Camino Francés in Navarra | Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago

Saint Jean Pied de Port

Distance to Santiago: 
767.00
5.20km
8.30kms.
Altitude: 
163

Saint Jean Pied de Port is the nexus of several routes that spread out across mainland Europe, and it was from here (primarily but not exclusively) that pilgrims most frequently made the crossing into the Iberian peninsula.

The tradition remains and the small town is often saturated with pilgrims, and pilgrim related tourism, during most of the year. With so many newly minted pilgrims roaming the streets, it has an air of excitement mixed with apprehension and a touch of dread.

You are advised to have a reservation before arriving, and the same holds true for the very few accommodation options that exist between here and Roncesvalles. If reservations are not part of your plans, march on with the philosophy that the camino provides, as it so often does in the most unexpected of ways.

Landmarks to explore include the Citadelle at the top of town, the Porte de San Jacques, and the Notre Dame du Bout du Pont. Look to the cobbled streets for the well-trodden plaques that point the way to Santiago de Compostela.

Before you set off for the Pyrenees and the border crossing into Spain be certain to pick up a pilgrim’s credencial at the pilgrims office (Rue de la Citadelle). This accordion-fold booklet is your passport to the camino and will become your most cherished souvenir of the trip. It is a required document in most pilgrim-specific accommodation, earns you pilgrim prices in many museums, and will serve as proof of your journey when presented to the Pilgrims Office in Santiago if you are planning on getting your Compostela Certificate.

Fiesta: 

Market day in Saint Jean Pied de Port is Monday, which is also one of its least busy days for pilgrims.

Notice: 

It is important to be aware of the dangers of weather between here and Roncesvalles. These mountains have claimed more than a few lives, including several in recent history. If you have any questions regarding the journey ahead, the volunteers at the pilgrim office are there to help and advise.

The Road: 

The distance between here and Roncesvalles is the most physically difficult stretch of road you are likely to encounter on the whole of your camino. From the “Foot of the Pass,” it is a steady climb for the majority of the day, with a rather steep descent into Roncesvalles for the last hours.

‌The Valcarlos Route - 23.5

The Valcarlos Route follows close to the road and is the advised route during poor weather.

It passes through two towns (with services) located directly on the road between here and Roncesvalles, and two villages that are not on the road and which have no services.

‌The Napoleon Route - 24.3

The Napoleon Route is the longer of the two and covers small mountain roads and trails. It was popularized as a way to bypass the banditry that was all too common in the valley below. You will soon see that up in the mountains, there are few places to hide.

During times of poor weather, this route will be closed. When the skies are clear you can see for miles, otherwise you are not likely to see past the horses and sheep that pasture here.

History: 

Saint Jean Pied de Port, or Donibane Garazi as it is known in Basque (remember that the French border aside, this town was once a part of Lower Navarre and the Basque language is as common here as it is over the pass), was founded in the late 12th century by the Kings of Navarre and served as the capital.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue Accueil Pelerin
Citadelle, 25

Private
32 13*
2 Albergue Beilari
Citadelle, 40

Private
18 30** Photo in Albergue Beilari (L Esprit du Chemin) on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Le Chemin vers L Etoile
Espagne, 21

Private
20 17* Saint Jean Pied de Port  - Albergue Le Chemin vers L Etoile Saint Jean Pied de Port  - Albergue Le Chemin vers L Etoile
4 Gite Ultreia
Rue de la Citadelle, 8

Private
15 16/17 Photo in Gite Ultreia (SJPDP) on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Gite Ultreia (SJPDP) on the Camino de Santiago
5 Albergue Azkorria
Citadelle, 50

Private
8 29 Photo in Albergue Azkorria on the Camino de Santiago
6 Refuge Esponda
Trinquet, 9

Private
14 14
7 Camping Municipal Plaza Berri
Fronton

Camping
50 10 / tent
8 Hotel des Remparts
Floquet, 16

Hotel
Photo in Hotel des Remparts on the Camino de Santiago
9 Maison d’Hôtel Itzalpea
Trinquet, 5

Hotel
Photo in Maison d’Hôtel Itzalpea on the Camino de Santiago
10 Hotel Ramuntcho
France, 1

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Ramuntcho on the Camino de Santiago
11 Hotel des Pyrénées
Charles de Gaulle, 19

Hotel
Photo in Hotel des Pyrénées on the Camino de Santiago
12 La Villa Esponda
Trinquet, 9

Pension
Photo in La Villa Esponda on the Camino de Santiago
13 Albergue de peregrinos de Saint Jean Pied de Port
Citadelle, 55

Municipal
32 8
14 Albergue Zuharpeta
Zuharpeta, 5

Private
22 13

Arnéguy

Distance to Santiago: 
757.90
3.10km
The Road: 

In Arnéguy you will cross the main road (D933) and the bridge. The way will lead you to a country road that is lower in the valley and which will bring you to Valcarlos from the lower part of town.

Photo in Arnéguy on the Camino de Santiago
Name booking.com
1 Hotel Le Clementenia
Le bourg D933

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Le Clementenia on the Camino de Santiago

Valcarlos

Distance to Santiago: 
754.80
3.20km

To get to most services in town you will have to follow the road a short distance back in the direction of Arnéguy.

The church here is of a modern design and is often locked up. This is frequently the case, particularly in the rural corners of Spain. If you are comfortable asking around, usually at the nearest bar, somebody will know somebody with a key. They will almost always open up for pilgrims.

Fiesta: 

Domingo de Resurrección - Easter Sunday. In Valcarlos the Resurrection is celebrated with dancing and singing and draws a considerable crowd.

The Road: 

You will leave town along the main road, eventually abandoning it for a smaller road on your left. Gañecoleta is less than 1km from the departure from the main road.

Photo in Valcarlos on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue municipal de Valcarlos
Elizaldea, 52

Municipal
24 10*
2 Casa Rural Erlanio
Elizaldea, 58

Casa Rural
3 Hostal Maitena
Elizaldea

Hostal
4 Casa Rural Etxezuria
Elizaldea, 60

Casa Rural

Gañecoleta

Distance to Santiago: 
747.50
7.30km
Altitude: 
407

From here the way to the pass is quite steep, particularly the last few kilometers.

Puerto de Ibañeta

1.60km
1058

Commonly referred to as Roncesvalles Pass and home to the modern Ermita de San Salvador de Ibañeta. The pass has existed as an important crossing point since Roman times and was one of the principal crossings into the Iberian peninsula. From here it is all downhill into Roncesvalles, 1.6km.

Honto [Huntto]

Distance to Santiago: 
761.80
2.30km
Altitude: 
498

First bar stop and first accommodation option. Reservation is recommended.

The Road: 

Not far beyond Honto the camino leaves the asphalt road for the first time, and winds steeply uphill over the course of several switchbacks.

The Kayola albergue, operated by the Orisson albergue, is located where these switchbacks return you to the road.

