On the way out of town, it is once more along the N550 (which frankly will be the case frequently between here and Santiago). Leave it to your right at the first bend in the road.
We found a small, (3 rooms - double, twin, 4 bunks), clean, quiet, unlisted Pension. The modern bath is shared. Washing machine, kitchenette. Very helpful host, son speaks English.
Right hand side of road, just past the first bridge. Must reserve. Pension Rio Umia. $30 euro double room.
As you walk into Caldas drop down to the tapas bar on the right . Unbelievable food and cheap too. A place to lose an afternoon
We stayed here basically because I was given the pamphlet on the road. €6 for a bed ina room of 4 . No bunks. It seems fine