ford factory the river walk passes under 5 bridges, and after the 5th one, it becomes a boardwalk for a short distance. At the 6th crossing (all overhead) it is time to turn right and away from the river....
Ourense’s everlasting tourist attraction is its natural thermal spas. It is said that the Romans settled here because of the warm waters, though more likely is the strategic location along the Río Miño and the gold within it.
The spas are still open to the public, some are free and others are not. Surprisingly, the free ones are the best but come prepared in a proper bathing suit or expect to be turned away. The ones closest to the city center are the Termas Chavasqueira, across the river and to the west.
If all of that sounds like too much trouble (it's not...
Just beyond the río the camino again splits. Here again the arrows leave a bit to be desired, there is only one set of arrows to indicate the split. They are painted on the sidewalk and are fading.
Here is how to find the way:
Once over the Río Miño keep to the right side of...
Accommodation in Ourense
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Albergue de peregrinos de Ourense Xunta
Barreira 12
42 8€ |
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Albergue Augas Quentes Private
Vicente Risco, 34
36 15€ Booking.com |
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3 |
Albergue Grelo Hostel Private
Peña Trevinca 40
32 15*€ |
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4 |
Hostal La Rotonda ⭑ Hostal
Marín, 41
Booking.com |
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5 |
Hotel Altiana ⭑⭑ Hotel
Ervedelo, 14
Booking.com |
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6 |
Hotel Carris Cardenal Quevedo ⭑⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Cardenal Quevedo 28-30
Booking.com |
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7 |
Hotel Irixo ⭑ Hotel
Hermanos Villar, 15
Booking.com |
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8 |
Hotel Zarampallo ⭑ Hotel
San Miguel, 9
Booking.com |
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9 |
Hotel Mabú ⭑ Hotel
Ctra. de Vigo, 39
Booking.com |
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Vía de la Plata Map 29
Just beyond the río the camino again splits. Here again the arrows leave a bit to be desired, there is only one set of arrows to indicate the split. They are painted on the sidewalk and are fading.
Here is how to find the way:
Once over the Río Miño keep to the right side of...
After crossing over the main road through Cudeiro the camino continues to climb. It passes several hamlets along the way and eventually returns to the N-525 (which wound around the mountain). It crosses the road and shortly after turns right to enter Tamallancos via a back road....
From Tamallancos the camino follows loosely the N-525 to Casas Novas, but seldom directly on it. It passes through the hamlets of Bouzas (bar) (0.7km), Sobreira (bar) (3.7km), and Viduedo (bar, shop) (1.5km).
In Quintela, opposite the Bodegas Arnoya, the camino leaves the main road for a smaller one to the right following the signs towards Castro de Beiro. Keep on this road. The camino passes underneath the high-flying AVE bridge and then arrives at the original railway line. The...
The bar, Casa César, is run by another familiar face on the camino and is a rather informal affair.
The old part of town is an ancient knot of confusion but somehow it is impossible to get too lost. Every other building seems to have a legacy as a bakery (a few remain) and there are a few hórreos still standing.
There are about 17 bakeries in this small village, and the locals tell of a time when there were closer to 50! They all produce the same Pan de Cea, the only bread in Galicia which is protected and monitored for quality in the same way that wines have a D.O. By definition, all of the...
The camino crosses the main road and heads uphill towards a sporting facility. Around the back side of the building, the camino once again splits into two distinct routes. Here the choice is a bit more complicated than the previous option. The two options merge in Castro-Dozón.
Accommodation in Cea
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Albergue de peregrinos de Cea Xunta
Santo Cristo
40 8€ |
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2 |
Casa Mañoso Casa Rural
Campo da Feira, 6
Booking.com |
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The camino crosses the main road and heads uphill towards a sporting facility. Around the back side of the building, the camino once again splits into two distinct routes. Here the choice is a bit more complicated than the previous option. The two options merge in Castro-Dozón.
...
A sleepy hamlet with a new bar for pilgrims.
The camino follows the road out of Pielas, downhill to Oseira.
Oseira is hard to miss for the looming and massive Monasterio de Santa María de Oseira. It is well worth a visit. Built in the 12th century it was originally a Cistercian order of French monks. They stayed a surprisingly long time but like nearly every other religious order they...
The way out of Oseira is not along the road (though cyclists may prefer it for the more gentle grade) but rather up a steep track adjacent to the road with the restaurants.
It passes the hamlets of Vilarello (2km), O Outeiro (2.5k), Carballediña (1.5km), and...
Accommodation in Oseira
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1 |
Albergue del Monasterio de Oseira Parochial
Monasterio de Oseira
40 8€ |
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The albergue is located next to the municipal pool, on the west (left) side of the main road. If you plan to stay there, ignore the arrows which take you to the right along a byway (nothing more than a way to keep you off of the N-525). Keep to the left side of the road.
From Castro-Dozón the camino resumes its on-again-off-again dance with the N-525. It does so for about 4.5km. From there it veers left off of the N-525 and descends passing the hamlets of Puxallos (1.5km) and Pontenouf (2.3km). From there it climbs back up to the motorway,...
Accommodation in Castro-Dozón
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Albergue de peregrinos de Castro Dozón Xunta
Castro Dozón
30 8€ |
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Vía de la Plata Map 30
The camino continues its course through rural Galicia, through a number of ‘places’ along the way. A Eirexe (bar) (3.6km) is the only place for a stop.
Accommodation in Estación de Lalín
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Hostal A Taberna de Vento Hostal
Estación de Lalín
Booking.com |
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Meals available at a bar a bit further along the main road. Buses to Santiago from Ourense stop here.
At the albergue in A Laxe, the Camiño de Inverno joins the Camino Sanabrés. From here the Camino is well marked and well trodden to Santiago. The following towns and distances will give you all you need to plan your remaining days. The most obvious stages are from A Laxe to the albergue in Outeiro (34 km) and from there to Santiago (17 km, allowing for plenty of time to get to the pilgrims’ mass).
Shortly after leaving A Laxe, you will pass the Pazo de Bendoiro, a restored manor house with its spa treatments and swimming pool. Beautiful but pricey, single room with breakfast reported 63 € in 2019.
The camino takes you into the woods and ascends to a lovely old...
Accommodation in A Laxe
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Albergue de peregrinos de A Laxe Xunta
A Laxe, 21
28 8€ |
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