From here the camino is almost entirely on the asphalt road until you reach the Collado de Bentartea.

Photo in Honto [Huntto] on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue Ferme Ithurburia

Private
22 14 Photo in Albergue Ferme Ithurburia on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Ferme Ithurburia on the Camino de Santiago

Orisson

Distance to Santiago: 
759.50
3.70km
Altitude: 
800

Orisson is a common stopping point for pilgrims wishing to split the walk over the pass into more manageable sections.

Notice: 

If you arrive here late in the day don’t just pass on by. Drop in and inquire about the weather, and if you choose to continue on make it clear to somebody that you are doing so. If it is anywhere near nightfall (within 5 hours), stay here.

Orisson - Camino de Santiago - 1
Name Beds Price
1 Refuge Orisson
Uhart-Cize

Private
18 35** Photo in Refuge Orisson on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Refuge Orisson on the Camino de Santiago
2 Kayola
Uhart-Cize

Private
15 15 Photo in Kayola on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Kayola on the Camino de Santiago

Spain and Navarra

1311

Navarra is the first of the Spanish Autonomous Communities along the Camino Francés. It extends from here, in the heights of the Pyrenees to the river plains of the Ebro on the outskirts of Logroño.

The language in these parts is officially Spanish and Basque. It should be noted that although Navarra is divided between Basques and Spaniards, the majority of the population here refers to this part of the world as Basqueland (pais vasco) rather than Spain.

Flag of Navarra

Roncesvalles [Orreaga]

Distance to Santiago: 
742.70
2.60km
Altitude: 
954

The popular dinner spot is Casa Sabina, and you’ll want to put your name on the list (at their bar) in advance. The dining room sees pilgrims from the world over sat down at random to fill the tables. Half are about to start their walk, beginning here, the other half just came off the mountain. The length of their stride tells them apart.

It doesn’t take much to see the whole town, but nearly every building is a treasure of some kind.

Nearest the albergue is the Iglesia de Santa Maria, where a pilgrim Mass and benediction is held daily at 8pm (6pm on weekends). The Real Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles is also not to be missed, but the relics and other notable items are part of the Museum (small fee).

The small Capilla de Santiago o de los Peregrinos and the Silo de Carlomagno (also known as the Capilla de Sancti Spiritus) sit side by side along the road.

Fiesta: 

Dia de la Virgen de Roncesvalles is celebrated every year on September 8th.

The Road: 

The camino leaves along a footpath to the west of the main road (your right hand side), pressing deeper into the forest before returning to the road as it approaches Burguete.

History: 

Roncesvalles is the setting for the epic battle of Charlemagne and Roland, where they were ambushed (by whom is unclear, perhaps the Muslims, perhaps the Basques). Roland perished and a legend was born. Centuries later the church would capitalize on the name, and the abbey here controlled a significant territory up and down the valley as far as Pamplona.

Roncesvalles [Orreaga] - Camino de Santiago - 1Roncesvalles [Orreaga] - Camino de Santiago - 1Roncesvalles [Orreaga] - Camino de Santiago - 1
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Refugio de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles - Itzandegia
Real Colegiata de Roncesvalles

Parochial
183 12 Photo in Refugio de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles - Itzandegia on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Refugio de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles - Itzandegia on the Camino de Santiago
2 Hotel Roncesvalles
Roncesvalles, 14

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Roncesvalles on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Hotel Roncesvalles on the Camino de Santiago
3 Casa Sabina
Roncesvalles, 18

Pension
4 Hostal Posada de Roncesvalles
Roncesvalles

Hostal
5 Apartamentos Casa de los Beneficiados
Roncesvalles

Pension
Photo in Apartamentos Casa de los Beneficiados on the Camino de Santiago

Burguete [Auritz]

Distance to Santiago: 
740.10
3.70km
Altitude: 
897

Immortalized by and little changed since Ernest Hemmingway lodged here 1924. He was on a fishing trip, no doubt catching some of the trout that swim these rivers and which luckily for us end up on more than a few dinner tables.

The architecture here is typically Basque; massive multi-generation family homes with a name or a crest above the door.

Several good cafés and proof that the first cup of coffee you come to in town may not be the best. There is also a bakery/café beyond the turn mentioned below.

The Road: 

Keep your wits about you when walking through town because the camino takes a sharp right turn halfway through. There are no less than twelve yellow arrows marking the turn, but it can still be overlooked by those admiring the charm of Burguete.

Photo in Burguete [Auritz] on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Burguete [Auritz] on the Camino de Santiago
Name booking.com
1 Hostal Burguete
San Nicolás, 71

Hostal
2 Hotel Rural Loizu
San Nicolás, 13

Hotel Rural
Photo in Hotel Rural Loizu on the Camino de Santiago
3 Casa Rural Txiki Polit
Roncesvalles, 42

Casa Rural
4 Casa Rural Don Jáuregui de Burguete
San Nicolás, 32

Casa Rural
Things to see
San Nicolas de Bari

Espinal [Aurizberri]

Distance to Santiago: 
736.40
5.20km
Altitude: 
870

An alternative to spending the night in Roncesvalles for pilgrims arriving there too late in the evening to walk a full day, as the stretch between the two is 5km along mostly flat ground.
Between here and Pamplona, you will notice many villages perched above the valley floor. This was to maximize both farmland (shared and more fertile near the river) and security.

History: 

The founding of Espinal, now an uninspiring town comprised mostly of modern chalets, was driven by the desire to keep pilgrims safe. This river valley has a long history of battle and banditry, and it was in the interest of the Navarran Kings (in this case Teobaldo II) to keep them safe.

Several more villages along the way share a similar founding, and Teobaldo was not alone in improving the infrastructure of the camino. Indeed, several other Kings, Queens, Saints, and the current ruling party all share a common interest in the camino.

Photo in Espinal [Aurizberri] on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Espinal [Aurizberri] on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Camping Urrobi
Pamplona-Valcarlos, Km. 42

Camping
5.15 Photo in Camping Urrobi on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Camping Urrobi on the Camino de Santiago
2 Irugoienea
Oihanilun, 2

Private
21 10 Photo in Irugoienea on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Irugoienea on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Haizea
Saroiberri

Private
30 12 Photo in Albergue Haizea on the Camino de Santiago
4 Casa Rural Errebesena
San Bartolomé, 25

Casa Rural
5 Casa Rural Gertxada
Espinal

Casa Rural
6 Casa Rural Roncesvalles
San Bartolome, 86

Casa Rural
Things to see
San Bartolome

Linzoain

Distance to Santiago: 
729.30
4.60km
Altitude: 
737
Notice: 

The bar has highly irregular hours as it is not generally open to the public.

The Road: 

When you get to this town, be sure to follow the arrows that direct you to the right and uphill. If you get to the main road (the N-135) you have gone wrong. The climb is fairly steep up to the Alto de Erro.

Photo in Linzoain on the Camino de Santiago

Alto de Erro

3.70km
800

There is a food truck which provides year-round service to pilgrims, and which has a nice multicolored stamp.

