Camino Primitivo in Lugo | Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago

Galicia and Lugo

1111

Remnants of a marker welcoming you to Galicia were still visible in 2012. Pilgrims have taken it upon themselves to mark out the line with stones as well.

Alto de Acebo

2.10km
1130

Bar on road, higher prices for tourists reported so ask before you buy.

Paradanova

2.00km
Altitude: 
843

Be advised that there have been a growing number of false arrows in Paradanova. Some of them are the official looking blue and yellow plastic (most are painted arrows) signs.

These arrows are intended to detour you from Fonsagrada and towards A Proba de Burón and should be ignored.

The real camino into Fonsagrada follows South of the road (keep road on your right and don't cross it).

If you find that you have mistakenly followed the wrong arrows, you will have another opportunity to get to Fonsagrada by turning left at the next large intersection.

Padrón

2.90km
Altitude: 
881

The camino between Padrón and O Cádavo is arguably the most difficult of the route, and possibly the reason for the nickname "Rompe Piernas". Allow for extra time, especially after a rain since many of the sections become thick with mud.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de Padrón
Padrón

Xunta
24 6 Photo in Albergue de Padrón on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Padrón on the Camino de Santiago

Pradeda

1.10km
Altitude: 
738

The bar and albergue are both in the town of Pradela, which sits just off the camino before it descends towards Trabadelo. You do not need to go into town unless you are after a drink or a bed. Otherwise follow the arrows to keep along the camino. The forests here are thick with chestnut trees. If you see piles of prickly looking spheres at your feet, look out from above.

Road: Pradela sits on the hillside just above Trabadelo. The descent along the trail is quick and will deliver you into a side street half way into town; it is also possible to follow the road for a longer but less steep journey.

Castroverde

1.50km
Altitude: 
592

The town has most of its business along the main road. It is named for the castle which used to stand to the north, of which only a wall and tower remain. It is visible from the camino when departing town, or by making a small detour up a side street to see it up close.

A stamp is available at the town hall opposite the church.

A new municipal albergue opened in September of 2012. Concrete information is scarce, but as it is brand new and organized by the Xunta, it ought to provide similar services as seen in O Cadavo. If you have anything to add, please do so in the comments.

Photo in Castroverde on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Castroverde on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de Castroverde

Xunta
34 6
2 Pensión Cortés
Campo da Feira

Pension

Vilar de Cas

2.70km
Altitude: 
517

No bars or services apart from a pair of vending machines.

▷ to visit Iglesia de Soutomerille or △ camino

The camino outside of Vilar de Cas leaves the road 400m outside of town. Carry on straight to stay on the camino, or turn right for a short (<500m) detour through an evergreen forest to the Iglesia de Soutomerille.

On the way you will pass several ruins of the former village of Soutomerille. The church itself it thought to date back to 1122, though it's reconstruction in 1619 appears to have changed the facade.

Gondar

2.30km
Altitude: 
483

No bars or services apart from a pair of well-stocked vending machines. The bulk of the town is actual to the north of the camino, and anyone interested in the local architecture should pay it a visit.

Bascuas

3.00km
Altitude: 
511

Bascuas lies to the North of the camino shortly beyond the sandpit. Black and yellow arrows point to the right and will keep you on the camino, which no longer passes through this village. Instead, it turns left again and parallels the main road into Lugo.

Carballido

2.00km
Altitude: 
489

If you are a devout follower of arrows, you will enter and exit Carballido without ever seeing more than the road signs. The village didn't move, but the camino did. The village is to the South through the trees. It is a smaller than most, and is comprised mostly of one large estate and a slaughterhouse for chickens. Continue on the road, being mindful of traffic. The camino turns to the Right just beyond town to follow another much safer asphalt road.

As Casas da Viña

6.30km
Altitude: 
502

As Casas is not much more of a village than any that you passed through along this stretch. It is however the last one you will pass before getting to the edge of Lugo and it's suburbs.

As the route approaches Lugo it passes through some rather unappealing surroundings. When it arrives at the highway it makes a right turn and continues to a small overpass. This is the A6 below you. You are on a mostly disused road until the next sign of habitation appears. The entrance to Lugo is mercifully brief but uphill.

After passing under the rail road cross the road to your Right at the first marked pedestrian crossing. Take the stairs on your left to the Rua de Fontiñas. Turn left here, following the arrows, but cross to your Right at the first pedestrian crossing. This road will take you straight up to the old walled city and one of the city gates. The albergue is just inside the wall and to the right down a side street.

Lugo

7.30km
Altitude: 
464

Lugo is the capital of the province of Lugo and one of the most populated cities in Galicia.

The once defensive "Muralla" that surrounds it was built by the Romans in the 3rd c. and is as tall as 15 meters in parts. If you have not had your fill of walking, make your way to one of the many staircases or ramps (one directly in front of the Cathedral) and enjoy an elevated view of the city from the pedestrian path that now encircles the old town. It is over 2km long, but that's nothing. It also has 71 towers and 10 gates.

