Best to avoid Villamayor del Rio. The smell of cow manure being transported in trucks was overwhelming all night and we stayed at a private albergue —not too friendly. But the highlight was dinner at Cafe Leon whose proprietor is a warm gentleman who is extremely knowledgeable about local history. In fact his restaurant contains a small museum of medieval artifacts. He went out of his way to give us a lovely non-pilgrim meal and gave us the grand tour—-most entertaining and a highly recommended stop. Mind you this was 2012, so things may have changed.