The camino-road layout of Castrojeriz is deceptively long and unlike some of the smaller examples has spread to encompass several parallel streets. All three of its churches are worth a visit, and a hike to the ruins of the castle provide a view of the surrounding land that is paralleled only by the climb out of town.
Most pilgrim related services can be found along the Calle Oriente, but the pharmacy and the larger groceries are closer to the main road.
Also along the Oriente is the Hospital del Alma; part art gallery and part meditation space and exactly where you want to go if you seek a bit a peace and quite.
In the main square is a small pilgrim shop, one of the last of its kind. The owner is quite a character and has managed to keep up with the times, trading the usual small village wares for the type of high-tech gear that modern pilgrims are looking for.
On the way out of town is the Bar Lagar, named for the well-preserved grape press sitting in the center. Check it out for a glimpse of how things were once done.
San Juan is celebrated on the 24th of June. Other fiestas on the 25th and 26th of November for Santa Catalina.
The houses along the road were built with an unseen secret, that of a tunnel which runs the length of the town and which connects the cellars. Apart from being the private property of the homeowners, its exploration is hampered by the construction of concrete dividing walls; a civil war era safety measure to preserve one’s well being. The town was, and still is, passionately divided. That won’t stop you from enjoying the charm it puts out for pilgrims.
The road ahead climbs up and over the Alto de Mostelares. There is not much shade to be had between here and the crossing into Palencia.