Camino Primitivo in Asturias | Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago

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Oviedo is both the beginning and the end of several caminos. Descriptions below are separated.

Arriving along Camino San Salvador:

Shells and arrows will bring you right into the old quarters of Oviedo, passing a plaza and the beautiful Ayuntamiento building.

There is talk of a new certificate which you can claim upon completion of the route, but details of where to find it are not yet sorted out. For now, you are advised to ask in the Cathedral or in the Albergue de Peregrinos.

Leaving along the Camino Primitivo:

If you are starting your camino in Oviedo be sure to leave enough time to visit the Cathedral, which is the origin of the camino itself. It is also the place to pick up your credential (pilgrim passport) which will cost you 2.5€ but will include a visit to the Camara Santa.

The road out of Oviedo is notoriously difficult. To make matters worse, there are too many shells on the ground to be helpful, especially in the center. They mark several of the caminos into town as well, and there is no distinction between the two. If you can get your hands on a city map, you are in good hands.

This is how it is done:

1. With the main facade of the Cathedral to your back, walk to the opposite end of the plaza and take the exit on the right. This is the Calle San Francisco.

2. San Francisco ends when it meets Calle de Uría (350m from Cathedral). Turn right and follow Calle de Uría. For the first 250m, the Park of San Francisco will be on your left. Stay on this road, regardless of arrows or shells. It is about 700m long and ends at the train station.

3. At the train station, turn left along the Calle de la Independencia. Stay on the right-hand side of the road. You will pass 7 cubist looking buildings before the sidewalk turns sharply back to the right. Follow the turn and cross the road towards another cluster of 4 similar buildings with a plaza in front. From here it is safe to follow the arrows.

4. At the end of the plaza is a round about. Cross to the left (clockwise) twice and turn left along the Calle de la Argañosa. When it turns to the left (700m) you should turn towards the right, looking out for the pedestrian bridge which crosses the train tracks.

5. The arrows from here zig zag you through new development which ends quickly. By the time you get to an urban looking track and have left Oviedo behind, you will have covered about 3.6km provided you did not get lost.

Oviedo fades from view quickly and with the exception of the capital of Lugo it is beautiful country walking the whole way. Buen camino!

Photo in Oviedo on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Oviedo on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Oviedo on the Camino de Santiago
Photo in Oviedo on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Oviedo on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de El Salvador de Oviedo
Leopoldo Alas, 20

32 5
2 Residencia-Albergue Villa Cecilia
Emigrante, 12

34 10
3 Albergue La Peregrina
Covadonga, 8

32 7



There is a small chapel here, the Capilla de Carmen, where you can get a stamp. Follow the track in front of the chapel as it veers to the right and away from the road. There are a fountain and picnic area a short distance ahead.

Capilla de Carmen


Keep on the track that the Capilla is on, do not follow the road.

Puente de Gallegos


The "Bridge of Gallegos (the town up the road)" originally dated from the 13th. c. but was destroyed in 1934.

After crossing the bridge, continue along the road. It will take you uphill and straight through town. An arrowed detour to the right offers an opportunity to break from the road, but does add a km. Statistics below. Note that the albergue in town is on the far side of Escamplero.

1.8 from Bridge to Escamplero (start of town, bar) along road.

2.5 to Albergue(˜up 168, down 55)

2.9 from Bridge to Escamplero (start of town, bar) along trail.



2 bars, one at the start of town and another closer to the albergue. The latter bar keeps the keys to the albergue, and if they are closed (Wednesdays, check under the flower pot on top of the wine barrel at the rear of the bar next to the entrance). There is also a new shop, which although it is small does supply enough to get you through. They are also kind enough to put a bottle of white in the cooler to pick up later.

Exit town via the road (leave albergue and turn left). 

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue del Escamplero
El Escamplero

33 4 Photo in Albergue del Escamplero on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue del Escamplero on the Camino de Santiago



Before Valsera, the camino will leave the road for 400m. Once it rejoins the road, be on the lookout for a marker on your left where you will once again leave the road and follow a track through the countryside. You will once again meet a road shortly before arriving in Premoño.

