Camino Portugués Coastal Route | Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago

Porto

Distance to Santiago: 
240.40
2.10km
5.70kms.
Altitude: 
95

Porto is half the size of Lisbon, and twice as wonderful. It sits perched on the hillside on the north bank of the Rio Douro and has a historic center that would take two days minimum for only a casual stroll. If you plan on having a rest day, this is the town to do it in. If you had not planned on a rest day but had a long walk into Porto keep in mind that they way out of town is an arduous one too.

In Porto the buildings to see are the Igreja do Sao Pedro dos Clerigos and it's adjoining tower (4€, but the view from the top is unparalleled and 360°; don't bring your backpack with you as the 200 steps to the top are a tight enough squeeze as it is), the Igreja do Carmo (unassuming from the outside but spectacular inside), and of course the Sé do Porto (the Cathedral of Porto is one of the oldest surviving building in the city).

If you entered town along the upper bridge crossing you will have missed the Cais da Ribeira, the riverside boardwalk popular with tourists and locals alike. Somewhat overpriced but the atmosphere makes up for it.

Notice: 

Before you set off be certain to pick up a pilgrim’s credencial if you have not already done so. It can be found at the Sé Cathedral. This accordion-fold booklet is your passport to the camino and will become your most cherished souvenir of the trip. It is a required document in most pilgrim-specific accommodation, earns you pilgrim prices in many museums, and will serve as proof of your journey when presented to the Pilgrim Office in Santiago if you are planning on getting your Compostela Certificate.

As large towns go, Porto is no different when it comes to finding the camino. In fact, it is complicated somewhat by the fact that there are three different caminos between here and Santiago, be aware that you may see signs indicating the ‘Coastal Route’ or the ‘Braga Route,’ or the ‘Central Route’; amongst others.

The Road: 

Between Porto and the border with Spain the camino splits into three distinct routes. They are known as the Central Way, The Coastal Way, and The Braga Way. Additionally, there are several paths that connect each of these options, creating a network of trails that can sometimes seem confusing. The best plan is to pick one of the options and simply follow it to its natural end.

THE CENTRAL WAY: The Central Way is currently the most popular and well developed option. As the name implies, the route continues due north from Porto up the center of Portugal. It crosses into Spain at Valença/Túi and continues from there through Redondela to Santiago. This route is shown on the maps in GREEN.

THE COASTAL WAY: The Coastal Way is gaining in popularity as the infrastructure and signage improves. It is sometimes referred to as the Senda Litoral, although this name is technically reserved for the very first section of the route described in this guide from Porto to Vila do Conde. Various other guidebooks and maps may show the first day of walking from Porto to follow the Central Way before turning west towards the coast, other guidebooks might show it to follow the Central Way for several days before turning west to Fão. Neither of these options is incorrect, but I have chosen to describe The Coastal Way in a manner which follows the coast for as much as possible, beginning in Porto. This route is shown on the maps in BLUE.

THE BRAGA WAY: Some would consider this the original way, as it passes through the city of Braga where many of the churches earliest decisions regarding Santiago were made. It was the former capital of Galicia and an influential city. These days the infrastructure has not kept pace with the needs of pilgrims and the route is seldom traveled. Please note that this route is not included in this guide.

OPTIONS which deviate from the Green and Blue lines (which are the basis for all measurements shown) are shown in Red. These can sometimes indicate a previous camino route but are more commonly simple deviations through busy city centers.

There are two additional routes which connect the Central Way to the Coastal way, and they are indicated by a MAGENTA line on the maps for reference only. Services along these two routes are not given. Be advised that the markers for these trails are scarce and in many cases have been deliberately removed to prevent confusion among pilgrims.

History: 

Porto has a nice nickname among Portugues historians, who call it The Unvanquished City for having resisted the unlawful siege by King Miguel I. He wasn’t too keen on implementing the liberal constitution that was drafted after a local rebellion but after 18 months of attacking the city he abdicated the throne and the constitution was restored. It was a victory for the Enlightenment and those who sought to distance themselves from the traditional Roman Catholic values.

Photo in Porto on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Downtown Hostel
Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes, 66

Private
37 15 Photo in Downtown Hostel on the Camino de Santiago
2 Spot Hostel
Gonçalo Cristovão, 12

Private
42 17 Photo in Spot Hostel on the Camino de Santiago
3 The Poets Inn
Caldeireiros, 261

Private
10 No dormitories Photo in The Poets Inn on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in The Poets Inn on the Camino de Santiago
4 Andarilho Hostel
Firmeza, 364

Closed
40 15 Photo in Andarilho Hostel on the Camino de Santiago
5 Antas Ville
Vigorosa, 736

Hostal
30 13 Photo in Antas Ville on the Camino de Santiago
6 Gallery Hostel
Miguel Bombarda, 222

Private
40 22* Photo in Gallery Hostel on the Camino de Santiago
7 Tattva Design Hostel
Cativo 26-28

Private
116 15* Photo in Tattva Design Hostel on the Camino de Santiago
8 AHBV Porto
Rodrigues Sampaio, 153

Bombeiro
2 Donativo
9 Albergue do Peregrino Nossa Senhora do Rosário de Vilar
Arcediago Vanzeller 50