As is the case with most places dating back to the Romans, the actual origin of the name Lugo is not clear. Some argue that is is named after Lugos, the God of Light. However back when the Romans were first conquering these parts (13 B. c. ), it was called Lucus Augusti, and some argue that the name comes from the Latin Lucus, or sacred grove. When gods and topology vie for the namesake, nobody wins.

The walled city is obviously well placed, perched high above the three rivers (Minho, Rato, and Chanca) that provide for natural boundaries. It's prosperity survived for many centuries but was abandoned by the middle of the 8th. century. A slow revival began and by the middle ages, the pilgrimage to Santiago had once again brought prosperity to the region.

It has continued to grow up to the present day, and the city that was once bound by a wall has expanded to an area much larger.

During the last weeks of June, the city celebrates Arde Lucus or Burn Lugo. The residents dress in full Roman regalia and celebrate Lugo's origins. If you are lucky enough to pass through at this time, allow for an extra day to take in all of the activities, but be advised that the celebration draws a crowd of people nearly a half a million strong and book your room.

Some notes about the camino between here and Melide, or to Palais de Rey, are in order. This guide only includes the route to Melide as it is the most sensible and well serviced one. The stretch from Lugo to Melide (roughly 50km) is no longer devoid of any place to sleep. There are now at least 4 albergues and at least one casa rural which cover this stretch. They include a municipal and a private albergue in Castrelo (just beyond San Roman), a private albergue in Ponte Ferreira, and a new municipal albergue in Seixas.

With that in mind, finding food and drink along the stretch is not as easy as you would think, and nothing before 10km.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Lugo
das Noreas, 1

Xunta
42 6 Photo in Albergue de Lugo on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Lugo on the Camino de Santiago
2 Pensión San Roque
Plaza Comandante Manso, 11

Pension
Photo in Pensión San Roque on the Camino de Santiago
3 Hotel España
Vilalba, 2

Hotel
Photo in Hotel España on the Camino de Santiago
4 Hotel Exe Puerta San Pedro
Río Neira, 29

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Exe Puerta San Pedro on the Camino de Santiago
5 Hotel Méndez Núñez
da Raiña, 1

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Méndez Núñez on the Camino de Santiago
6 Hostel Roots & Boots Lugo
Carretera Santiago, 216

Private
40 10 Photo in Hostel Roots &amp; Boots Lugo on the Camino de Santiago
7 Albergue Juvenil Lug2
Pintor Corredoira, 4

Private
75 9
Things to see
Lugo Cathedral Photo of Lugo Cathedral on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto of Lugo Cathedral on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto of Lugo Cathedral on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto of Lugo Cathedral on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto of Lugo Cathedral on the Camino de Santiago

San Vicente del Burgo

3.70km
Altitude: 
535

The bar here is the first stop from Lugo. Ignore the worn out sign on the building; it's open daily from 8. They serve food and can wrap you up something to take away if you like. Very pilgrim friendly.

Photo in San Vicente del Burgo on the Camino de Santiago

San Romao da Retorta

0.90km
Altitude: 
579

The bar in San Roman is open daily from 11. Nice and helpful, they keep tabs on the availability in the two albergues up the trail.

Things tend to get a bit tricky here if you are not fully aware. San Romao sits at the intersection of two country roads, and from here the camino goes off in two different directions. With the addition of a few new albergues along the stretch to Melide the northernmost route has gained favor. In years past it was common to turn to the south from where it was easier and shorter to make a detour to a nearby guesthouse.

From the bar in San Roman head west(turn right when leaving the bar). When you emerge on the road some 70m later, cross the road and take the path opposite you. The albergues are a short distance onward. 

San Xurxo

1.50km
Altitude: 
574

NEW Picnic area at start of the village.

Shortly beyond the church in San Xurxo, near the mojon marked P. K. 70,320, the camino splits. If you wish to go directly to Palais de Rei stay on the road. If you wish to go to Melide, follow the arrows off the road and onto a trail.

Merlán

0.80km
Altitude: 
551

Shortly after passing through Merlán turn off the road to your Left. Many websites and guides erroneously place the albergue of much further to the North. In fact, it is in As Seixas just a short distance from Merlán and due West. If you have missed the turn, it is possible to stay on the road (favored by cyclists) but longer.

As Seixas

1.50km
Altitude: 
584

Wonderful albergue recently added. To get there turn right up the first road following the signs. Otherwise, continue straight on through town. If you go to the albergue, don't forget to double back in the morning.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de peregrinos de As Seixas
Merlán / As Seixas

Xunta
34 6 Photo in Albergue de peregrinos de As Seixas on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de peregrinos de As Seixas on the Camino de Santiago
2 CASA Goriños
Merlán / As Seixas

Closed
6 10