The basket of underwear there has an explanation: The owner originally put out a basket to collect unwanted items from pilgrims which could be donated to charity. One day a particular peregrina came along with uncomfortable undergarments and she thought it a good idea to leave them behind. She subsequently fell in love and got married on the camino, prompting the owner to put up the additional notice that “Magic Happens.”

Photo in Alto de Erro on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Alto de Erro on the Camino de Santiago

Zubiri [Esteribar]

Distance to Santiago: 
721.00
2.80km
Altitude: 
529

Zubiri, like Larrosoaña ahead, is adjacent to the camino and not strictly on it. You do not need to cross the bridge if you don’t plan on stopping here. If you do go into town, retrace your steps and turn right once back over the bridge.

Two restaurants offer pilgrim menus. They are on opposite ends of town, the first near the main square and the other down the road. The shop here offers everything you need to put together a meal.

On extremely busy days, the polideportivo (sports complex) that is adjacent to the municipal albergue is used to accommodate pilgrims.

History: 

The name Zubiri comes from the Basque word for bridge, a clue which tells us that the town was founded relatively late. The bridge itself was thought to cure rabies and hydrophobia in animals, and rituals of crossing the bridge with them or circling its base a number of times were all that it took to work miracles. These miracles were later Christianized and attributed to Santa Quiteria.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Peregrinos de Zubiri

Municipal
52 8 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos de Zubiri on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Peregrinos de Zubiri on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Zaldiko
Puente de la Rabia, 1

Private
24 10/12 Zubiri [Esteribar] - Albergue Zaldiko Zubiri [Esteribar] - Albergue Zaldiko
3 Albergue El Palo de Avellano
Roncesvalles, 16

Private
60 16* Photo in Albergue El Palo de Avellano on the Camino de Santiago
4 Albergue Río Arga Ibaia
Puente de la Rabia, 7

Private
15 Photo in Albergue Río Arga Ibaia on the Camino de Santiago
5 Albergue Suseia
Murelu, 12

Private
20 15* Photo in Albergue Suseia on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Suseia on the Camino de Santiago
6 Pensión Amets
Gerestegi, 25

Pension
Photo in Pensión Amets on the Camino de Santiago
7 Pensión Usoa
Puente de la Rabia, 4

Pension
8 Pensión Benta Berri
Roncesvalles, 10

Pension
9 Hostal Gau Txori
Ctra. N-135

Hostal
10 Hostería de Zubiri
Roncesvalles, 6

Hotel Rural
11 Albergue Segunda Etapa
Roncesvalles, 22

Private
12
12 Pensión Zubiaren Etxea
Camino de Santiago, 2

Pension
Things to see
Puente de la Rabia Photo of Puente de la Rabia on the Camino de Santiago

Zubiri to Larrosoaña

502

You can take the road or the trail out of Zubiri. The trail, which passes a belching magnesium plant, can get quite soggy during wet weather.

Ilarratz

Distance to Santiago: 
718.20
2.60km
Altitude: 
549

Four hundred meters from Ilarratz on the right-hand side of the road lies La Abadia de Ilarratz (the abbey). The medieval building, rumored to have been a fort, was converted to a church in the early 16th century. Pilgrims have recently bought it and are currently busy with a project to save the buildings. Pilgrims are welcome to pop in and say hello. They are also welcome to rest in the shade of the garden.

Photo in Ilarratz on the Camino de Santiago

Ezkirotz

Distance to Santiago: 
717.50
Altitude: 
530

Larrasoaña

Distance to Santiago: 
715.60
0.60km
Altitude: 
500

The grocery has minimal hours and stock but does open early for breakfast.

Like Zubiri, Larrasoaña has a bridge which is well known, though for less beneficial reasons. Instead of healing, it was a frequent point of banditry; the name of the bridge is the Puente de los Bandidos . This is an important concept to keep in mind if you find yourself trying to imagine the life of a medieval pilgrim. All across Spain the stories of banditry appear, and when they do there is most often a river involved.
Modern pilgrims can hardly complain about the state of river crossings, but the medieval pilgrim would frequently find himself (depending on the century) with a more difficult situation. The rivers themselves grow in size as you continue westward, and some of them look quite daunting indeed. They were a natural choice for a more nefarious crowd looking to exploit pilgrims.

A bridge, whatever it’s design or age, is a wonderful thing indeed.

History: 

Larrasoaña has a long history of hospitality to pilgrims; though you would not guess such from its current state. An Augustinian monastery and two hospices for pilgrims served the pilgrimage for the better part of 8 centuries. Sadly, little remains. Two chapels, dedicated to St. Blaise and St. James, are all that exist of the once large and powerful brotherhoods dedicated to the care of pilgrims that once existed here and which made Larrasoaña an important stop along the way.

Photo in Larrasoaña on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Larrasoaña on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Larrasoaña
San Nicolas

Municipal
58 6
2 Hostel Bide Ederra
San Nicolas, 27

Private
6 16
3 Albergue San Nicolás
Sorandi, 5-7

Private
40 11 Photo in Albergue San Nicolás on the Camino de Santiago
4 Pensión El Camino - Casa Sangalo
Portalcelay, 12

Pension
Photo in Pensión El Camino - Casa Sangalo on the Camino de Santiago
5 Pensión Tau
Errotabidea, 18

Pension
Photo in Pensión Tau on the Camino de Santiago
6 Casa Elita
Amairu, 7

Casa Rural
Photo in Casa Elita on the Camino de Santiago
Things to see
Ermita de San Nicolás

Zuriain

Distance to Santiago: 
711.90
2.20km
Altitude: 
479
The Road: 

The camino joins the main road here but not for more than 700m before turning left onto the first road. Along the road you are likely to find herds of spandexed cyclists. This stretch of asphalt was where Spain’s most famous cyclist Miguel Indurain trained to win his five Tour de France titles.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue La Parada de Zuriain
Landa, 8

Private
13 12* Photo in Albergue La Parada de Zuriain on the Camino de Santiago

Irotz

Distance to Santiago: 
709.70
1.00km
Altitude: 
475
The Road: 

Between here and Zabaldika the camino splits, and while one path is not technically the camino it can be misleading. The camino proper heads towards Zabaldika, while the “River Walk” turns left after the bridge and follows the river into Pamplona; while this sounds nice it is, in fact, a much longer path due to the very not-straight nature of the river.

Zabaldika

Distance to Santiago: 
708.70
1.60km
Altitude: 
510

The somewhat confused signs through Zabaldika are the result of local politics interfering with tradition. In this case, the ayuntamiento has managed to one up the culturally significant Iglesia de San Esteban and the original Camino Francés. To follow the original way, turn right in town and look out for the signs which take you across the main road and up a trail to the church in the upper half of Zabaldika. There is no need to retrace your steps, as the other camino does the very same some 100m down the road.

