Note that Peñasieta, AND the albergue, are not on the camino. Signs point the way and see the albergue notes on how to get a hold of the keys at the bar on the road.
From Peñasieta, the climb begins. The preferred, and more beautiful, route is along the trail so if you spent the night in Peñasieta avoid the temptation of following the road (even though it will get you there). The elevation gain is about 600...
Accommodation in Peñasieta
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Albergue de Peñaseita Municipal
Peñaseita
12 3€ |
Welcome to the top. Be mindful of the way down, which is poorly signed.
The best way is to keep the road, and the guard rail, to your left while following the curve in the road. It soon joins a track and descends into Montefurado.
Montefurado is largely abandoned, apart from a few still occupied houses. One of them has a tap you can use for drinking water but ask first as a courtesy. There is also a small chapel dedicated to Santiago.
Pass through town and follow the trail to your left. You will have to step over a small wall. When the trail rejoins the road (AS-14) a few km onward, you can either stay on the track or follow along the road to Lago.
Camino Primitivo Map 6
Just beyond town the camino again leaves the road in favor of a trail to your right. It will rejoin the road and then leave it again for a smaller side road to your left towards Berducedo.
The diminutive Berducedo is a common end of stage stopping point and is roughly halfway between Pola de Allande and Grandas de Salime.
The camino follows the road uphill for a quick ascent of about 80m and then descends another 100m into La Mesa.
Accommodation in Berducedo
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Albergue-Pensión Casa Marqués Private
Berducedo, 11
15 10€ |
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Albergue Camino Primitivo Private
Berducedo
18 12€ |
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Albergue Camin Antiguo Private
Berducedo
27 15€ |
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Casa de Aldea Araceli Casa Rural
Berducedo, 54
Booking.com |
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The new albergue in La Mesa also has a bar and restaurant, a welcome addition to this convenient stopping point.
Pay close attention to the arrows when leaving town, there are 4 roads not including the one you walked into town on. The camino follows the road steeply uphill all the way to Buspol.
Accommodation in La Mesa
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Albergue de peregrinos de La Mesa Municipal
Peñaseita
20 5€ |
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Albergue Miguelín Private
Peñaseita
20 15€ Booking.com |
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The Capilla de Santa Marina de Buspol is the only thing of note in Buspol. The weather here is frequently shrouded in a rainy mist which obscures views of the embalse (reservoir) below.
At the sharp curve in the road in Buspol, the camino finally leaves the road in favor of a mountain track.
NOTE: It is almost entirely downhill to the dam of the reservoir, a descent of over 750m and often very steep. Furthermore, the trail crisscrosses several...
Bar and Restaurant 1km from the dam on the way back up.
The hydroelectric dam here was built in the early 1950. The abandoned concrete structures on the north side of the dam are leftovers from its construction, which required that most of the materials (primarily the concrete) be produced on site.
What goes down must go up, in this case it is about 300m back up to Grandas de Salime. It is mostly, but not entirely, along the road. Along the way is a scenic overlook (about 2km from the dam). Shortly after the most severe turn in the road (a 180 degree bend) the camino turns left to...
Accommodation in Embalse de Salime
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Hotel Las Grandas Hotel
Vistalegre
Booking.com |
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Grandas de Salime is the largest town since Salas and offers enough bars and shopping to occupy your afternoon. The Iglesia de San Salvador stands at the center of town. There are several old manor homes scattered through the town, most of them dating from the 18th century. The gem of the town is the highly recommended Museo Etnográfico de Grandas de Salime, which has more objects in its collection than you could possibly lay your eyes on.
Nuestra Señora del Carmen is celebrated on the 2nd and 3rd of July. San Salvador is celebrated during the first weekend in August.
The camino leaves town along Calle Carmen and passes the Capilla de Carmen before joining the AS-28 highway for several parts; leaving and rejoining between towns on its way up to the alto that marks the border between Asturias and Galicia. There is one more...
Accommodation in Grandas de Salime
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Albergue de El Salvador (Grandas de Salime) Municipal
Costa, 20
28+20 6€ |
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Albergue Casa Sánchez Private
Dirección El Salvador
16 12€ |
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Albergue Porta de Grandas Private
Los Tilos, 3
26 15€ |
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Pensión Arreigada Pension
Pedro de Pedre, 9
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Hostal Occidente Hostal
Antonio Machado
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Hotel La Barra Hotel
Costa, 4
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Two bars in town, one in the town (Casa Federico, which is also a small shop) and one at the far end of town on the main road.
Just past the bar located on the main road the camino turns right to follow a quieter path. Between Cereijeira and Castro is the small Capilla de la Esperanza de Malneira.
Camino Primitivo Map 7
The ruins of a prehistoric settlement, the Castro de Chao Samartín, are visible to the west (right) of Castro when leaving town. There is a museum (adjacent to the camino) which offers guided visits to the bronze age settlement.
Accommodation in Castro
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Albergue Residencia Juvenil de Castro Private
Castro
16, and tents can be rented 13€ |
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Hotel Rural Chao San Martín Casa Rural
Castro
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Peñafuente sits at the top of a long gentle climb along the AS-28.
The camino crosses through town to the right and follows a track above the road, and eventually intersects it. Cross the road and continue UP the track, NOT down towards Bustelo.
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