Parochial
12 23
10 Refúgio de Peregrinos ViaPortuscale
Vasco Santana, 264

Association
20 Donativo
11 Residencial Belo Sonho
Passos Manuel, 186

Pension
Photo in Residencial Belo Sonho on the Camino de Santiago
12 Hotel Peninsular
Sá da Bandeira, 21

Hotel
13 Hotel Universal
dos Aliados, 38

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Universal on the Camino de Santiago
14 Hotel do Norte
Fernandes Tomas, 579

Hotel
Photo in Hotel do Norte on the Camino de Santiago
15 Hotel Carris Porto Ribeira
Infante Dom Henrique, 1

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Carris Porto Ribeira on the Camino de Santiago
16 Porto Lounge Hostel
Almada, 317

Private
17* Photo in Porto Lounge Hostel on the Camino de Santiago
17 Oporto Sport Hostel
Santa Catarina, 313

Private

The Coastal Way - Leaving Porto

Distance to Santiago: 
0.00

The easiest starting point for leaving the city is the Cathedral. With your back to its main door (facing west) pass the tower, keeping it on your right and follow the ramp downhill. Jog left then right around the building that is at the bottom of the ramp and then look to your left for a set of stairs that take you down to the plaza in front of the Church of São Lourenço (until the 1750’s a Jesuit Church, and thereafter it was purchased by the Order of Saint Augustine, who brought with them from Lisbon the nickname ‘brothers of the site of cricket’, at which time the church became known simply as Grilos).

With your back to this São Lourenço, take the left most street (Rua de Santa Ana) to the intersection with Rua da Bainharia and turn left. Mere meters later follow the curve of the road left onto the Rua dos Mercadores (going the wrong way downhill on this one way street). This narrow street will take you all the way down to the Cais da Ribeira, Porto’s waterfront.

Turn right at the water and from here you are to keep the river to your left, following the coast all the way to Matasinhos. The way is fairly straightforward but is not marked with arrows, simply keep to the road nearest the coast, the Rua Nova da Alfandega. In the distance you can see the Arrábida Bridge (the A6) which you will pass under, at which point you will have been following the waterfront for 3km. In another 2.5 you will reach the mouth of the river and the Atlantic Ocean, in the area known as Foz do Douro; Porto’s most affluent suburb and your first glimpse of sandy beaches.

Matasinhos

Distance to Santiago: 
260.30
3.80km
Altitude: 
10
Notice: 

The Metro of Porto Line A (Linha de Matosinhos) ends at Matasinhos and is a convenient way to bypass the least exciting scenery when leaving Porto. It is also possible to arrive here via the Porto Airport with only one transfer, if you do not plan to see Porto.

The Road: 

The camino enters town along the beachfront, and turns inland when it reaches the harbor, making a zig zag path to the bridge over the Río Leça. At the end of the bridge you will turn left at the large roundabout, to follow the Rua Hintze Ribeiro back towards the waterfront.

Name booking.com
1 Hostal del Rei
Brito Capelo, 843

Hostal
2 Pensão Central
Brito Capelo, 599

Pension
3 Hotel Porto Mar
Brito Capelo, 169

Hotel

Boa Nova Lighthouse

Distance to Santiago: 
256.50
3.90km
Altitude: 
5

There is a bar at the group of buildings near the lighthouse, as well as the Capela de Boa Nova.

The Road: 

Passing the lighthouse, keep your gaze to the left, where you can enjoy a sea view far superior to the oil refinery to your right. Between here and the Obelisk you will follow off and on a walkway, passing several food options.

Obelisco da Memória

Distance to Santiago: 
252.60
3.70km
Altitude: 
5
The Road: 

From the Obelisk, keep on the beachside walkways straight ahead. You will pass several bar/restaurants along the way to the Angeiras Sea Houses.

Angeiras

Distance to Santiago: 
248.90
1.20km
Altitude: 
5

At the start of town are the Angeiras Sea Houses. If niche museums are your thing, these fisherman cottages are for you. Angeiras has a long history as a fishing village.

The Road: 

At the end of town, leave the road and rejoin the familiar wooden boardwalk, it will soon cross the Río Onda to rejoin the road into Labruge.

Name
1 Camping Orbitur Angeiras

Camping

Labruge

Distance to Santiago: 
247.50
1.20km
Altitude: 
10

Labruge is a small seaside town, and most services (including the albergue) are located off the camino.

The Road: 

At the end of town is the Avenida Da Libertade, turn right here to get to the albergue or continue straight along the beach walk. Arrows are sparse, but a few point the way to the Castro of Sampaio.

Name Beds
1 Albergue de S. Tiago
Labruge, 1720

Municipal
8

Castro of Sampaio

Distance to Santiago: 
246.30
1.20km
Altitude: 
15
The Road: 

The camino leaves the familiar beach setting but follows close to the shore while it climbs to reach the chapel and castro of San Paio. From here follow the walkway along the dunes to reach Facho - Vila Chã.

Vila Chã

Distance to Santiago: 
245.10
2.50km
Altitude: 
5
The Road: 

At the start of town the camino turns away from the shore and passes through the village, gone is the wooden boardwalk. It will stay some distance from the shore until Povoa de Varzim. The map on the opposite page shows the various options.

