The Camino del Norte: in the basque country
There are several points along this stretch of the road where you may see an errant arrow or two pointing in a direction which doesn’t feel like the camino. This is because in years past the camino followed a different route into Gernika. Follow the freshest arrows and the wooden post signs. The...
Accommodation in Olabe
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1 |
Albergue Andiketxe Private
Barrio Olabe, 13
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20 | 12€ |
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Located 1km off the camino on a marked trail to the left. It is not necessary to return to the camino, as the road from here re-joins it in Marmiz. If you go that way, pay close attention to the turn to the right in town, see below for a description.
Accommodation in Elejalde
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1 |
Albergue Municipal Idatze Etxea Municipal
Elexalde, 7
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36 | 7€ |
The camino only touches the edge of town, nearing the main road but turning right before it gets to it. It climbs a bit and traverses the hillside before descending to Ajangiz.
In town the camino crosses the main road to cut through the square and around the church. It will make its way back to the road and follow it all the way down into Gernika, passing a small park just before arriving at the main road.
Upon reaching the main road, the city of Gernika is to...
The tragedies of war have created in Gernika something of an anomalous urban layout; a great many buildings were destroyed, nearly three-quarters of them, and new buildings were shoehorned into their place. It remains pedestrian friendly and is large enough to take up your afternoon.
On...
The names of Gernika and Picasso are inseparable, bound together since the talented artist was commissioned by the Second Spanish Republic to commemorate the horrific events that took place here on an April market day in 1936; it was propaganda at its most artistic level. The massive painting,...
Beyond Gernika the camino is without any services for 15km, pack accordingly.
Andra Mari y San Roque from the 9th to 18th of August.
Monday remains the Market day, as it has for centuries.
Keep going straight after crossing the bridge into Gernika, following the road to where it ends at a large mural recreating Picasso’s famous painting depicting the city under bombardment. Turn left there, uphill and against traffic, passing the Iglesia de Santa María de la Antigua. A...
Accommodation in Gernika
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1 |
Albergue Gernika Lumo Aterpetxea Private
Kortezubi bidea, 9
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40 | 18€ |
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2 |
Pensión Akelarre Ostatua ⭑⭑ Pension
Barrenkalea, 5
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Booking.com |
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3 |
Hotel Boliña ⭑ Hotel
Barrenkale, 3
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Booking.com | |
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4 |
Hotel Gernika ⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Gangoiti, 17
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Booking.com |
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5 |
Albergue juvenil de Gernika Closed
Zeharreta, 11
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35 | Donativo€ |
If you stayed at the albergue here, remember to return to the camino by going uphill. Otherwise follow the arrows through this place, eventually descending to Goikolexea and the Iglesia de San Hemeterius and Celedonius at the entrance to town.
Accommodation in Eskerika (Morga)
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1 |
Albergue Eskerika Private |
20 | 14€ |
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The Iglesia de San Emeterio and San Celedonio is the most massive building for miles. It, like the Tree in Gernika, was a meeting point for the Lords of Viscaya.
After passing the church and bar at the start of town the camino comes to the main road where it turns left and follows the road all the way to nearby Larrabetzu.
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Larrabetzu is one of the most outspoken villages in the Basque fight for independence. The city was a key location in the line of defense known as the Iron Belt. The hillsides here are criss-crossed with trenches and fortified bunkers designed to defend against the capture of Bilbao by the...
San Isidro, the patron of the town, is celebrated on the 15th of May.
The camino turns right at the entrance to Larrabetzu, leaving the main road behind. In town it turns right and begins to follow a different road directly to Lezama.
Accommodation in Larrabetzu
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Albergue de peregrinos de Larrabetzu Municipal
Lehendakari Agirre
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20 | Donativo€ |
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Lezama is the eastern-most village with rail access to Bilbao and the last city before reaching its outer suburbs.
The camino keeps to the main road, passing straight through Lezama. It goes straight through two large roundabouts and turns left at the third to pass underneath the railway lines. After doing so it arrives at another roundabout, on the right-hand side is a trail that will take you under the AP-...
Accommodation in Lezama
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1 |
Albergue de Lezama Municipal
Garaiotza 133 E
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20 | Donativo€ |
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2 |
Casa Rural Madarian Casa Rural
Barrio Aretxalde, 88
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Booking.com |
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3 |
Hotel Rural Matsa ⭑⭑ Hotel
Aretxalde, 153
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Booking.com |
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Both Zamudio and Derio are located along the road from Lezama and can be reached by simply keeping straight at the third roundabout mentioned above.
Accommodation in Zamudio
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Casa Rural Iabiti Casa Rural
Arteaga Auzoa, 13
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Booking.com |
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2 |
Hotel Aretxarte ⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Pq. Tecnológico de Zamudio edf. 200
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Booking.com |
The Guggenheim Museum of Bilbao, a building voted for and funded by its citizens, was the first step in putting this historically industry-bound city on the tourist map. Since its opening in 1997, the city has grown rapidly to accommodate the explosion in visitors.
It is a large...
Though settled by the Romans, the modern city of Bilbao didn’t really take root until the 14th century, alongside the majority of cities along the Basque coastline.
Within a few centuries iron ore would be discovered in the mountains nearby and the city would achieve a level of...
The main festival of Bilbao is known as La Semana Grande (though you will more likely see posters for ‘Aste Nagusia’); it celebrates the Assumption of Mary on the 15th of August. The 9-day celebration kicks off the following Saturday.
