→ 5.50 → Chantada → 1.60km → Centulle
This town’s arcaded streets are lined with elegant portals and mansions from the 15th and 16th centuries.
When you cross the bridge into town, Piolindo is the first bar on the right. It has been reported as having good food, and the manager Rachel is very helpful. Highly recommended by two separate pilgrims! Rachel will help you find your way to the place you want to stay. The next establishment, Bar do Río, is on the left with a very nice terrace looking over the river.
Bar Lucus, under the arches near the tourist office, was the only restaurant in Chantada that received unanimous praise. The owners retired a couple of years ago, and reports on the new management are mixed. No crowds reported at lunchtime anymore, though the food is certainly edible. The outdoor seating near the river is lovely, even if the food may have dropped a notch.
One restaurant nearby is the Bar as Amizades on the new main drag, Juan XXIII. 9€ menu; nothing gourmet but totally edible. Pulpería Os Pendellos is reportedly fantastic, too, but be ready for crowds. Rúa de Benigno Ledo, 13. Pizzería Agocho, close to both the Hotel Mogay and Hostal Yoel, recommended. Café Amedeo also highly rated by one pilgrim. Panadería Ascención recommended for breakfast, just around the corner from Hotel Mogay.
Hotel Gamallo; Garcia Arias, 7 Tel. 982 440 833.
Laundromat in the same building as Pensión Yoel. 3 € with a credit card, 3.5 € if you pay cash.
The modern church in the center of town is pilgrim-friendly and offers a sello. The Casa de Cultura, alongside the church and with free wifi, also offers a sello and is very helpful.
The path crosses over a mountain and past the landmark Hermitage of Monte Faro. On this stretch are several beautiful petos de las ánimas, medieval crossroads shrines with striking sculpted images of the souls in purgatory. The little slot was there so the faithful could make monetary offerings on behalf of those souls.
Leave Chantada from Praza Santa Ana along Alferez Baanante, heading towards Centulle. You are actually walking on the in-town portion of the LU-1809 highway. Just past the first peto de ánimas, a mojón takes you off the road. Continue through the little hamlet of Centulle. You will eventually be back on the LU-1809. Follow the arrows to the right.
After that right turn, about a hundred meters or so down the road, go left, and walk on the service road of the main Chantada-Lalín highway. You will stay on the service road for a few km. Pass over a paved road or two, and after you go under the road bridge, turn left. Go through the hamlet of Boan.
Enter Lucenza and keep straight on. Before the end of this hamlet, take the path to the right. At the stop sign, cross a paved road, follow the mojón onto a composite road on the left. At the next stop, cross the road and keep straight on. The next hamlet you pass through is Vilaseco.
Continue to the little town of Penasillás.