Name Beds
1 Albergue de S. Mamede
Sol, 4485-743

Municipal
10

Gafa

Distance to Santiago: 
242.60
2.50km
The Road: 

There are three ways from Gafa to Ávore, one along the waterfront and two which are set more inland.

Ávore

Distance to Santiago: 
240.10
1.80km
Altitude: 
15
The Road: 

From Ávore the walking is entirely along paved roads.

Azurara

Distance to Santiago: 
238.30
0.80km
Altitude: 
30
Notice: 

The Metro of Porto Line B (Linha da Póvoa) passes through Azurara. To stop here, disembark at the Azurara station, but note that one more stop takes you to Vila do Conde’s Santa Clara station.

The Road: 

Between Azurara and Vila do Conde flows the Rio Axe. Once over the bridge, turn left and walk along the park and Plaza de la Republica. At the end of the park follow straight (along the waterfront) until the next side street (the Rua do Lidador) where you turn right and uphill. At the top of hill there is an intersection of the old-town style, which is to say many directions all difficult to describe. Keep straight here, if somewhat to the right, and head towards the Igreja Matriz.

Vila do Conde

Distance to Santiago: 
237.50
3.80km
Altitude: 
10

Vila do Conde is the first town along the coastal route which merits an extended visit. It is a popular destination for the Portugese, though it is somewhat outsized by the larger Póvoa de Varzim to the north.

Its Bronze Age discoveries aside, the more contemporary sights to see are the Aqueduct of Santa Clara (17th and 18th century), whose 999 arches carry water some 4km to reach the Convent of Santa Clara (14th century), the Igreja Matriz in the city center, and the Forte de Nossa Senhora da Assunção (a fortress which often goes by Forte de São João Baptista).
The aqueduct and the convent are a right-hand turn after crossing the bridge, the fort is a bit out of the way, but does fall along one of the waterfront alternatives.

Fiesta: 

If you are hungry, and have 9 days to spare, the Feira de Gastronomia is held during the 3rd week of August.

A well known crafts fair, the Feira Nacional de Artesanato, is held between the last week of July and runs through the first week of August.

Friday is market day, held next to the church.

The Road: 

From the Igreja Matriz you have two options, the one indicated by the signs takes you through the center of this large town and carries on straight past the church. It is well marked.

The other option is to follow along the Litoral route which is unmarked but easy enough to get to. Opposite the church (on your left as you approach the church) is a small plaza, cross it and follow to the right. Turn left on the second street, the Largo de Doutor Antonío José Almeida. This will take you down to the waterfront, where you turn right and follow the walk all the way to Povoa de Varzim. Just past the harbor the beachfront picks up, and it is here where the main route rejoins.

History: 

Vila do Conde is among the oldest known settlements in Portugal, with discoveries in and near the city which date to more than 100,000 years ago. More recently it was a sea port that played a critical role in Portugal’s 16th century Age of Discovery. King Manuel I passed through on his pilgrimage to Santiago in 1502, a visit which subsequently saw the construction of the Igreja Matriz and several other notable buildings.

Name Beds booking.com
1 Albergue Santa Clara
5 de Octubre, 221

Municipal
25
2 Pensão Patarata 3
Cais das Lavandeiras, 18

Pension
3 Erva Doce Guest House
Cais das Lavandeiras, 39

Casa Rural
4 Hotel Brazao
Dr. Joao Canavarro

Hotel

Povoa de Varzim

Distance to Santiago: 
233.70
3.80km
Altitude: 
5

Povoa is one of Portugal’s most popular seaside resorts, with plenty of hotels, shopping and even casinos to show for it. All were built to support tourists who flock to the nearly 12km of beachs. A rich collection of artifacts relating to Povoa’s rich seafaring history are on display at the Ethnography and History Museum of Póvoa de Varzim.

Notice: 

The Metro of Porto Line B (Linha da Póvoa) terminates here.

The Road: 

The entirety of the walk between Póvoa and A Ver-o-Mar can be done along the coast, following the shoreline. Shortly before arriving in A Ver-o-Mar the signs are unclear. If you get to a large soccer field (no grass) you want it to be on your right, but it will likely be on your left. If it is on your right, the way is across a small bridge. If it is on your left, simply turn left at the end of the field and keep on straight, across a different bridge but one which will likewise take you across a small sandy stretch into A Ver-o-Mar.

Name Price booking.com
1 Albergue São José de Ribamar
Mouzinho de Albequerque, 11

Municipal
Donativo
2 Hostal Sardines and Friends
da Ponte, 4

Hostal
3 Hotel Luso Brasileiro
dos Cafés, 16

Hotel
4 Grande Hotel
Alegre, 20

Hotel

A Ver-o-Mar

Distance to Santiago: 
229.90
1.80km
Altitude: 
5
The Road: 

At the far end of town, the camino turns right, and then left again to follow the road. A short distance ahead it turns right once more, on the very last street in town. DO NOT GO STRAIGHT HERE. Rather turn right and then left again on the first street. This street will curve sharply left at the very start of Santo André.

