Ribadavia is the first historic town on the Geira and it’s worth spending the night even if that requires a rejigging of stages. There are several historic churches, a castle and an old Jewish quarter to explore. If the church of Santiago is closed, the women selling sweets virtually opposite the church at No.11 have the key.
For accommodation, Pension Evencio (also known as Garden Lodge) has budget rooms but it’s a 15-minute walk north of the castle area. Caracas is a restaurant that also has cheap rooms and is closer to the action.