Camino Francés in Palencia | Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago

Castilla y León / Palencia

765

Crossing the Puente Fitero brings you into the province of Palencia. The bridge here has survived the years but others to the south have long since disappeared, taking with them the pilgrims whose commerce helped to build several uncharacteristically large churches along the way.

Palencia Flag

Itero de la Vega

Distance to Santiago: 
432.60
8.20km
Altitude: 
771

The Iglesia parroquial de San Pedro Apóstol (at the entrance to town) has an image of Santiago Peregrino.

We can learn a bit about the name of the town, the name of the river, and the word for the stones that mark the camino. They all derive from hito (Fitero, Itero, and hito), which describes a stone that has been driven into the ground, and which is used to indicate a frontier or boundary.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Peregrinos de Itero del Castillo
Plaza del Ayuntamiento

Municipal
7 5
2 Albergue de Itero La Mochilla
Santa Ana, 3

Private
20 8 Photo in Albergue de Itero "La Mochilla" on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Puente Fitero
Plaza Virgen del Pilar

Municipal
12 5 Photo in Albergue Puente Fitero on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Puente Fitero on the Camino de Santiago
4 Albergue Hogar del Peregrino
Santa María, 17

Private
7 12

Boadilla del Camino

Distance to Santiago: 
424.40
5.40km
Altitude: 
783

The fields surrounding Boadilla are dotted with adobe palomares (dovecotes). Find your way towards one and explore the interior, which holds thousand of niches.

Adjacent to the town square is the Romanesque Iglesia de la Asunción and a well preserved Rollo de Justicia, a 15th century stone column to which criminals were chained while their punishments were meted out.

The best albergue in town (also in the square) is worth a visit even if you don’t plan to stay there. Behind the unpretentious walls is a garden oasis complete with a pool and art.

The Road: 

The camino leaving Boadilla soon joins a path that runs alongside the Canal de Castilla. You will follow along the canal until the outskirts of Frómista, where you cross at one of the locks. This canal was used for both transportation and irrigation.

Boadilla del Camino - Camino de Santiago - 1Boadilla del Camino - Camino de Santiago - 1
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Boadilla del Camino
Escuelas

Municipal
12 3
2 Albergue En el Camino
Francos, 3

Private
48 7 Photo in Albergue En el Camino on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue En el Camino on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Putzu

Private
16 8
4 Albergue Titas
Mayor, 7

Private
12 10 Boadilla del Camino - Albergue Titas
5 Hotel En el Camino
Francos, 3

Hotel
Photo in Hotel En el Camino on the Camino de Santiago

Frómista

Distance to Santiago: 
419.00
3.30km
Altitude: 
783

Frómista is the southernmost city along the camino francés and the epicenter of wheat growing in Spain. Its rises and falls over the centuries were finally steadied with the arrival of the canals in the late 18th century; they brought proper irrigation and an abundant source of power for mills.

In the center of town sits the Iglesia de San Martín, which underwent a rather unfortunate renovation in the 19th century. In the process, many of the more artistic elements were removed for reasons of decency. Quite a few decorated capitals make for an interesting, if not amusing, visit. Two other churches, San Pedro and Santa María del Castillo, are generally open to the public.

Fiesta: 

Friday is Market day.

The Road: 

Leaving Frómista is accomplished by retracing a few steps to the main intersection, do not blindly make your way through town and if you plan to leave before the sun rises do yourself the favor of scouting for arrows in advance. The trail here follows a gravel path punctuated by frequent “twin hitos” that are placed to discourage off-road vehicles from taking over the path.

History: 

Pedro Gonzáles Telmo, patron saint of sailors and the namesake of the expression Saint Elmo’s Fire, hails from Frómista.

Photo in Frómista on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Frómista on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Frómista on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Fromista
Hospital

Municipal
56 8 Photo in Albergue de Fromista on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Estrella del Camino
Ejército Español

Private
34 8 Photo in Albergue Estrella del Camino on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Estrella del Camino on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Canal de Castilla
La Estación, 2

Private
16 15*
4 Albergue Betania
Ejército Español, 26

Private
5 Donativo Photo in Albergue Betania on the Camino de Santiago
5 Hotel Doña Mayor
Francesa, 31

Hotel
6 Hostal San Pedro
Ejército Español, 8

Hostal
Photo in Hostal San Pedro on the Camino de Santiago
7 Hostal Camino de Santiago
Ejército Español, 26

Hostal
Photo in Hostal Camino de Santiago on the Camino de Santiago
8 Pensión Mabel
Plaza de Tuy, 2

Pension
9 Hotel San Martín
Plaza San Martín, 7

Hotel
10 Hostal El Apóstol
Ejército Español, 5

Hostal
Photo in Hostal El Apóstol on the Camino de Santiago
11 Pension La Via Lactea
Julio Senador, 1

Pension

‌ALTERNATE ROUTE to Villalcázar via Villovieco

The camino follows the road out of Población, over the bridge and along the same type of path that brought you into town. An alternative route bypasses the next two towns (Revenga and Villarmentero) and follows a quieter trail alongside the river.