Zabaldika - Camino de Santiago - 1
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue Parroquial de Zabaldika
Church of St. Esteban

Parochial
18 Donativo Photo in Albergue Parroquial de Zabaldika on the Camino de Santiago

SPLIT: Alternate Route via Huarte or follow the camino

495

At the picnic area adjacent to the road you can choose your own adventure. The majority of walkers continue onward and upward. Optionally you can follow the river, keeping it on your right, on an alternate route into Huarte (albergue municipal, all services) and on to Pamplona. This route is marginally longer than the other, but does bypass the very obvious ascent from here.

Arleta

Distance to Santiago: 
707.10
2.10km
Altitude: 
457

The pair of buildings here are the Palace of the Lords and the Iglesia de Santa Marina. Neither are open to the public but there is place enough for a rest or a picnic before tackling the suburbs of Pamplona.

The Road: 

The camino passes through a tunnel beneath the highway and then climbs up and around the Monte Miravalles before nearing Trinidad de Arre.

Trinidad de Arre

Distance to Santiago: 
705.00
0.60km
Altitude: 
434

Crossing over the Río Ulzama you arrive to the district of Arre. Trinidad de Arre marks the point where you begin a mostly urban walk into Pamplona.

The camino here is joined by another from Bayonne to the northeast. It is an uncommon route by most measures, but if you find yourself among a few new faces, you may just ask them if they came along the Camino Baztán.

The albergue which is at the far end of the bridge is historically significant. Not only is it one of the oldest continually running albergues on the camino but it is also one of the most complete medieval monasteries in Navarra.

The Road: 

The next 7km are through the suburbs into and out of Pamplona.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de Trinidad de Arre
Mayor de Villava

Parochial
34 8

Burlada

Distance to Santiago: 
703.50
3.10km
Altitude: 
437

The border between Burlada and Pamplona is the Río Arga, which is spanned by the Puente de la Magdalena. Since Trinidad de Arre the terrain has been flat. From the bridge here you get your first glimpse of Pamplona’s defenses, both natural and man-made.

Pamplona [Iruña]

Distance to Santiago: 
700.40
4.80km
Altitude: 
460

Modern Pamplona is the most populous city along the Camino Francés. It offers just about every service you might need along the way. Its main square, the Plaza del Castillo was renovated in 2003 and is the easiest point from which to get your bearings.

Hemingway helped put the city back on the map and into the minds of many. He visited frequently and wrote kindly of the place. Some of his old haunts are still around (Bar Txoko, Hotel La Perla, and Café Iruña).

As is usual in every Spanish town with a large tourist population, the best food is found off the beaten path. Luckily, that is a quick stroll down Calle San Nicolás on the west side of the Plaza.

Pamplona is worthy of a rest day to see the sights, or perhaps a half day. Near the entrance to town is the Neoclassical Cathedral de Santa María el Real, your credential gets you a discount on the Cathedral and the attached Museo Diocesano. Another church of note is the fortified Iglesia of San Saturnino.

Fiesta: 

Pamplona enjoys its fiestas. The most notorious of them is San Fermín (think of men running from bulls) from July 6th - 14th. The municipal albergue is closed during that time, and accommodation elsewhere is hard to find and an order of magnitude more expensive. If you are keen on the experience plan well in advance, otherwise just pass through town with a watchful eye on your belongings.

Notice: 

One more thing to note is that your pack can be made lighter if you are interested in forwarding a few of your belongings to Santiago. The post office here is well versed in the matter, and the post office in Santiago even more so. Postage is inexpensive, and you have 15 days to collect your stuff on the other end or add more days at 1€/day; use the slowest shipping method to save. If you choose this option, remember that the post office (Correos) are not open on Sundays in any location.

The Road: 

The camino leaves town via the star-shaped Citadel that rose up during the 17th century (much like the citadel in Saint Jean Pied de Port, as both were based off the designs of the same French military engineer). If you are lost, find your way to the park which surrounds the citadel. The camino is well marked from there.

History: 

Pamplona has been a city of importance since the year 75 BC. It was then that the Roman general Pompaelo set up camp at what has always been a geographically strategic point. That the camino passes through Pamplona is no coincidence, the geography dictates that it ought to.

As such, some would say that Pamplona’s history was written by the hills which have forever funneled Pyrenean traffic through this point. Indeed, it has a long and complicated history of conquest and reconquest, and for the 5 centuries that followed its capture by the Muslims in 718 little changed. They were eventually expelled from the city (but not the region) by the Basques and for the subsequent 200 years the power struggles that ensued were primarily motivated by the desire to keep them from regaining control.

By the 12th century things had calmed down enough for the city to begin growing in earnest, and again it’s geographic position made for a unique situation. It was by all measures a melting pot of cultures, with Basques from both sides of the French border, Castillians, Jews, and the remaining Muslim population each carving out a barrio for themselves. Cooperation was scarce, and the city survived a cycle of growth and destruction as each group struggled to defend themselves while attacking the others.

The situation was so intense that Pamplona has the distinction of being one of the few cities with defensive walls within the city, rather than around it.

Photo in Pamplona [Iruña] on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Pamplona [Iruña] on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Pamplona [Iruña] on the Camino de Santiago
Photo in Pamplona [Iruña] on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Pamplona [Iruña] on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue Casa Paderborn
Playa de Caparroso, 6

Association
26 6
2 Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos - Iglesia de Jesús y Maria
Compañia, 4

Municipal
112 8 Photo in Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos - Iglesia de Jesús y Maria on the Camino de Santiago
3 Aloha Hostel
Sangüesa, 2

Private
26 15* Photo in Aloha Hostel on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Aloha Hostel on the Camino de Santiago
4 Albergue Casa Ibarrola
Carmen, 31

Private
20 15* Photo in Albergue Casa Ibarrola on the Camino de Santiago
5 Hostel Hemingway
Amaya, 26

Private
30 13/20* Photo in Hostel Hemingway on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Hostel Hemingway on the Camino de Santiago
6 Albergue Xarma
Baja Navarra, 23

Private
24 15/16* Photo in Albergue Xarma on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Xarma on the Camino de Santiago
7 Hotel Castillo de Javier
San Nicolás, 50

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Castillo de Javier on the Camino de Santiago
8 Hotel Eslava
Virgen de la O, 7

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Eslava on the Camino de Santiago
9 Pensión Sarasate
Sarasate, 30

Pension
10 Hostal Arriazu
Las Comedias, 14

Hostal
Photo in Hostal Arriazu on the Camino de Santiago
11 Pamplona Catedral Hotel
Dos de Mayo, 4

Hotel
Photo in Pamplona Catedral Hotel on the Camino de Santiago
12 Gran Hotel La Perla
Plaza del Castillo, 1

Hotel
Photo in Gran Hotel La Perla on the Camino de Santiago
13 Hostal Navarra B&B
Tudela, 9

Hostal
Photo in Hostal Navarra B&B on the Camino de Santiago
14 Pensión Pasadena
Pio XII, 32

Pension
Photo in Pensión Pasadena on the Camino de Santiago
15 Hostel Ciudadela 7
Ciudadela, 7

Closed
24 16 Photo in Hostel Ciudadela 7 on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Hostel Ciudadela 7 on the Camino de Santiago
16 Albergue de Pamplona-Iruñako Aterpea
Carmen, 18

Private
24 16 Photo in Albergue de Pamplona-Iruñako Aterpea on the Camino de Santiago
17 Albergue Plaza Catedral
Navarrería, 35

Private
45 15/18* Photo in Albergue Plaza Catedral on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Plaza Catedral on the Camino de Santiago

Cizur Menor [Zizur Txikia]

Distance to Santiago: 
695.60
6.10km
Altitude: 
464

One restaurant, Asador El Tremendo, does a pilgrim menu for about 10 euro. The grocery store in Cizur MAYOR is a short walk to your west, though a smaller shop with basic staples is available in town.

