The closure of Hostal As Viñas in Pobra was not welcome news for pilgrims. Yet for those who do not want to walk the 35 km from Quiroga to Monforte, there are several current options for lodging in or near Pobra de Brollón:
1. The polideportivo
2.There are several casas rurales and a hotel in Salcedo, about 3.5 km off camino. All under one management. http://www.turismoruralensalcedo.net/
Casas Rurales A Salanova AND Hotel O Forno, Tel. 982 430 501 OR 619 813 834. The owner is happy to provide transportation to and from the camino at no extra charge. If you prefer to walk there, you can follow a marked trail from Barxa de Lor (after crossing the river) or can take a turn-off on the road from near Castroncelos.
The town of A Pobra has made a little swimming area by constructing a simple dam along the river. Residents sing its praises, saying that it has been a hugely successful amenity. In summertime, it is the place to go in the warm afternoons. The water may be cold, but even if you don’t want to swim, it’s worth a visit to enjoy the very popular gathering spot.
Café Bar Restaurante Avenida, on the Camino, is highly recommended.
To leave A Pobra, the mojón taking you out of town is right next to the big Guardia Civil (national police) building, with its motto “Todo por la Patria” (everything for the homeland). You are soon on a beautiful green track, which comes out to the road paralleling the river – turn right and walk along the river.
You emerge at the first houses of Cereixa, go over bridge and through this little hamlet Cross the paved road, and go towards the crucifix and the church. The Camino then goes to the right towards Rairos. There is one more short ascent before Monforte.
The way is well marked and takes you through yet another pine forest. The descent is on a very wide dirt road, which in 2019 had signs that heavy earth-moving had taken place, perhaps in preparation for logging. When you cross a channel, you will be on a much more pleasant dirt road, and will descend into Reigada, which is the last hamlet before Monforte. From there into Monforte the way is well marked, on agricultural roads and tracks.
The last stretch before entering town is on a dirt path which seems to always be waterlogged, even in dry times. Reports in the press describe efforts to re-route the Camino at this spot, but as of summer 2019, nothing had changed. If the dirt path is just too muddy (some report mud and muck almost up to the knees), go back to the road, turn left and take that road into town. This will take you on the older route and past the train section, so you may see faded arrows.
When the Camino takes you over the railroad tracks, you will be on the Rúa Escultor Francisco Moure in central Monforte, where there are many bars, restaurants, and other commercial establishments. The Camino leaves Monforte on the Puente Romano, where there is a hotel and pensión. There are few if any arrows in town until you reach the Puente Romano.
The last section into the city of Monforte has been re-routed. When I first walked in 2008, the arrows took you past the RR station. That is a kind of scruffy area of town and no longer on the Camino, though you may still see arrows. Intown lodging options are likely a better choice. If you have trouble finding the arrows, just ask for how to get to the Puente Romano, Roman Bridge. That’s in central Monforte and is where the Camino crosses the river to leave town.