Photo in Valsera on the Camino de Santiago
Things to see
Capilla de Fatima



There is a poorly kept picnic area on the way into town. Bar Feliciano is the only place in town.

At the end of town, the camino turns to the right near a large horreo and onto a country track. Cyclists should leave town by staying on the road, down the hill, and to the right at the first junction (PALADIN 1km). It is the same distance and well marked but avoids some unfriendly terrain.



Offers a bench and shaded rest area, as well as a fountain which is 20m away behind a house. Turn right at the first road, and then right again at the entrance to the first house. Straight back.

Between Paladin and Peñaflor you will be walking with the Rio Nalón and the train tracks on your left-hand side.



If you are accustomed to using road signs to know where you are, then Peñaflor might confuse you. It is signed twice, once before the bridge and again afterward. For the sake of measurements, this guide uses the latter as it is closer the town.

However! If you are looking for the bar, it is the one that is before the bridge.

Photo in Peñaflor on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Peñaflor on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Peñaflor on the Camino de Santiago



Tourist information office in the park at the start of town. Beware guidebooks which erroneously place an albergue in Grado, when it is 3.5 km outside of town. There are several groceries in town. Many pilgrims eager to get on to San Juan stay on the road and get straight out of town. If you would like to stop and look around (or shop) cut through the park towards the more pedestrian streets to your left.

Leave Grado by the main road (N-634). You will pass the 18th. c. Fuente de Arriba, from which the people of Grado drew their water before the installation of running water, on your right. Shortly beyond a cruceiro on your left the camino turns left and begins climbing, first on a concrete road and then on a gravel path.

The camino emerges onto the road, turns right, and passes over a newly constructed roadway. It then passes through the hamlet of Cascayal and El Valle (a place with no buildings whatsoever, but which does have a dumpster). At the next road junction is the turn to San Juan de Villapañada.

Name Beds Price
1 Hotel El Lacayo de Sestiello
Sestiello, 1

Photo in Hotel El Lacayo de Sestiello on the Camino de Santiago
2 Hotel Auto Bar
Flórez Estrada, 29

3 Pensión Narcea
Flórez Estrada, 48

4 Albergue de Peregrinos de Grado
Maestra Benicia, 1

16 Donativo
Things to see
Iglesia de San Pedro

El Fresno


Warning!There remain several yellow arrows directing you uphill from the church in El Fresno. These are from a detour which existed during the construction of the nearby A63. The camino has returned to it's original route which goes downhill from here.

Where the camino meets the road before El Fresno, a new information board indicates your options. Descend to the left, following the old access road left behind from the construction of the adjacent highway.

Cabruñana [off camino]


With the recent completion of road works in the area, Cabruñana has once again found itself NOT on the camino proper. It is still possible to go there, and the albergue is still open. To do so, go UP from El Fresno, and not down. The route in this direction remains well marked.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de Cabruñana
Alto de Cabruñana

18 5



NOTE: Ignore the sign indicating the trail to your left when you get into Cornellana. It will take you well out of your way. Instead, continue straight into town along the main road. Turn left at the 4th street and straight to the Monastery. Albergue entrance on the right.

The construction of a new highway nearby does not appear as if it will be finished any time soon. The camino leaves town from the road behind the monastery. Arrows are weakly painted here. Simply follow the road to the left of the monastery, and turn right at the first junction to follow the property line of the monastery.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de Cornellana
Monasterio de San Salvador de Cornellana

24 5 Photo in Albergue de Cornellana on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Cornellana on the Camino de Santiago
2 Hotel Cornellana
Fernández Pello

3 Casa Rural Casa el Médico
Fernández Pello, 97

Casa Rural
4 Hotel La Fuente
Fernández Pello, 52


Turn RIGHT up track


600m after Sobrerriba, at a point where the houses crowd the road, the camino turns right onto a mountain track. There is a shell on a house indicating the often missed turn. The track curves to the left and around the mount before descending near a sand pit and the town of Llamas.



Turn left before the picnic area to visit the church.

Beyond the town you will pass under a roadway. Shortly beyond that you will leave the road and continue by trail, passing over the Puente de Casazorrina.