History: 

The Hospitallers of Jerusalem (the Knights of Malta) cared for pilgrims between here and the Alto de Perdón. Later, when the Knights Templar disappeared, they also took over operations west of here in Puente la Reina.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de peregrinos de la Orden de Malta
Albergue de Cizur Menor

Private
27 4 Photo in Albergue de peregrinos de la Orden de Malta on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Familia Roncal
Albergue Familia Roncal
Lurbeltzeta

Private
51 10 Photo in Albergue Familia Roncal on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Familia Roncal on the Camino de Santiago
3 AC Hotel Zizur Mayor
Etxesakan, 3

Hotel
Things to see
Iglesia de San Miguel Photo of Iglesia de San Miguel on the Camino de Santiago

Zariquiegui

Distance to Santiago: 
689.50
2.40km
Altitude: 
623

From here the climb is steady to the Alto de Perdón. If you have watched Martin Sheen’s “The Way” you may recognize the front of the Iglesia de San Andres as the setting for one of the movie’s earlier scenes.

Photo in Zariquiegui on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 El Albergue de Zariquiegui
San Andrés, 16

Private
22 11* Photo in La Posada de Ardogi on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in La Posada de Ardogi on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue San Andrés
Camino de Santiago, 4

Private
18 11 Photo in Albergue San Andrés on the Camino de Santiago

Alto del Perdón

3.50km
752

At 752m the Sierras del Perdón are the highest point for the next 170km. A food truck named La Kontxa is parked at the top and offers a large selection of food and drinks, right down to their vegetarian burgers (and regular burgers). They are open from April through October. Between going up, and going back down, it is the latter which requires more care and a sturdy foot.

Photo in Alto del Perdón on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Alto del Perdón on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Alto del Perdón on the Camino de Santiago

Detour to Church of Eunate +3km

442

‌Detour to visit the Church at eunate +3km
Octagonal 12th century Iglesia de Eunate.

The history of this ermita is still up for debate, and like most things in Spain are divided into two camps. Half believe it is of Knights Templar origin, and the rest who believe it was a funeral chapel. Separate yourself from that intellectual debate and you will find a countryside setting with a small gem of architecture for you to contemplate.

Eunate

442

‌Detour to visit the Church at eunate +3km
Octagonal 12th century Iglesia de Eunate.

The history of this ermita is still up for debate, and like most things in Spain are divided into two camps. Half believe it is of Knights Templar origin, and the rest who believe it was a funeral chapel. Separate yourself from that intellectual debate and you will find a countryside setting with a small gem of architecture for you to contemplate.

November through February - Closed
March 1 to April 9
TUE - FRI 10:30-13:30 (closed mondays)
SAT/SUN 10:30-13:30

Photo of Eunate on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto of Eunate on the Camino de Santiago

Obanos

Distance to Santiago: 
679.10
2.50km
Altitude: 
414
Fiesta: 

The Mystery of Obanos - End of July on even numbered years, see history below.

The Road: 

Outside of Obanos, on the road to Puente la Reina, the Camino Aragonés joins the Camino Francés.

History: 

Obanos is the real-life setting of a passion play that takes place here every even-numbered year at the end of July. It is a tragic tale of two saints.

The origins of the play are traced to the 14th century, when Santa Felicia, sister to the Duke of Aquitaine (San Guillén), left her home for a pilgrimage to Santiago.

The life suited her and when she arrived in Obanos she decided to devote herself to aiding pilgrims. Her brother set out on a mission of his own, that of bringing her back home with the lure of the comfortable lifestyle she had left behind. He was unable to do so, and in a fit of rage killed her.

Wracked with remorse, the young Duke decided to complete her pilgrimage in penitence. On his return journey, he holed up in the nearby hermitage of Arnotegui. He built a chapel there and continued the mission that his sister had begun.

The Iglesia de San Juan Bautista preserves the skull of Guillén.

Photo in Obanos on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue USDA de Obanos

Private
36 8 Photo in Albergue USDA de Obanos on the Camino de Santiago
2 Hostal Rural Mamerto
San Lorenze ,13

Hostal
3 Casa Rural Raichu
Larrotagaña, 2

Casa Rural
9 Photo in Casa Rural Raichu on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Casa Rural Raichu on the Camino de Santiago

Puente la Reina [Gares]

Distance to Santiago: 
676.60
5.00km
Altitude: 
350

There are a pair of churches in town that are worthy of a peek. They are the Iglesia del Crucifijo (with a rather distinct crucifix) and the Iglesia de Santiago (with its black Santiago). The best view of the old bridge is from the new bridge.

Fiesta: 

Puenta la Reina celebrates Santiago as their patron, from July 24th to July 30th. They also have a few harvest festivals in September, including one which celebrates the red peppers that are grown in the hills between here and Eunate.

The Road: 

The camino leaves Puente la Reina by passing over its namesake bridge. From there it turns left, crosses the main road, and follows a footpath. Shortly, it begins a short but steep ascent on slippery-when-wet terrain. It is not uncommon to find cyclists pushing their gear upwards.

History: 

The name of this town is rather romantically attributed to the benefactor of the bridge over the Río Arga. It is a nice sentiment, but not an altogether accurate one. In fact, historians quibble over which 11th century Queen had it built. One thing is for certain, banditry continued to present a problem to the growing town, and in the 13th century a wall was built to protect it.

It was rectilinear in shape and was not much bigger than the current town, and little remains:
1. Calle Cerco, cerco being the word for wall. Of the 26 original towers most have become part of private homes, the best visible example is the stonework inside Hotel Cerco.
2. The city gate which opens to the bridge. Of the original 4 doors, it is the only one that remains.

