There are a couple of pensiones in Boñar, but I have stayed only in the Nisi. The pensión rooms are on the top floor. On the floor below, the owner of the pensión offers rooms and care to old folks without resources or family. As I understand it, she uses the money from the pensión and restaurant below to support those who live there. She is no spring chicken herself, and is constantly on the go to take residents to doctor’s appointments, etc. All services available in Boñar.
Day 13. Boñar to Vegacervera (27 km)
In Boñar the camino splits and offers two options. One is typically walked in three stages and goes through mountains (Boñar-Vegacervera-Buiza- La Magdalena) and one is typically two stages and avoids the mountains (Boñar - La Robla - La Magdalena). I will start with the mountain route and then go back and review the alternative.
This is a totally gorgeous 5 star day, at least if you ignore the last 8 km or so, which is on the side of the road from Correcillas. Actually, even that last part is very pretty, no traffic at all, it’s just that it’s on pavement.
The walk is off road at the beginning, really pretty, up to the small town of La Mata de la Bérbula, where there is a café. From La Mata to Correcillas, it is only 6 km, but it is one of those jaw-dropping but steep ascents — as you huff and puff up, you suddenly arrive at the top and the view just spreads out in front of you. It is really spectacular, the valley you ascended is there behind you, and real mountain peaks in front of you. We soaked it in for a long long time.
Not too far away from the high point, there is also a little chapel, the Ermita de San Froilán. I have been unable to find instructions on how to get there from the Camino Olvidado. All I see are routes going there from the town of Valdorria below. I hope @alansykes will be able to help us out here. On one of his walks, I know he did not go up to the ermita, but did photograph it from below. But he has also posted a picture from the ermita, so I am pretty certain he has actually walked up there on a return visit to the stage from Boñar.
Lots of shade and beautiful views on the descent, too!
Now, for those who don’t want to undertake this stage in its entirety, but would like a glimpse of what is truly mountain glory, you could consider taking a taxi from Boñar to La Mata de la Bérbula (16.5 km from Boñar). You will miss one of the ascents, but the views are not nearly as spectacular as the one after La Mata. It’s a huffing and puffing ascent — about 300 m in a kilometer or two, but if slow but steady works for you, consider this option. It would give you a day of about 12 kms, and after the big ascent, it is downhill (not too drastic an incline) and then pretty flat into Vegacervera.
There are also two towns with accommodations on this stage,
Ranedo de Curueño, about 8 km from Boñar, has a rural hotel,El Canto de Gallo.
Valdepiélago, which is about another km on, has several Casas Rurales. One of them is for two people and shows a price of 75€.
If you had stopped short of Boñar on the previous stage, in the Hotel Monasterio Ara-Mada, you would have a total of about 15 or 16 to one of those two places. That would mean a 20 km day to Vegacervera.
Day 13. Boñar to La Robla (33 km).
This is the other option from Boñar, the flat option. Both meet up in La Magdalena after a fair amount of road walking.
The last kms into La Robla were quite nice, and off-road, at least till the big factory came into view!
For shorter distances, there are several ways to spit the stage.
Abut 9.5 km from Boñar — In La Vecilla, Hostal Las Hoces).
About 14 km from Boñar — The albergue in Aviados, Albergue Fuente de Oso. They have confirmed via WhatsApp that they take in pilgrims for a night, but reserve in advance. Tel. +34 666 60 58 35
About 20 from Boñar — The online Camino Olvidado website lists a hotel in Robles de la Valcueva, the Hotel Rural el Arriero. No website that I can find, though it does come up on google maps.
About 25 from Boñar, in Candanedo, Hostal el Valle. Actually, a stop here would position you for an approximately 24 km day the next day to La Magdalena.