Villalcázar de Sirga

Distance to Santiago: 
406.10
6.00km
Altitude: 
807

The Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca dominates the hillside of Villálcazar. Its appearance, that of a church/fortress, can be attributed to having belonged to the Knights Templar. King Alfonso X claimed that the White Virgin here had cured pilgrims, she is still there if you are in need of a miracle.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue Villalcázar de Sirga
Plaza del Peregrino

Municipal
20 Donativo Photo in Albergue Villalcázar de Sirga on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Don Camino
Real, 23

Private
28 8 Photo in Albergue Don Camino on the Camino de Santiago
3 Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor
Condes de Toreno

Hostal
24 Photo in Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor on the Camino de Santiago
4 Hostal Las Cantigas
Doctor Durango, 2

Hostal
Photo in Hostal Las Cantigas on the Camino de Santiago
5 Casas Rurales Don Camino
Real, 1

Casa Rural
6 Casa abuela Gaspara I
Cantarranas, 20

Casa Rural

Carrión de los Condes

Distance to Santiago: 
400.10
17.00km
Altitude: 
835

The Café Bar España serves as the local bus stop, should you find yourself in need of motorized transport inquire at the bar for schedules.

Fiesta: 

The Feast day of San Zoilo is celebrated on the 22nd of August. Market day is Thursday.

Notice: 

CAUTION - When leaving Carrión de los Condes it is extremely important to stock up on water. 17km separate it from Calzadilla de la Cueza, with little protection from the sun or wind. In recent years, a roadside kiosk has sprung up at the halfway point, but there are no guarantees that it will be open.

History: 

Carrión de los Condes has a rich and prosperous, to say nothing of colorful, history. Located at the intersection of the Pilgrimage road and the Río Carrión it attracted merchants and a sizable population. Charlemagne is reported to have used the fields along the river as an encampment on his quest to control the pilgrimage route. Over a dozen pilgrim hospices once called Carrión home, and to this day you will find that many of the albergues are under the care of one religious order or another, the nuns of Santa María are known to sing to pilgrims.

Photo in Carrión de los Condes on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Carrión de los Condes on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Carrión de los Condes on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 El Edén

Camping
2 Albergue de Peregrinos Parroquia de Santa Maria
Clérigo Pastor, 6

Parochial
54 5 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos Parroquia de Santa Maria on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Espíritu Santo
Plaza de San Juan, 4

Private
90 5 Photo in Albergue Espíritu Santo on the Camino de Santiago
4 Monasterio de Santa Clara
Santa Clara, 1

Parochial
30 5 Photo in Monasterio de Santa Clara on the Camino de Santiago
5 Hostal Santiago
Plaza de los Regentes, 8

Hostal
34 Photo in Hostal Santiago on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Hostal Santiago on the Camino de Santiago
6 Hostal La Corte
Plaza de los Regentes, 8

Hostal
Photo in Hostal La Corte on the Camino de Santiago
7 Apartamentos Casa Tía Paula
Obispo Souto, 8

Casa Rural
Photo in Apartamentos Casa Tía Paula on the Camino de Santiago
8 Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo
Obispo Souto

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo on the Camino de Santiago
9 Hostal Albe
Esteban Collantes, 21

Hostal

Calzadilla de la Cueza

Distance to Santiago: 
383.10
6.20km
Altitude: 
859

Calzadilla’s Iglesia de San Martín, possibly the least visited church along the camino, has a generous display of crosses of Santiago.

The Road: 

The camino between here and Ledigos, a distance of 6.2km, has several detours. A large stone marker at the edge of town indicates the possible routes ahead. These variations will take you further into the hillside and away from the road. Most merge shortly before entering Ledigos, but the one that keeps fartest to the left (known as the Palomares route because of the number of dovecotes along the way) bypasses both Ledigo and Teradilllos and is the shortest route to Moratinos.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de Peregrinos Camino Real
Trazera Mayor, 8

Private
80 5 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos "Camino Real" on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Peregrinos "Camino Real" on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Municipal de Calzadilla de la Cueza
Mayor, 1

Municipal
34 5 Photo in Albergue Municipal de Calzadilla de la Cueza on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Municipal de Calzadilla de la Cueza on the Camino de Santiago
3 Hostal Camino Real
Trasera Mayor, 8

Hostal

Ledigos

Distance to Santiago: 
376.90
2.80km
Altitude: 
873
The Road: 

Ledigos wins the award for most confusing camino signs. Fear not, both directions will take you to Terradillos de los Templarios. However, if you are planning to stay at the Los Templarios albergue (located along the road, before the pueblo) you are advised to take the path which follows the N-120, which is the one indicated by the right arrow. The left arrow takes a more direct path to Terradillos across the fields.

Photo in Lédigos on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 El Palomar
Ronda de Abajo

Private
52 6 Photo in El Palomar on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue La Morena
Carretera, 3

Private
42 8 Photo in Albergue La Morena on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue La Morena on the Camino de Santiago

Terradillos de los Templarios

Distance to Santiago: 
374.10
3.20km
Altitude: 
870
The Road: 

Between here and Sahagún the camino follows along a dirt track which frequently parallels the N-120. The N-120 has numerous blind spots for motorists and you are advised to keep off it whether by bike or by foot.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue Los Templarios
La Carretera

Private
51 8 Photo in Albergue Los Templarios on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Los Templarios on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Jacques de Molay
La Iglesia, 18

Private
49 8/10 Photo in Albergue de Terradillo de los Templarios - Jacques de Molay on the Camino de Santiago

San Nicolás del Real Camino

Distance to Santiago: 
368.30
7.60km
Altitude: 
844
The Road: 

More than halfway between San Nicolás and Sahagún the camino departs from the dirt track and crosses the highway. It heads towards the Ermita de la Virgen del Puente. Just beyond the Ermita stands a monument which marks the geographical center of the camino, the halfway point. Naturally the math doesn’t quite add up, but you can be certain that you have crossed that half way point sometime between Moratinos and Sahagún.

Name Beds Price
1 Alberguería Laganares
Plaza de la Iglesia

Private
22 9 Photo in Alberguería Laganares on the Camino de Santiago