Santo André

Distance to Santiago: 
228.10
1.70km
Altitude: 
10

Santo André is the chapel located up the first street on your right-hand side. There is a bar at the hotel and another on the way to the chapel.

History: 

The camino splits once more at the start of Santo André. You can either follow the coast or turn right towards the chapel, and then left at the first roundabout onto the Rua Santo Andre de Cima. The latter course will take you through quiet residential areas interspersed with vegetable patches and a few services.

Name booking.com
1 Estalagem Santo Andre
Avenida de Santo André

Hotel

Aguçádoura

Distance to Santiago: 
226.40
7.00km
Altitude: 
10
The Road: 

Follow the camino along the coast. Shortly before arriving to Apúlia the camino splits, and this time the preferred route (for being more direct) takes you away from the beach.

Fão

Distance to Santiago: 
215.70
2.30km
Altitude: 
10
The Road: 

Crossing the Rio Cávado from Fão to Esposende is done via bridge, take your time as the pedestrian section of the bridge is quite narrow. At the end of the bridge turn left, and at the next roundabout keep to your left into Esposende.

Name Price
1 Pousada de Juventude - Ofir
Bom Jesus - Fão

Private
9/11*

Esposende

Distance to Santiago: 
213.40
4.70km
Altitude: 
5

Esposende is another popular summer resort town, though one which is much more subdued than cities to the south.

The Road: 

There are multiple ways through town, and once out of town the camino splits again, offering several ways to get to the Ponte do Sebastião crossing into Viana do Castelo. The following pages offer an overview of the way. NOTE: The coastal variants are no longer recommended, as the way is unmarked and among the dunes, and several of the bridge crossings are at times not good. You are advised to stick to the marked trail.

Name booking.com
1 Hotel Suave Mar
Eng. Eduardo Arantes e Oliveira

Hotel
2 Hotel Mira Rio
Ponte D. Luis Filipe, 113

Hotel
3 Hotel Zende
Dr. Henrique Barros Lima

Hotel

Viana do Castelo

Distance to Santiago: 
187.40
4.90km
Altitude: 
10

The wealth of Viana do Castelo’s rich trading history has left us with several notable buildings and defensive structures. Among them are the Sé Cathedral, the Castelo de Santiago da Barra, the Church of Santa Luzia (take the funicular up the hill for 3€ round trip, and enjoy an incredible view of the city), and lastly the hidden gem of a church that is the Misericórdia of Viana do Castelo whose mixture of gold and azulejos tiling are not to be missed.

Fiesta: 

In the end of August the citizens of Viana (and many more tourists) turn of for the Feasts of Nossa Senhora da Agonia. It is a romeria of sorts and takes place over 3 days in celebration of the Virgen of Agony, the Virgen of choice for fisherman going out to sea.

The Road: 

Leave the centro historico of Viana do Castelo from the main square E. Head north from the fountain (keep the length of the square to your left) and follow the pedestrianized and tree lined street (the Passeio das Mordomas da Romaria) to the first intersection. Turn left there to follow in the same direction as traffic along the Rua Candido Dos Reis/Luis do Rego. The road ends at the Park and Garden of Dom Fernando, turn right and at the next intersection keep as straight as possible to what looks like a dead end road. Arrows here will direct you down steps and underneath a busy avenida.

At the top of the stairs on the other end keep going straight (you will have turned right just before climbing the stairs). DO NOT follow this road all the way to the busy avenida. Instead, turn left uphill and against traffic along the first street. It is signed as a dead end road. Follow it to the underpass.

As you exit the underpass you will be in a more residential neighborhood. Turn left at the first street which is directly in front of you, the Rua Dom Moisés Alves de Pinho. From here you continue straight for several kilometers to leave town.

The way passes through several narrow streets and cobbled lanes but is well marked. The Quinta da Boa Viagem is the next obvious landmark in Areosa.

History: 

Viana do Castelo, until 1848 known as Viana da Foz do Lima, was an important shipping town and critical port of entry during the Age of Discovery. Later, in the age of cod, it became Portugal’s second largest center of commerce and trading.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Peregrinos São João dos Caminhos
Igreja do Carmo

Parochial
2 Hotel Calatrava
Manuel Fiúza Júnior, 157

Hotel
3 Hotel Do Parque
Praça da Galiza

Hotel
4 Zimborio Guest House
Rua Gago Coutinhol

Casa Rural
5 Pousada de Juventude - Viana do Castelo
Rua de Limia

Private
40 9/10*

Areosa

Distance to Santiago: 
182.50
3.60km
Altitude: 
45
The Road: 

After passing the Quinta da Boa Viagem, take the first road on your right. The next arrow is low on the curb and has you turn left and you will soon find yourself on a country road flanked by forests on both sides. Were the forest ends the road you have been following takes a sharp bend to the left, but the camino turns to the right to follow a narrow track.

When the track emerges it wil turn right along the Rua do Louvado and then keep to your left to walk along the cobbled path with stone walls on either side. When the road opens up again there are several roads to choose from, and the one you want is the second from the right. It will take you uphill slowly but steadily until it reaches a fork in the road, at which point the camino takes a turn to the left and downhill, again between two walls.