Photo in Puente la Reina [Gares] on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Puente la Reina [Gares] on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de los Padres Reparadores
Plaza Guillermo Zicke

Parochial
100 5 Photo in Albergue de los Padres Reparadores on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de los Padres Reparadores on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Santiago Apóstol (Puenta la Reina)
Paraje el Real

Private
100 10 Photo in Albergue Santiago Apóstol (Puenta la Reina) on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Santiago Apóstol (Puenta la Reina) on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Jakue
Irunbidea

Private
38 12 Photo in Albergue Jakue on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Jakue on the Camino de Santiago
4 Albergue Puente
Los Fueros, 57

Private
36 12* Photo in Albergue Puente on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Puente on the Camino de Santiago
5 Albergue Amalur
Cerco Viejo, 3

Private
20 10 Photo in Albergue Amalur on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Amalur on the Camino de Santiago
6 Hotel Rural El Cerco
Rodrigo Ximenez de Rada, 36

Hotel Rural
Photo in Hotel Rural El Cerco on the Camino de Santiago
7 Hotel Rural Bidean
Mayor, 20

Hotel Rural
8 Hostal Zubi XXI
Irunbidea, 28

Hostal
9 Albergue Estrella Guía
Los Fueros, 34

Private
6 12*
10 Ganbara
Mayor, 86

Pension

Mañeru

Distance to Santiago: 
671.60
2.80km
Altitude: 
457

Mañeru is a small village whose streets rival in confusion the best of labyrinths. Like the next village Cirauqui, it boasts a large number of impressive coats of arms carved into the large homes.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de peregrinos Lurgorri
Esperanza, 5

Private
12 10* Photo in Albergue de peregrinos Lurgorri on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue El Cantero
Esperanza, 2

Private
26 10
Things to see
Iglesia de San Pedro

Cirauqui

Distance to Santiago: 
668.80
5.40km
Altitude: 
485

Cirauqui sits perched atop a small hill and it seems that everywhere you go is uphill. At the entrance to town is a medieval cross and at the top of town stands the Iglesia de San Román, the plaza, and an albergue.

Don’t forget to stamp your credentials under the archway.

History: 

Excavations in the surrounding area have turned up traces of a Roman settlement; a 2000-year-old milaro is preserved in the Iglesia de San Román, and the way out of town is over a Roman bridge.

Photo in Cirauqui [Zirauki] on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Cirauqui [Zirauki] on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Cirauqui [Zirauki] on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Peregrinos Maralotx de Cirauqui
San Román, 30

Private
32 11 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos Maralotx de Cirauqui on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Peregrinos Maralotx de Cirauqui on the Camino de Santiago
2 Casa Cirauqui
Zelaia, 5

Casa Rural
Photo in Casa Cirauqui on the Camino de Santiago

Lorca

Distance to Santiago: 
663.40
4.80km
Altitude: 
463

The two bars in town are at the far end, near the main plaza/fronton court.

History: 

King García Ramírez, the grandson of El Cid, died here in November of 1150. The first guidebook to the camino tells that the waters here were poisonous to horses, in fact so too was the water in every stream between here and Estella and a few more beyond. It was propaganda at its finest, and the waters are perfectly safe.

Photo in Lorca on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de Lorca
Mayor, 40

Private
14 7 Lorca - Albergue de Lorca Lorca - Albergue de Lorca
2 Albergue La Bodega del Camino
Placeta, 8

Private
40 8 Photo in Albergue La Bodega del Camino on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue La Bodega del Camino on the Camino de Santiago
Things to see
Iglesia de San Salvador

Villatuerta

Distance to Santiago: 
658.60
3.70km
Altitude: 
441

You will pass through a brief section of modern rural expansion before crossing the Río Iranzu by way of a double arched Romanesque bridge to enter the old town.

Do pay a visit to the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción.

History: 

As far back as Puente la Reina artifacts proving previous Roman occupations have been uncovered. In fact, much of the road between here and there, apart from the stretches obliterated by the new A12, are original Roman roads.

Photo in Villatuerta on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Villatuerta on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Villatuerta on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue La Casa Mágica
Rebote, 5

Private
34 12 Photo in Albergue La Casa Mágica on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue La Casa Mágica on the Camino de Santiago
2 Hostal Arandigoyen
Nueva, 8

Hostal
Photo in Hostal Arandigoyen on the Camino de Santiago
3 Muskildia Etxea
Musquilda, 2

Casa Rural

Alternate Route to Los Arcos, skipping Estella

439

From Villatuerta there is an alternate route which passes to the south of Estella and continues to Los Arcos via the towns of Noveleta, Zaraputz, and the Monastery of Irache. From there you can either continue along the camino to Villamayor de Monjardin or choose another alternate route through Luquín and on to Los Arcos. This was the route favored by pilgrims prior to the development of Estella in the 12th. c.

Estella [Lizarra]

Distance to Santiago: 
654.90
2.00km
Altitude: 
426

Estella, in spite of not being a very big town, has a lot to offer. The camino enters along the river and keeps to the west bank. To see many of the churches, or to stay in some of the albergues, you will need to cross the Río Ega.

The town boasts an impressive number of historically significant buildings, so many that to visit them all would take the better part of a weekend. The two not to be missed are the Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra (never actually used by the King of Navarra) and the Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rua. The others include the Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro (as you enter town on your left, closed since 1881), the Iglesia de San Miguel, and the Basílica del Puy which requires a climb to the top of town. Be sure to spend enough time wandering the streets to take it all in.

If you find yourself in Estella for a day of rest and exploration, there are some excellent walking trails nearby. Ask for maps in the tourist information office next to the Palacio.

Fiesta: 

Thursday is market day in Estella, just as it was 900 years ago. Be sure to stop by the Plaza de los Fueros (opposite the Iglesia de San Juan) for a fresh selection of just about everything in season across Spain. Estella has two patrons, San Andres and La Virgen del Puy. The former is celebrated as “El Viernes de Gigantes” on the first Friday before the First Sunday in August. Giants abound, and there is a running of the bulls. The latter, for the Virgin, is celebrated on May 25th.

The Road: 

If you stayed in one of the albergues on the new side of the town, cross back over the river to rejoin the camino out of town.

History: 

Geographically speaking, Estella sits to the north of what would otherwise be an easy walk west from Villatuerta. It’s growth as a commercial center developed not because of pilgrims (as was the case in most places) but rather at the manipulations of King Sancho Ramirez at the end of the 11th century.

Photo in Estella [Lizarra] on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Estella [Lizarra] on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Estella [Lizarra] on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Hospital de Peregrinos de Estella
La Rúa, 50

Municipal
96 6 Estella [Lizarra] - Hospital de Peregrinos de Estella Estella [Lizarra] - Hospital de Peregrinos de Estella
2 Albergue de ANFAS de Estella
Cordeleros, 7

Association
34 7 Photo in Albergue de ANFAS de Estella on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Parroquial San Miguel Archangel
Mercado Viejo, 18

Parochial
36 Donativo
4 Camping Lizarra
C.P.: 31200 Estella-Navarra

Camping
5.62 Photo in Camping Lizarra on the Camino de Santiago
5 Hostal El Volante
Merkatondoa, 2

Hostal
Photo in Hostal El Volante on the Camino de Santiago
6 Hotel Chapitel
Chapitel, 1

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Chapitel on the Camino de Santiago
7 Albergue Capuchinos Rocamador
Rocamador, 6

Parochial
54 15/20 Photo in Albergue Capuchinos Rocamador on the Camino de Santiago
8 Pensión Fonda Izarra
Calderería, 20

Pension
9 Hostal Cristina
Baja Navarra, 1

Hostal
10 B&B Zaldu
Pío Baroja ,1

Casa Rural
Photo in B&B Zaldu on the Camino de Santiago
11 Hotel Yerri
Yerri, 35

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Yerri on the Camino de Santiago
12 Hotel Tximista
Zaldu, 15

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Tximista on the Camino de Santiago

Ayegui

Distance to Santiago: 
652.90
5.50km
Altitude: 
490

This town has grown to connect with Estella.