Salas has everything you might need, including a post office to mail your unwanted items. To exit town, carry on under the archway and up the road. There is a fair amount of climbing ahead of you.
Salas - Camino de Santiago - 9
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de Salas
Plaza La Veiga, 8,

16 5 Photo in Albergue de Salas on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue La Campa de Miguel
Plaza de la Campa, 7

40 12*
3 Hotel Castillo de Valdés-Salas
Plaza La Campa

Photo in Hotel Castillo de Valdés-Salas on the Camino de Santiago
4 Hotel Soto
Arzobispo Valdés Salas, 9


El Llanón


The upward climb out of Salas meets the road at El Llanón, which is easy to miss as its infrastructure counts for little more than an abandoned rest stop along the road.

Not long ago this junction posed problems, but the way is now clear. Turn right here and follow the road. You will cross under a pair of large elevated roadways, take a wide turn in the road, and then pass back under the same roadways. Shortly afterward the camino abandons the road and turns up to the left.



Salas does not account for much more than the albergue. It is, however, a nice albergue and you are welcome to stop there for a break.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de peregrinos de Bodenaya

21 Donativo Photo in Albergue de peregrinos de Bodenaya on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de peregrinos de Bodenaya on the Camino de Santiago

El Pedregal


Sadly, El Pedregal no longer offers any services to passing pilgrims. There is a well stocked and maintained vending machine at the end of town. This is the last place to buy anything until Tineo.

Approximately 3.5km beyond Pedregal, the camino nears but does not enter the village of Santa Eulalia de Tineo. Turn sharply right when the camino meets the road at this point.



Getting into and out of Tineo can be somewhat confusing.

To enter:

From the Capilla de San Roque at the park before town, follow the road and turn left at the first fork (towards the pool). Follow this to the first intersection and turn to the left sharply and downward. The albergue is the second building.

To exit:

Buy supplies. Between Tieno and Campiello there are no services apart from the fountain mentioned below.

Memorize the map on the wall of the albergue. No matter which way you go the path goes both steeply up and down through town, there is no way to avoid it. Head back up the hill towards where you came from, but turn to the left on the road. After a bend in the road turn to the right up a sharp incline. At the top, turn left and begin descending into the center of town. From there, turn to the right and back up the hill on an almost parallel road. In 200m turn upwards to the right.

Not far out of Tineo is a small picnic area with a fountain.

Tineo - Camino de Santiago - 9Tineo - Camino de Santiago - 9Tineo - Camino de Santiago - 9
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue Mater Christi de Tineo
Cabezas de San Juan

38 5 Photo in Albergue Mater Christi de Tineo on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Mater Christi de Tineo on the Camino de Santiago
2 Hotel Palacio de Meras
Pío Cuervo, 3

Photo in Hotel Palacio de Meras on the Camino de Santiago
3 Pensión Bar Tineo
González de Mayo, 28

Photo in Pensión Bar Tineo on the Camino de Santiago
4 Pensión La Posada
González Mayo, 25

Photo in Pensión La Posada on the Camino de Santiago
5 Albergue Palacio de Merás
Pío Cuervo, 3

54 10



After descending from the alto, you emerge onto the main road (AS-350) in Piedratecha, which no longer has a bar. Turn right and follow the road. About 600m the camino bears to the Left along a trail.

Halfway down the hill to Vilaluz, there is an option detour to the ruins of the Monasterio de Obona.

Photo in Piedratecha on the Camino de Santiago



There are two bars in Campiello. Casa Ricardo on the left is a grocery, bar, and restaurant. Now in their third generation of ownership, they offer the cheapest and friendliest place in town. Casa Herminia, proprietors of the albergue, also do dinner but are reported to be extortionate in their pricing.

If you plan on continuing to Borres, stock up on food in Campiello.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue Casa Herminia
Campiello, 4

26 10 Photo in Albergue Casa Herminia on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Casa Ricardo
Campiello, 1

30 10

◁ to Pola de Allande or ▷ for Hospitales


1.9km from the albergue in Borres the camino splits into two different routes. To the left is the lower, and in the winter the safer, route. To the right is the longer route to Montefurado via the mountains and past the ruins of two pilgrim hospitals.

