This is the sort of place where salty air mixes with cheerful rendezvous and pilgrim farewells. Pilgrimage to this point, the most westerly point of continental Europe, predates that of Santiago. As unique as this might make it, Finisterre has managed to maintain a low profile. The harbor restaurants, now enjoying their recently rebuilt environs, continue to do grilled sardines and pimientos de padron the way they always have.
Bus service returns to Santiago from in front of the municipal albergue several times daily and is easy to sort out. The schedule is posted at most albergues. Be mindful of the phrase "Enlace" which indicates a change in buses along the way and a potential delay when traffic is heavy. The drivers are serious fellows, and not very talkative. If you find yourself standing with a group of people on the side of the road, unsure of what is going on, be patient. If you are in more of a hurry, taxi service can get you back to Santiago as well.
Lastly, but perhaps most importantly, is a quick geography lesson. Contrary to perception, the walk to the lighthouse is actually Southerly. The beach approaching Finisterre, the Playa Langosteira (lobster), faces East. This puts the setting sun, and nostalgic glances towards home for North Americans, on the other side of the peninsula; a little over 1km from the municipal albergue. If you fancy a plunge into the Atlantic, naked or otherwise, the relatively private beach there will oblige... just sayin. If you go, be extremely mindful of the strong currents which will quickly pull you from the beach when the waves roll in. The beach is unmonitored.
The official certificate of completion, known as the Fisterrana, can be obtained at the Xunta albergue. You are advised to have all of your stamps in order, for they are on the lookout for anybody who might have taken the bus.
The biggest fiesta in Finisterre is Holy Week, when many thousands of Galicians descend on the village to take part in the celebrations and processions. If you plan to arrive during this time do book a room in advance. Nuestra Señora del Carmen is celebrated from the 8-10th of September.
The most famous son of Finisterre is simultaneously its most obscure. Alexandre Campos Ramírez, also known as Alejandro Finisterre, was a poet and inventor born here in 1919. He was injured in the battle for Madrid during the onset of the Spanish Civil War and was evacuated to the hospital in Montserrat. A similar fate had led Ignatius of Loyola to the same place 4 centuries earlier and although Alexandre didn’t go so far as to pen his own Spiritual Exercises he did manage to dream up the design for the first foosball table.
TO MUXÍA: The route to Muxía has grown up a bit over the last five years, but services along the 29km stretch way remain scarce. Lires and Frixe both have bars, and Lires has a few guesthouses if you wish to split the walk into two days.
To find the way to Muxía, head back along the road you came in on. At the cruceiro that marks the end of the beach stay on the road. It curves left at the cruceiro, and then curves right. Turn left (uphill) at the second street when you get to the first signs indicating the way. Between here and Muxía you will find the new markers installed in pairs and indicating the ways to Muxía and Finisterre, and you will also find double ended yellow arrows with M and F on either end.
The walk is along paved road from Finisterre to San Salvador, but from there it joins a gravel trail for most of the way, only joining paved surfaces as it passes through the smaller villages.
1 |
Albergue de Peregrinos de Fisterra Xunta 8€ 26 |
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2 |
Albergue Por Fin Private 12€ 11 Booking.com |
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3 |
Albergue O Encontro Private 12/15€ 5 Booking.com |
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4 |
Albergue Buen Camino de Sonia Private 12€ 50 Booking.com |
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5 |
Albergue Mar de Rostro Private 10-12€ 11 |
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6 |
Albergue de Paz Private 10€ 30 Booking.com |
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7 |
Albergue Oceanus Finisterre Private 14€ Booking.com |
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8 |
Albergue Arasolis Private 10€ 16 Booking.com |
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9 |
Albergue Finistellae Private 12€ 20 |
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10 |
Albergue La Espiral Private 12€ 12 Booking.com |
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11 |
Albergue Mar de Fora Private 10€ 38 Booking.com |
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12 |
Albergue do Sol e da Lúa Private 10€ 22 |
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13 |
Albergue Cabo da Vila Private 12€ 24 Booking.com |
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14 |
Pensión Mirador Fin da Terra ⭑⭑ Pension Booking.com |
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15 |
Pensión Cabo Pension Booking.com |
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16 |
Hostal Mariquito Hostal Booking.com |
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Hotel Naturaleza Mar da Ardora ⭑⭑ Hotel Booking.com |
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18 |
Hotel Áncora ⭑ Hotel Booking.com |
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19 |
Hotel Bela Fisterra ⭑⭑⭑ Hotel Booking.com |
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20 |
Hotel Cabo Finisterre ⭑ Hotel Booking.com |
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21 |
Hotel Playa Langosteira ⭑⭑⭑ Hotel Booking.com |
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22 |
Hotel Rústico Prado da Viña ⭑⭑ Hotel Booking.com |
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23 |
Hotel Mar de Fisterra ⭑ Hotel Booking.com |
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Comments
Camino de Santi... (not verified) said:
You'll see ads about town for massage by Mary Carmen 673160772, she's Opposite Hotel Ancora. Very good massage, professional but relaxed, helped recovery from the Camino. 1hr was €30 cash only.
Camino de Santi... (not verified) said:
The Fisterrana is no longer given at the Xunta albergue. It is now presented at the tourist information office a few blocks further along the Camino on the left.