The Road: 

On the way out of Estella, look for the arrows at the second roundabout which direct you away from the road and onto a track which runs up and to the right, taking you behind the commercial shopping centers and into Ayegui.

At the end of town, BEFORE you get to a small park, blue signs with arrows point you downhill and to your left. Follow them, cross over the main road, and resume the camino towards to the Fuente de Vino and the Monasterio de Irache.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue Juvenil Oncineda
Monasterio de Irache

Municipal
150 10 Photo in Albergue Juvenil Oncineda on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue San Cipriano de Ayegui
Polideportivo, 3

Municipal
26 8 Photo in Albergue San Cipriano de Ayegui on the Camino de Santiago
3 Camping Iratxe
Prado de Irache, 14

Camping

Fuente de Vino

514

Sponsored by the nearby Bodegas Irache, there is a fountain here which pours both water and wine.

The plaque on the wall reads: “If you want to go to Santiago with strength and vitality, of this great wine have a drink and toast to happiness.” Greatness is subjective.

Another sign reminds you not to abuse their generosity.

Fuente de Vino

Monasterio de Irache

514

The paper trail for the monastery leads back to 958, and it was the site of Navarra’s first pilgrim hospital. It is a large complex set in a landscape of vineyards. Like many other Benedictine monasteries across the peninsula, it has served as both a barrack to Napoleon’s troops, and as a hospital during the Carlist wars.

Free admission, but opens a bit late (10am) for pilgrims departing from Estella. The park opposite has picnic tables and nice shade trees.

Monasterio de Irache

Alternate to Los Arcos via Luquin

500 meters beyond the Monasterio de Irache, the camino splits. The camino turns right, but the natural inclination is to continue going straight along the alternate route via Luquin.

‌Via Luquin - 17.4

Villamayor de Monjardín

Distance to Santiago: 
645.50
11.70km
Altitude: 
674

The Monjardín is the peak that overlooks the town, and remnants of the 10th century Castillo de San Esteban that once protected it remain. The key to the gate can be found at Bar Ilarria in the plaza.

The Road: 

The distance between here and Los Arcos has a tendency to pass very slowly, and there are little opportunities for shade. Stock up well with water.

Villamayor de Monjardín - Camino de Santiago - 1
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue Hogar Monjardin Oasis Trails

Association
25 8 Photo in Oasis Trails Albergue on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Oasis Trails Albergue on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Villamayor de Monjardín
Mayor, 1

Private
20 15* Photo in Albergue Villamayor de Monjardín on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Villamayor de Monjardín on the Camino de Santiago
3 Casa Rural Montedeio
Mayor, 17

Casa Rural

Los Arcos

Distance to Santiago: 
633.80
7.30km
Altitude: 
450

For an early breakfast or coffee look to the main road (southeast of the church) where you will find a few bars that cater to early-to-rise pilgrims and early-to-work truck drivers.

The Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción, located in the main square, is a radiant sight.

Fiesta: 

Market day is Saturday. The locals also celebrate their patron Santa María from August 14th to 20th.

The Road: 

Exiting the town, you pass through the Arco de Felipe V and cross over the Río Odrón. A few of the albergues in town are located on the west side of the river.

History: 

Los Arcos, a village dating back to its Roman occupation, is laid out in long streets which run parallel to the Río Odrón. Your approach along the camino brings you into the north side of town, and it was on top of the hills to the east (left on approach) that the castle once stood.

It is a frontier town (Logroño is near enough) and as a result it saw its share of both destruction (at the hands of land-hungry nobility) and prosperity (every border crossing meant paying a toll, and exchanging currency, and most likely paying a duty on your horse).

Photo in Los Arcos on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Los Arcos on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Peregrinos Isaac Santiago
San Lázaro

Association
70 6
2 Casa Alberdi
Hortal, 3

Private
30 10 Photo in Casa Alberdi on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue de la Fuente - Casa de Austria
Estanco, 5

Private
54 9 Photo in Albergue de la Fuente - Casa de Austria on the Camino de Santiago
4 Albergue Casa de la Abuela
Plaza de la Fruta, 8
36 9 Photo in Albergue Casa de la Abuela on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Casa de la Abuela on the Camino de Santiago
5 Hostal Suetxe
Carramendavia

Hostal
Photo in Hostal Suetxe on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Hostal Suetxe on the Camino de Santiago
6 Hostal Ezequiel
La Serna, 14

Hostal
23 Photo in Hostal Ezequiel on the Camino de Santiago
7 Pensión Mavi
Medio, 7

Pension
8 Hotel Mónaco
Plaza del Coso, 1

Hotel
9 Hotel Villa de Los Arcos
Ctra. NA-129 Km 146

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Villa de Los Arcos on the Camino de Santiago
10 Pensión Los Arcos
La Carrera, 8

Pension
Photo in Pensión Los Arcos on the Camino de Santiago
11 Pensión Ostadar
San Lázaro, 9

Pension
Photo in Pensión Ostadar on the Camino de Santiago

Sansol

Distance to Santiago: 
626.50
0.60km
Altitude: 
495

The yellow arrows have a tendency to keep to the road as they take you through this small village. To see anything of importance, including the church and many of Sansol’s several old baroque homes, turn right at the large ceramic tile sign indicating “Sansol” on the side of one of the first buildings.

History: 

Named after San Zoilo, a young man martyred in Cordoba under the rule of Diocletian in 304AD.

Incidentally, his relics are preserved in the Benedictine Monasterio de San Zoilo in Carrión de los Condes. The local church is likewise dedicated to him.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue Arcadi y Nines
Taconera, 10

Closed
14 5 Sansol - Albergue Arcadi y Nines
2 Deshojando el Camino
Barrio Nuevo, 4

Private
26 10 Photo in Albergue Sansol on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Sansol on the Camino de Santiago
3 Casa Rural Martintxo
la Plaza, 6

Casa Rural
4 Casa Rural El Olivo
Taconera, 9

Casa Rural
Things to see
Iglesia de San Zoilo

Torres del Río

Distance to Santiago: 
625.90
10.50km
Altitude: 
450

Descending from the heights of Sansol into Torres del Río, one wonders why anyone would build a village in such an awkward to defend location. The only logical reason is the Río Linares which gives the town its name and easy access to water.