In fact, it is usually better to follow the track to the left regardless of which route you intend. They both meet again in the town of La Mortera, but the left trail brings you to the lower part of town where the bar is. From there it is easy to see the way to Hospitales.

La Mortera


The distance from the fork in the road is to the upper portion of La Mortera. Just below is the rest of the town, and it's bar. This is the last bar, and source of water, for quite a distance for anybody following the route through hospital.

It is a quaint old bar, more of a shop. It always looks closed, to the point of leaving the lights off and abandoning all forms of contemporary signs indicating that it might be open. The only way to know for sure is to pull on the handle. Whether you like it or not, the kind woman who runs the place will kindly show you the way to Hospitales.

Beyond La Mortera, on the lower route to Pola de Allande, the camino makes several departures from the road only to return again. Until you reach Porciles, either route is acceptable. The road is longer but does not require as much climbing effort as the trail does.

Photo in La Mortera on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in La Mortera on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in La Mortera on the Camino de Santiago



Two friendly bars in town, one at the beginning and one at the end. Both have a stamp. The latter one is closed on Sundays and Saturday evenings.

Photo in Porciles on the Camino de Santiago

Alto de Chavadoira


At the Alto the Chavadoira the camino leaves the road on a track to your Left. From there it descends to Pola through Ferroy.

El Mazo


Turn left off the road towards the village of El Mazo.



Note that Peñasieta, AND the albergue, are not on the camino. Signs point the way and see the albergue notes on how to get a hold of the keys.

From Peñasieta, the climb begins. The preferred, and much more beautiful, route is along the trail so if you spent the night in Peñasieta avoid the temptation of following the road (even though it will get you there).

The elevation gain is about 800 meters up to the Alto de Palo, with a few particularly steep sections along the way.

Here are some marks (from Peñasieta):

2.3 km: Cluster of houses

4.3 km: Intersection with AS14. Do Not follow the road, instead, keep climbing a stretch of steep switchbacks. It is steep, but find solace in the fact that the road (even though it will get you there) is much longer.

5.4 km: Water trough for animals.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de Peñaseita

12 3 Photo in Albergue de Peñaseita on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Peñaseita on the Camino de Santiago

Alto de Palo


Welcome to the top. Be mindful of the way down, which is poorly signed.

The best way is to keep the road, and the guard rail, to your left while following the curve in the road. It soon joins a track and descends into Montefurado.



Montefurado is largely abandoned, apart from a few houses. One of them has a tap you can use for drinking water but ask first. There is also a small chapel dedicated to Santiago.

Pass through town and follow the trail to your left. You will have to step over a small wall. When the trail rejoins the road (AS-14) a few km onward, you can either stay on the track or follow along on the road to Lago.



The bar in town is pilgrim friendly and doubles as the local Alsa bus stop. Just beyond town the camino again leaves the road in favor of a trail to your right.



The Capilla de Santa Marina de Buspol is the only thing of note in Buspol. The weather here is frequently shrouded in a rainy mist which lasts about halfway into the descent that lies ahead.

NOTE: From Buspol it is almost entirely downhill to the dam of the reservoir, often very steep.

Buspol - Camino de Santiago - 9

Grandas de Salime


Grandas de Salime is the largest town since Salas and offers enough bars and shopping to last you a few hours. It also has an excellent museum which is highly recommended.

The Road ahead is along the highway for several parts, leaving and rejoining between towns.
Grandas de Salime - Camino de Santiago - 9
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de El Salvador (Grandas de Salime)
Costa, 20

28+20 5 Photo in Albergue de El Salvador (Grandas de Salime) on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de El Salvador (Grandas de Salime) on the Camino de Santiago
2 Hotel La Barra
Costa, 4

3 Pensión Arreigada
Pedro de Pedre, 9

4 Albergue Casa Sánchez
Dirección El Salvador

16 12
Things to see
Museo Etnográfico



Two bars in town, Casa Federico was welcoming to pilgrims.



Peñafuente sits at the top of a long gentle climb along the AS-28. It crosses through town to the right and follows a track above the road, and eventually intersects it. Cross the road and continue UP the track, NOT down towards Bustelo.