A short distance on it take the first road on the right. The arrows in these parts are well defined and the camino will eventually emerge in Carreço. A bridge over the railway will appear on your left and it marks your arrival.

Carreço

Distance to Santiago: 
178.90
6.10km
Altitude: 
40
Notice: 

All services in Carreço are located along the main road. To get there you will need to turn left to cross the railway, and follow the road downhill to the roundabout. Turn left at the roundabout, heading south (with the water on your right).

The Road: 

If you choose to keep on the camino through Carreço, turn away from the bridge and keep to the east of the tracks. It won't be long before the camino turns back to the tracks and crosses at a level crossing. It will arrive at the church and pass behind it. Arrows are scarce to non-existent here, just keep to this same road a short distance until it merges with a larger road and turn right towards the train station.

Where this road ends turn right and back over the railway in the direction of "Paço - Carreço". A short distance on the camino turns left at the second street, there is an arrow and a marker for the PR8 hiking trail. Arrows will guide you through town, past the albergue, and at the last junction at the last house in town, keep left and into the forest. The way is anything but straight but is well indicated.

You will emerge from the forest at the edge of the town of Afife, and subsequently skirts around the town thereby avoiding all of the services available there. The way is marked and winding along cobbled roads. It will make its way over a small river and continue to climb up through the forest to a road and the stone cross cruzeiro.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue Casa do Sardão
Avenida de Paço, 769

Private
10 13

Cruzeiro

Distance to Santiago: 
172.80
4.10km
Altitude: 
140
The Road: 

The Cruzeiro marks a high point, and it is downhill from here to Vila Praia de Âncora.

Vila Praia de Âncora

Distance to Santiago: 
168.70
8.30km
Altitude: 
15

Âncora is a medium sized with with all services, apart from an albergue de peregrinos.

The Road: 

To find your way from Ancora, make your way to the waterfront. The camino follows the road adjacent to it, and where the yellow bike lanes begin you have the option of crossing to the right-hand side of the road, but keep an eye open for where the bike path turns left as you want to follow it to where it ends. From there continue along the dirt track, with the railway to your right for a short distance.

You will pass the the Capela de Santa Isodoro on your left. The path will turn to a road as it enters the first suburbs of Caminha, and where the road ends at another turn right. You are at the beach now and a short distance later turn right and pass under the railway. Once back to the main road turn left and continue towards Caminha.

Where the camino arrives at a large roundabout with the N13, take the third exit along the Rua de Pombal (NOT over the railway). The road will eventually twist to pass over the tracks and from there it proceeds directly to Camina, arriving at the main square, the Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres.

Name booking.com
1 Hotel Meira
Rua 5 de Outubro, 56

Hotel
2 Albergaria Quim Barreiros
Dr. Ramos Pereira, 115

Pension
3 Pension Abrigo do Portinho
Pescadores, 18

Pension

Caminha

Distance to Santiago: 
160.40
0.80km
Altitude: 
10

Caminha is the last town in Portugal, from here it is a 1.7 swim or a quick ferry across the estuary. It is here that the Atlantic meets the Río Miño, making for the ideal natural boundary.

The main square (Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres) makes for the perfect place to rest the afternoon or while away the evening. At its northern edge stands the Torre do Relogio, where a euro affords you access to the best view in town. Further north, and adjacent to the old defensive walls, is the Igreja Matriz de Caminha.

Notice: 

At the far end of town the road meets a roundabout and crosses a smaller river by way of a bridge. DO NOT CROSS THE BRIDGE. Arrows here may still exist, and if they do they are pointing the way to Tui, which is not likely your destination. Instead, turn back towards the harbor; signed "Ferry Boat".

The Road: 

***
At Caminha there is a ferry-boat, the Santa Rita de Cássia, to cross the river Minho to Galicia (ferry ticket/booking is 1€). The ferry schedule varies depending on the season (Sept 2015 –30 June 2016 was from 9am to 7pm). Check the most up to date timetable beforehand: http://www.cm-caminha.pt/ver.php?cod=1E0C

NB Please note that at times the Caminha-A Guarda ferry is not operational due to maintenance work but alternatively, at Caminha beach, you will find boats taking passengers across the river Minho for a reasonable fee (5-10€) most of the day (until 6pm in the evening approximately). Walk towards Caminha beach/the marina at the Foz do Minho restaurant.
***

Name Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Peregrinos Caminha
Padre Pinheiro, 36

Municipal
5
2 Residencial Galo d'Ouro
Corredoura, 15

Pension
3 Design&Wine Hotel
Praça do Conselheiro Silva Torres, 8

Hotel
4 Residencial Arca Nova
Largo Dr. Sidónio Pais

Pension
5 Pension Muralha de Caminha
Barão de S. Roque, 69

Pension

Ferry from Caminha

Distance to Santiago: 
159.60
1.70km

The Santa Rita de Cássia is your ferry across the river, and the 20 minute journey costs 1€. The schedule varies with the tide, which makes it impossible to print here. If you stayed the night here ask at your albergue/hotel, otherwise make your way down to the harbor to check.

