→ 3.50 → Castrojeriz → 3.60km → Alto de Mostelares

Altitude
817
To end of camino
443.70
ATM
Yes
Bar
Yes
Bus
Yes
Grocery
Yes
Medical Center
Yes
Pharmacy
Yes
Restaurant
Yes

The camino-road layout of Castrojeriz is deceptively long and unlike some of the smaller examples has spread to encompass several parallel streets. All three of its churches are worth a visit, and a hike to the ruins of the castle provide a view of the surrounding land that is paralleled only by the climb out of town.

Most pilgrim related services can be found along the Calle Oriente, but the pharmacy and the larger groceries are closer to the main road. 

Also along the Oriente is the Hospital del Alma; part art gallery and part meditation space and exactly where you want to go if you seek a bit a peace and quite.

In the main square is a small pilgrim shop, one of the last of its kind. The owner is quite a character and has managed to keep up with the times, trading the usual small village wares for the type of high-tech gear that modern pilgrims are looking for.

On the way out of town is the Bar Lagar, named for the well-preserved grape press sitting in the center. Check it out for a glimpse of how things were once done.

Fiesta

San Juan is celebrated on the 24th of June.  Other fiestas on the 25th and 26th of November for Santa Catalina.

History

The houses along the road were built with an unseen secret, that of a tunnel which runs the length of the town and which connects the cellars. Apart from being the private property of the homeowners, its exploration is hampered by the construction of concrete dividing walls; a civil war era safety measure to preserve one’s well being. The town was, and still is, passionately divided. That won’t stop you from enjoying the charm it puts out for pilgrims.

The Road

The road ahead climbs up and over the Alto de Mostelares. There is not much shade to be had between here and the crossing into Palencia.

Comments

michael

Stayed here in September 2020 and returned in September 2021, very nice staff, pleasant communal evening meal, recommended. One room opposite the bar has people talking but i didn't think that too bad, this happens in lots of places. Nice place.

michael

It’s a dark rabbit warren. Quite funky, with a nice little swimming pool. But if the hospitalero called Arga is there, avoid it. He is an insane control freak. Runs around after you checking you’re wearing your mask, sprays everything as soon as you touch it. But then, in the evening, he will make spaghetti and let everyone sit together in a small dining room not wearing masks.
I was making my dinner in the kitchen and he just stood there, staring at me. Finally I asked him for some privacy and he started to tell me how friendly he was. Felt extremely uncomfortable. There are several other perfectly good albergues here.

michael

I will reiterate what was said above, he was waiting for me when I got to the door then unlocked a chain to let me in. He then sprayed me and my pack with disinfectant and asked to see a vaccination certificate which I showed him. He then said to leave my pack and sticks by the door which I refused. Very creepy guy and creepy place. Got such a bad vibe within the first 5 minutes that I left and found an amazing place 100m up the road Albergue-Hotel A Cien Leguas super friendly, great accommodation and all amenities also speaks fluent English if it helps you. Highly recommended. Probably one of the best I've stayed in so far.

michael

I chose this albergue because of the wonderful reviews on line. Very loud bar noise next door of people and music at night. Air conditioner was only on during the afternoon. Internet connection was difficult to get connection. Over all this is a very welcoming and cozy clean place, but very old facilities that really need updating. Disappointed since I love Castrojeriz.

michael

El Peregrino- amazing little shop for pilgrim supplies. He has it all. In Plaza Mayor.

michael

Can recommemd this deconsecrated church now given over to interesting and well-thought-out interactive displays about different aspects of the Camino. The light show projected on the ceiling alone is worth the price of admission (€1 for pilgrims). No museum overload. You're done in 30 minutes, tops.