The route through Bilbao is not singular. Indeed if you spend any time wandering off the camino (and you should) you are likely to find yellow arrows pointing a way. There is no wrong way, but there are many.
There are essentially three different options ahead; all routes cross the river...
Accommodation in Bilbao
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Albergue de Peregrinos de Bilbao Municipal
Kobetas, 60
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40 | Donativo€ |
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2 |
Albergue Bilbao Akelarre Hostel Private
Morgan 4-6 - Metro Deusto
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36 | 15-17*€ |
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Booking.com |
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3 |
Albergue BBK Bilbao Good Hostel Private
Miraflores 16 - Metro Bolueta
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104 | 18*€ |
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Booking.com |
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4 |
Bilbao Hostel Private
Carretera Basurto - Castrejana 70
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142 | 18*€ |
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Booking.com |
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5 |
Albergue Ganbara Hostel Private
Prim, 13
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62 | 18*€ |
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Booking.com |
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6 |
Albergue Bilbao Central Hostel Private
Fernández del Campo, 24
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40 | 17*€ |
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Booking.com |
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7 |
Albergue Moon Hostel Bio Private
Luzarra, 7
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92 | 10€ |
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Booking.com |
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8 |
Albergue de peregrinos Santa Cruz de Begoña Parochial
Padre Remigio Vilariño, 1
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22 | Donativo€ |
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9 |
Albergue Claret Enea Association
Plaza Corazón de María
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28 | 11*€ |
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10 |
Pensión Zubia Urban Rooms ⭑ Pension
Amistad, 5
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Booking.com |
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11 |
Pensión de la Fuente ⭑ Pension
Sombrereria, 2
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Booking.com |
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12 |
Pil Pil Hostel & Suites Hostal
Sabino Arana, 14
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Booking.com |
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13 |
Hotel Carlton ⭑⭑⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Plaza Federico Moyúa, 2
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Booking.com |
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January: San Vicente on the 22nd.
February: Santa Águeda on the 5th.
July: Santiago on the 25th and San Ignacio on the 31st.
August: San Roque on the 16th
October: Santa Teresa on the 15th.
Accommodation in Barakaldo
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Pensión Zeus ⭑⭑ Pension
Telleria 10 (Cruces)
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Booking.com |
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Hostal Retuerto Hostal
Noberto Acebal, 2
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June: San Juan and San Pedro, patrons of the city, on the 29th with a party that runs into the 30th.
July: Santiago on the 25th and San Ignacio on the 31st.
August: Santa Rosa de Lima on the 30th.
Portugalete was once the main competitor to Bilbao’s port, but for reasons unknown, it lost the deal early on. It remains a miniaturized version of the capital.
If you didn’t already come across it, and if you are fascinated by the marvels of civil engineering, follow the signs to the...
La Virgen de la Guía is celebrated on the 1st of July, San Roque and La Virgen from August 15th to 17th.
The route from Portugalete to La Arena is almost entirely on paved surfaces, and getting out of the expanses of the city require twisting and turning your way around and under the complex network of highways that crowd out green space. Much of the trail is along a dedicated bike path, separated...
Accommodation in Portugalete
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Albergue de peregrinos de Portugalete Municipal
Martin Fernandez Villaran, 2
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28 | Donativo€ |
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2 |
Albergue Bide Ona Private
Julio Gutiérrez Lumbreras, 10
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34 | 12€ |
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Booking.com |
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3 |
Pensión Buenavista Pension
San Juan Bautista, 1
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4 |
Pensión Bellamar ⭑ Pension
Ortuño de Alango, 31
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Booking.com |
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5 |
Gran Hotel Puente Colgante ⭑⭑⭑ Hotel
Doña María Díaz de Haro, 2
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Booking.com |
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6 |
Pensión La Guía Closed
Virgen de la Guía, 4
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The long boardwalk here makes for a comfortable place to have a pause. All of the bars and shops are on the east end of it.
Just prior to arriving in La Arena, you may notice old arrows directing you to your left. They occur shortly before passing under a bridge and should be ignored. Continue straight into La Arena.
The camino follows the boardwalk in La Arena, where it eventually joins a new foot bridge over the small estuary and into Pobeña.
After crossing the bridge you have the option of going across the parking lot to the town, where you will find the albergue and several restaurants.
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There are several restaurants in this small town, some are fancier than others. Take a quick stroll to scout them out before settling in.
To keep on the camino, do not cross the parking lot. Instead look to your right; just past the Residencia Pobeña is a narrow path that takes you uphill for a beautiful walk along the headlands.
The camino turns inland and passes under the A-8 just before arriving into Ontón, and along the...
Accommodation in Pobeña
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1 |
Albergue de Pobeña Municipal
Barrio de Pobeña
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40 | Donativo€ |
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In Ontón the camino climbs a set of stairs to bring you back up to the level of the N-634, at a point where the road curves sharply and arrows point in two distinct directions.
Option 1: Along N-634 through Mioño & tunnel- 7.1
To follow the new route, simply...
Accommodation in Ontón
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1 |
Albergue Tu Camino Private
N-634, 71
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25 | 6€ |
There is a variant here which directs you to leave the N-634 before arriving into Mioño. It takes you to Castro Urdiales via the coast.
In Mioño the camino leaves the N-634 by turning left just before the church, following the signs to the Asador El Tunel. Just past the Asador (a bar and restaurant) is the Tunel, an 800m path cut through the mountainside. At the other end are the southern suburbs of Castro Urdiales, which you...