Camposancos

Distance to Santiago: 
157.90
3.50km
Altitude: 
5
Notice: 

Change the time on your watch/phone/sundial/wind-up alarm clock. Spain is one hour ahead, so assuming you wake up at the same hour as the day before you will find things to be darker than usual.

The Road: 

From the ferry terminal in Camposancos you can choose to take an alternative route that circumnavigates the peninsula to the south, adding about 4km to the journey but adding some great views.

Otherwise turn left from the ferry terminal to follow the water a short distance to the first road, turning right and uphill on the Camino del Palomar. Note that this is not the road that is marked A Guarda 2km. That road, marked red on the map, is a possibility though not the camino.

The Camino del Palomar continues more or less straight uphill, turning only to pass around a large apartment block. At the top, if first crosses the road before turning left. A dozen meters on keep to the right along a smaller road, at which poing you are heading south rather unnaturally. The camino turns itself around by turning right and then right again to follow a series of roads and trails around the Monte de Santa Trega.

It eventually returns to the A Guarda road mentioned above and turns left into town. Entering this way means that you will stay at the upper half of the town, and a few variations exist which allow you to descend and then ascend.

A Guarda

Distance to Santiago: 
154.40
1.20km
Altitude: 
35

A Guarda prides itself on serving the freshest catch-of-the day seafood in Galicia.

The Road: 

Leave A Guarda along the Rúa Puerto Rico, passing the municipal albergue. The arrows are poor here and the best way is to keep an eye out for a sign indicating the way to Playa Area Granda, a left turn off the Rúa Puerto Rico.

Follow this road all the way to the sea and turn right. Ahead is a small beach, followed by a curve in the road, and then a slightly larger beach. This is the Area Grande..

History: 

A Guarda's single most important natural landmark is the mountain peak to the south, the Monte de Santa Trega. If you choose to make the hike to the top you will be rewarded with more than great views. On the way up is an Iron Age Celtic hill fort and museum, and at the top a small chapel.

Name booking.com
1 Albergue de Peregrinos
Puerto Rico, 7

Municipal
2 Hotel Celta
Galicia, 53

Hotel
3 Hotel Vila da Guarda
Tomiño, 8

Hotel
4 Hotel Eli-Mar
Vicente Sobrino, 12

Hotel

Area Grande

Distance to Santiago: 
153.20
5.60km
Altitude: 
5
The Road: 

From the Area Grande beach keep to your left and through the car park. Where the car park ends the path narrows, and a smaller trail to your left presents itself. Follow it along the coast.

About 1.2km later the camino turns right at a large house, rising uphill to the main road but turning left just before reaching it. The idea here is to again keep off the busy road by means of a few side roads, twisting and turning a bit but eventually returning to the main road once more.

When it does so you can follow along a dedicated bike/hike path. It will pass a car park/lookout point before turning left off the road and then right again to parallel the road all the way into Portocelos.

Name booking.com
1 Hostal del Mar
Baixada á Praia

Hostal

Portocelos

Distance to Santiago: 
147.60
6.00km
Altitude: 
35
The Road: 

From Portocelos, continue along the same secondary road parallel to the main road. It will invariably return to the main road, once again following the dedicated bike/hike path adjacent to the road.

Where the curb barrier ends the camino veers left away from the road and into Oia.

Oia

Distance to Santiago: 
141.60
4.50km
Altitude: 
10
The Road: 

The path through Oia takes you past all of the imporant stuff; first the Casa Puerta, then the restaurant, and then the Monastery of Oia.

300m beyond the Monastery the camino turns left to follow a coastal footpath and always keeping to the shorline. You will eventuall return to the road, and when you do the familiar bicycle path is there once more, follow it to the left and into Viladesuso.

Name booking.com
1 Casa Puertas
Vicente Lopez, 7

Casa Rural
2 Hotel A Raíña
A Riña, 21

Hotel

Villadesuso

Distance to Santiago: 
137.10
2.00km
Altitude: 
20
The Road: 

The Hotel Glasgos is the first building in town, and just beyond it is a Repsol station. Just beyond that the camino crosses the main road and turns right uphill.

At then end of this short road it jogs right then left again to keep on the path that is marked for bicycles. Follow this path across a river, and then take the first right uphill and away from the main road.

Where this uphill climb ends, turn left. Follow this road, eyes to your left to enjoy the view and so that you can spot the turn off to the left, marked only by a yellow and a red arrow on the road itself. It merges with another path and then reaches an intersection, where a left turn takes you back down in the direction of the main road.

Just a few meters short of the main road turn right on a narrow lane parallel to it, saving you a few meters of the road and keeping you on the marked bike path which eventually returns to the road, crosses the road, and continues along it.

Cross the bridge into Mougas and turn left towards the sea on the first road.

Name booking.com
1 Hotel Glasgow
O Serallo, 7

Hotel
2 Hotel Costa Verde
O Serallo, 51

Hotel

Mougás

Distance to Santiago: 
135.10
5.30km
Altitude: 
10
The Road: 

The camino from Mougas to As Mariñas follows the now familiar pattern of following the bike/hike path as it parallels the road, occassionally departing from it.