The town is curious for the fact that nearly all of the buildings (at least their exteriors) have been restored, giving the impression that there are more (and more to do) people living here than there actually are.

Pay a visit to the octagonal Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro, which like the one in Eunate cannot escape references to a Templar connection.

History: 

The stretch between here and Viana has the nickname The Knee Wrecker because of its frequent ups and downs. The only place for shade and pause is at the Capilla de la Virgen del Poyo where a seasonal food kiosk sets up shop.

Torres del Río - Camino de Santiago - 1
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue Casa Mari
Casas Nuevas

Closed
26 7 Photo in Albergue Casa Mari on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Casa Mariela
Plaza Padre Valeriano Ordóñez, 6

Private
50 10 Photo in Albergue Casa Mariela on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue La Pata de Oca
Mayor, 5

Private
42 10 Photo in Albergue La Pata de Oca on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue La Pata de Oca on the Camino de Santiago
4 Hostal San Andrés
Jesús Ordoñez, 6

Hostal
Photo in Hostal San Andrés on the Camino de Santiago

Viana

Distance to Santiago: 
615.40
9.70km
Altitude: 
475

Viana is a thriving city that serves as a good stopping point. A pair of albergues, a few churches, the occasional closing of the city streets to run with the bulls, and a handful of good restaurants offer a break from walking.

There is a nice green park, small but a great place to rest, on the west end of the town near the albergue and church ruins. It also offers great views of the plains to the west and the mountains to the north.

The restaurant Armendariz has a sidreria in the basement, where you can serve your own cider. To do so is a two person job whereby you position your glass near a bucket in the center of the room, and the person seated nearest the spigot in the wall lets flow an arc of cider on a trajectory towards said bucket.

The Road: 

Not long after leaving Viana you will have left Navarra behind and entered into La Rioja. The way into Logroño, its capital, is without much heavy industry.

History: 

Viana, being a frontier town along the border with La Rioja, has been built with obvious fortifications. The most strategic of these is it’s perch high above the surrounding hillside.

Although the city walls served their purpose well, holding off several prolonged sieges, the town changed possession several times since it’s founding in 1219. It did so largely with the shifting possession of the surrounding land.

Photo in Viana on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Viana on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Alberguería Andrés Muñoz
San Pedro

Municipal
54 6 Photo in Alberguería Andrés Muñoz on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Parroquial Santa María de Viana
Plaza de los Fueros

Parochial
15 Donativo Photo in Albergue Parroquial Santa María de Viana on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Parroquial Santa María de Viana on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Izar
El Cristo, 6

Private
44 8/15 Photo in Albergue Izar on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Izar on the Camino de Santiago
4 Hotel Palacio de Pujadas
Navarro Villoslada, 30

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Palacio de Pujadas on the Camino de Santiago
5 Hostal Casa Armendáriz
Navarro Villoslada, 19

Hostal
6 Pensión San Pedro
Medio de San Pedro, 13

Pension

Ermita de La Virgen de las Cuevas

394

The 17th century ermita, and the river that it sits along, are often considered to be the border to La Rioja. The actual modern day border is closer to Logroño but the paper factory that marks it is much less quaint than this ermita.

Logroño

Distance to Santiago: 
605.70
12.50km
Altitude: 
396

Once you have crossed the Río Ebro, you have entered Logroño proper.

Worth visiting are the Concatedral de Santa María de La Redonda (it shares the title of Cathedral with Santo Domingo, and it has a semi-hidden painting of the crucifixion by Michelangelo), the Iglesia de San Bartolomé, and the Iglesia de Santiago del Real. Of these, only the last one is located along the camino route, though all are easy to find and centrally located.

Fiesta: 

Logroño seems always to be in a state of celebration. The two big festivals are for San Bernabé on the 11th of June, and San Mateo on the 21st of September. The latter of these two, held during the fall harvest, is much to do about wine.

The Road: 

Leaving Logroño is not unlike departing most large cities in that it winds its way across town in a way that mixes landmarks with practicalities. There are plenty of arrows to mark the way, but most are painted low on curbs and can be difficult to see if you are a pre-dawn walker. If in doubt, make your way to the Cathedral and with it to your back head straight ahead along the Calle de Marqués de San Nicolás. You will pass straight through two roundabouts turn left on the third.

History: 

Like a few towns before, and several ahead, Logroño owes it’s success to the construction of the stone bridge over the Río Ebro which for a long time was the only suitable crossing point of this wide river. As such it was able to command a toll, to which pilgrims were subjected. Unfortunately very few of its medieval monuments have survived, nearly all of them destroyed. Logroño in fact, given its position both along the Ebro and on the frontier, is one of the most battled for cities in the north of Spain. In 1092 it was destroyed by El Cid.

Photo in Logroño on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Logroño on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Logroño on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Peregrinos de Logroño
Rúavieja, 32

Association
68 7
2 Albergue de Peregrinos Albas
Martínez Flamarique, 4

Private
22 12 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos Albas on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Peregrinos Albas on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Parroquial de Santiago
Barriocepo, 8

Parochial
30 Donativo
4 Albergue Check in Rioja
Los Baños, 2

Private
30 12 Photo in Albergue Check in Rioja on the Camino de Santiago
5 Hostel Entresueños
Portales, 12

Private
96 10 Photo in Hostel Entresueños on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Hostel Entresueños on the Camino de Santiago
6 Albergue Logroño
Capitán Gallarza, 10

Private
48 10
7 Albergue Santiago Apóstol
Ruavieja, 42

Private
76 10 Photo in Albergue Santiago Apóstol on the Camino de Santiago
8 Pensión El Camino
Industria, 2

Pension
Photo in Pensión El Camino on the Camino de Santiago
9 Hostal La Numantina
Sagasta, 4

Hostal
Photo in Hostal La Numantina on the Camino de Santiago
10 Pensión Laurel
Gonzalo de Berceo, 4

Pension
Photo in Pensión Laurel on the Camino de Santiago
11 Hotel Murrieta
Marqués de Murrieta, 1

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Murrieta on the Camino de Santiago
12 Hotel Sercotel Portales
Portales, 85

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Sercotel Portales on the Camino de Santiago
13 Pensión Logroño
Canalejas, 7

Pension
Photo in Pensión Logroño on the Camino de Santiago
14 Pensión Parque del Ebro
Pl. de la Constitución, 24

Pension
Photo in Pensión Parque del Ebro on the Camino de Santiago
15 Hotel Calle Mayor
Marqués de San Nicolás, 71

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Calle Mayor on the Camino de Santiago
16 Pensión Saint Mateo
Marqués de Murrieta, 35

Pension
Photo in Pensión Saint Mateo on the Camino de Santiago
17 Hotel F&G Logroño
Viana, 2-6

Hotel
Photo in Hotel F&G Logroño on the Camino de Santiago