Along the way you will pass the O Muino campsite on your left, the defunct OMAR3 restaurant, and the confusingly named Mougas Campsite (and Albergue Solidario) on your left.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue Turístico Aguncheiro
Mougás, km 28

Private
18 10

As Mariñas

Distance to Santiago: 
129.80
1.90km
Altitude: 
35
Notice: 

A short distance before arriving to As Mariñas the camino splits into two routes. The trail turns off the main road in favor of a hiking trail that bypasses the winding shorline road. Directions for the trail are given below, and following the road along the coast is as easy as that, all the way to Baiona.

The Road: 

The camino takes a right turn off of the main road before arriving to As Mariñnas and the Hotel Talaso. The arrows are not very generous here so keep an eye open for the turnoff; if you get to the hotel you've gone too far.

The climb ahead is both steep and beautiful but not terribly high in altitude. It is at times a bit of a scramble in parts, in part because of the rocky terrain as well as mucky from mountain streams. It will take you to the small village of Baredo.

Name booking.com
1 Hotel Talaso Atlántico
As Mariñas

Hotel

Baredo

Distance to Santiago: 
127.90
4.10km
The Road: 

Arrows will lead you through and out of Baredo, across a small river (the low point) and then back uphill for a short distance to the asphalt road and turn left, passing the the Os da Ponte restaurant. Follow it to the first road on your right and veer uphill, you'll be sharing the camino with another hiking trail indicated by red and white bars.

This road will come to a small intersection, and here the camino turns sharply right and uphill. Where it meets the road again, turn left sharply back in the direction of Baiona.

The next big junction is with a larger road, and the camino turns left to cross a tall bridge over the AG57 highway. Once on the other side it leaves the larger road to the right (near a play park and picnic area and cruceiro), turn there and keep to the right.

Here the arrows improve and you wind your way, always downhill, to the first major roundabout in many many kilometers. Turn right at the roundabout and then take the next left, passing counterclockwise around the football field which is on your left. At the far corner of the field, turn right and into the pedestrian zone. Ahead is the Plaza Santa Liberata, and two beautiful churches.

At the end of the second church, Santa Maria de Baiona (sello available), turn left down the steps and at the bottom turn right, and then immediately left again. You are in the Old Town, and are making your towards the waterfront but not quite to it, the camino proper keeps to the pedestrian area.

Baiona

Distance to Santiago: 
123.80
4.70km
Altitude: 
15

Baiona has a charming old town which is well preserved, and a waterfront which has a few well protected beaches. Although there is no pilgrim albergue here, it remains a favorite stopping point.

Its two most recognizable churches, the Ex-colegiata Santa Maria and the Capela de Santa Liberata (concecrated in honor of the martyred daughter of Baiona and the first women to be crucified) are at the start of town along the camino.

If you do stay here, work up the strength for an extra 2km hike around the peninsula. You will be rewarded with excellent views from the Fortaleza de Monterreal. The Museo de la Carabela Pinta is also located near the outcropping, and offers a terrifying glimpse of what global exploration was really like in the 15th century.

Fiesta: 

The city celebrates the return of La Pinta during the first week of March, during the 15th century market festival known as the Fiesta de la Arribada.

The Road: 

The camino leaves Baiona along the Rúa Ventura Misa, the old town road that is set inland from the main road which follows the coast. It is possible to follow the main road out of town and all the way to Ramallosa.

The arrows are abundant and will take you past and over a pair of small rivers, first the Río da Baíña and then the Río da Groba. It makes the crossing to Ramallosa along an ancient stone now-pedestrian bridge adjacent to the main road. Once over it turns right then left again.

History: 

On the 1st of March, 1493, Baiona became the first Old World town to learn of the successful journey made by Christopher Columbus to the New World. It was here that La Pinta arrived, captained by Martín Alonso Pinzón, the true brain behind the voyage. The news reached Spain three days before Columbus would arrive, separated by weather, at the port of Lisbon. At the town of of Baiona celebrated, the King and Queen remained unaware of eithers arrival.

Name booking.com
1 Hotel Carabela La Pinta
Camino Entrehortas

Hotel
2 Hotel Pinzon
Elduayen, 21

Hotel
3 Hotel Rompeolas
Joselín, 8

Hotel
4 Parador de Baiona
Monterreal

Parador

Ramallosa

Distance to Santiago: 
119.10
3.80km
Altitude: 
5
The Road: 

The arrow through Ramallosa take you uphill in the direction of Nigrán, and at the top of the short hill is the Albergue Pazo de Pias. Turn right at the albergue.

The camino here is well indicated by arrows, and follows along a bramble of winding side streets as it makes its way uphill. At the end of a paved holloway it emerges to a small roundabout and turns left along a sidewalk and towards an elevated crossing of the highway. Avoid the urge to make a surface crossing, to your right is a highway tollbooth and drivers in the area are frequently distracted in their search for spare coins.

Turn left after crossing (effectively you have done nothing more than cross straight over the intersection) and when you get to the second roundabout the camino continues straight; the road narrows here and the town of Nigrán (set off from the camino) is to your left.

Name booking.com
1 Albergue Pazo de Pias
Camiño da Cabreira

Private

Nigrán

Distance to Santiago: 
115.30
14.80km
Altitude: 
30
The Road: 

Nigrán sits due west of the camino, to get there turn left on the first road after the camino path narrows near the roundabout mentioned above.

Otherwise keep on straight. The camino makes several crossings with busier roads, and when it does there exist a few options for stopping (bars, parks, etc). The way is well indicated, and the only possible confusion is a detour off the camino the the private Freixo albergue.

You have several more kilometers of winding country roads before you emerge from the forest at the outskirts of Vigo. Arrows guide the way but as you are back into an industry heavy zone they require a bit more work to spot. They bring you to Castrelos Park, on the south side of Vigo.

Castrelos Park

Distance to Santiago: 
100.50
3.80km
Altitude: 
20
The Road: 

Vigo is the largest city in Galicia, and the largest you will have seen since Porto. It is spread out across a large hillside and can divided into an upper and lower half (Alto and Bajo). The marked camino trail keeps strictly to the upper half. The way through the park is pleasant, and for a distance after you follow along the river. A series of bridge crossings, and pedestrian crossings, take you over the river and eventually across the massive A55 divided highway. Once on the other side of the A55 you continue uphill, turning left to follow a paved path around the Parque de San Roque which stands to your left. Opposite its entrance turn right.

Parking spaces are a premium here, and Spaniards are fond of parking on the stripes, making for a bit of a challenge to find your way. Thankfully they have painted arrows high up on the light poles.

A few more crossings and soon you'll be on the Ruá de Urzáiz, Upper Vigo's pedestrian shopping street.

Vigo

Distance to Santiago: 
96.70
14.50km
Altitude: 
100

Vigo, from the diminutive Roman word for small village, is no longer deserving of the name. It is now the largest city in Galicia which is a remarkable feat given that it didn't start to see any real growth until the end of the 19th century. When it did begin to grow, it did so with reckless abandon and is now something of a disorganized city.

The Road: 

Departing Vigo is a simple affair, and it provides much better scenery than the way into the city. Follow the pedestrian Ruá de Urzáiz to the Rúa de Toledo (which is one street before it ends), and turn left. You will cross the Rúa de Jenaro de la Fuente and continue straight, keeping on Toledo and passing the Parroquia De La Inmaculada Concepción on your left. At the next junction turn right to keep on Toledo.

Rúa de Toledo ends at the Rúa Cantabria, where you will turn left and follow the arrows as they direct you across the N560. Once on the other side, continue along the Rúa Cantabria. It will take you past a small park and play area for children and beyond. Eventually, it will arrive at a fork, veer right and uphill now walking on the Rúa Pouleira which you follow as it twists and turns. Soon it begins to turn back on itself and from here it heads into the forest. A short distance later it turns left and follows along the highway which is high up on the hill on your right-hand side; to your left is the estuary and you are high enough up now to have a wide view of it. When you eventually turn away from the water, you pass over the highway which tunnels beneath you. From here the camino stays inland, winding its way through the suburban hillside until it joins with the Central Way just before entering Redondela.

History: 

Unlike many of the port cities to the south, Vigo didn't garner much attention during the Age of Discovery; such are the currents. The Vikings took a liking to it though, and so too did both Francis Drake and the French Army. The city didn't see much peace until the middle of the 17th century when Philip IV built defensive walls to protect it; though even still the British managed to occupy it for a week.

Centuries later it would be the Age of Cod that would put Vigo on the map, followed still later by heavy industry.

Name
1 Albergue de Peregrinos O Freixo
Estrada Regueiro-Valadares

Private
2 Hotel Hesperia Vigo
Florida, 60

Hotel
3 Hostal los Tres Países
Venezuela, 61

Hostal
4 Hotel Sol Por
Vía Nte, 9

Hotel
5 Kaps Hostel Vigo
Emilia Pardo Bazán, 12

Private

Redondela

Distance to Santiago: 
83.70
2.80km
Altitude: 
15

Getting into town and out again is straightforward. There is an alternative route that is signed, which takes you through town closer to the river.

As a city, Redondela has its charms. It sits well inland of the Vigo estuary and is bisected by two massive train bridges, both a testament to how much material has flowed through town.

The Road: 

When leaving town, the camino crosses the N550 at a bottleneck on the north side of town that is heavy with traffic at all hours. Cross the N550 as soon as you get to it, and almost immediately veer left gently onto a side road.

The arrows from here leave a bit to be desired. They are present, but have been spray painted with a not quite right yellow and at times, they don’t feel legit. Follow them all the same, and as you near Cesantes the stone markers return.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 El Camino
Telmo Bernárdez, 11

Private
40 12 Photo in El Camino on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue de Peregrinos (Casa da Torre)
Praza de Ribadavia

Xunta
42 6
3 A Casa da Herba de Redondela
Isidoro Queimaliños, 35

Private
24 12
4 Albergue Rosa d'Abreu
Queimaliños, 33

Private
6 15
5 Albergue Alfonso XII
Alfonso XII, 22

Private
4 15
6 Albergue Santiago Apóstol
Telmo Bernárdez, 15

Parochial
30 10
7 Albergue A Conserveira
Pai Crespo, 60

Private
38 10