Camino Francés in Burgos | Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago

Here you leave La Rioja behind and enter into Castilla y León, the largest of Spain’s autonomous communities. It is comprised of nine provinces, of which you have just entered Burgos. Along the Camino Francés, you will also pass through Palencia and León before leaving Castilla y León. The other 6 provinces (Salamanca, Zamora, Valladolid, Avila, Segovia, and Soria) are all part of one camino or another as they cross central Spain.

Just like La Rioja, you will continue to pass through villages with less than a two hundred (often less than one hundred) residents.

Burgos also marks the start of the Meseta, Spain’s central plateau and the breadbasket of the peninsula. The average elevation here is close to 800m and the weather can vary drastically from hot days to bone-chilling nights.

While the next 300km have a reputation for being flat and boring they are anything but.

It is here, at elevation and with wide open skies that the camino begins to work on your mind.

Altitude: 
737
Burgos Flag
Distance to Santiago: 
545.60
Altitude: 
743

Redecilla is the first town in Castilla y León along the Camino Francés and was an important stop along the way during the 12th century, when two pilgrim hospices cared for pilgrims. One of them, San Lázaro, lends its name to the municipal albergue.

The gem of Redecilla is the Romanesque...

Name Beds Price booking.com

1

Albergue municipal San Lázaro
Mayor, 24

Municipal
38 Donativo

2

Hotel Redecilla del Camino
Mayor, 12

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Redecilla del Camino on the Camino de Santiago

3

Albergue Essentia
Mayor, 34

Private
10 7
Photo in Redecilla del Camino on the Camino de Santiago
Distance to Santiago: 
543.90
Altitude: 
769

Small town with little more than a church, an ermita, and a truck stop restaurant with a reputation for serving up some decent hot chocolate.

History: 

The town gets its name from the born-here Francisco Delgado López, before that it was known as Villa de Pun. Francisco served as the Bishop of both Jaén and Lugo and was one of the most respected Counter-Reformation theologians at the Council of Trent.

Notice: 

Mind the traffic along the N-120 as you leave town.

Name Beds Price booking.com

1

El Chocolatero
N-120, km. 57,5

Hostal
Photo in El Chocolatero on the Camino de Santiago

2

Albergue Bideluze
Mayor, 8

Private
18 10
Distance to Santiago: 
542.00
Altitude: 
797

This sleepy agricultural town is best known for being the birthplace (cuña) of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. History did not see fit to preserve his house but the font in which he was baptized remains in the church.

Sandwiches and beverages are available at the Parada Viloria albergue.

Name Beds Price booking.com

1

Refugio de Peregrinos Acacio y Orietta
Nueva, 6

Private
10 5 Photo in Refugio de Peregrinos Acacio y Orietta on the Camino de Santiago

2

Parada Viloria
Bajera, 37

Private
16 5 Photo in Parada Viloria on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Parada Viloria on the Camino de Santiago

3

Hotel Mihotelito
Plaza Mayor, 16

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Mihotelito on the Camino de Santiago
Photo in Viloria de Rioja on the Camino de Santiago
Distance to Santiago: 
538.50
Altitude: 
787

If you wish to stay in the albergue here, be advised that it is not in the village proper but rather set off from the main road a bit to the north.

Do not let the grandiose name of the village fool you, neither the town nor the river is remarkable.

Name Beds Price

1

Albergue San Luis de Francia
Carretera de Quintanilla

Private
26 5 Photo in Albergue San Luis de Francia on the Camino de Santiago
Distance to Santiago: 
533.70
Altitude: 
773

Belorado manages to maintain some of its advantages, but hard times have certainly taken their toll. A walk around the perimeter streets will reveal a quickly crumbling infrastructure. On the hillside sit the remains of a castle.

Still, several churches remain and the hospices have been...

History: 

After a long string of nearly abandoned villages, Belorado is something of a wonder. Once again we have geography to thank; Belorado sits right in the middle of a narrow pass that cuts through two hillsides. The difference in altitude is small, less than 200m, but the hills are steep enough to...

Name Beds Price booking.com

1

Refugio parroquial de Belorado - Santa Maria y San Pedro
Barrio del Corro

Parochial
24 Donativo Photo in Refugio parroquial de Belorado - Santa Maria y San Pedro on the Camino de Santiago

2

Albergue de Peregrinos Cuatro Cantones
Hipolito López Bernal, 10

Private
65 7/11 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos Cuatro Cantones on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Peregrinos Cuatro Cantones on the Camino de Santiago

3

Albergue A Santiago
Camino de los Paules

Private
89 5/7 Photo in Albergue A Santiago on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue A Santiago on the Camino de Santiago

4

Albergue de peregrinos Caminante
Mayor, 36

Private
22 5 Photo in Albergue de peregrinos Caminante on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de peregrinos Caminante on the Camino de Santiago

5

Albergue Rural El Corro
Mayor, 68

Municipal
40 6 Photo in Albergue Rural El Corro on the Camino de Santiago

6

Hotel Jacobeo
Burgos, 3

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Jacobeo on the Camino de Santiago

7

Pensión Casa Waslala
Mayor, 57

Pension
6

8

Pensión Toñi
Redecilla del Campo, 7

Pension
Photo in Pensión Toñi on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Pensión Toñi on the Camino de Santiago

9

Hotel Rural Verdeancho
El Corro, 11

Hotel Rural

10

Hotel Belorado
Burgos, 30

Hotel

11

El Salto
Los Cauces

Private
24 15 Photo in El Salto on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in El Salto on the Camino de Santiago
Distance to Santiago: 
529.00
Altitude: 
822

In recent years, the diminutive Tosantos has grown up a bit and now has a bar. The albergue parroquial is somewhat unique and maintains a tradition of communal meals and singalongs.

The nearby Ermita de la Peña, built into the cliffs, is a must see. A statue of Jesus as a child was...

Name Beds Price

1

Albergue Parroquial de Tosantos
Santa Marina

Parochial
30 Donativo Photo in Albergue Parroquial de Tosantos on the Camino de Santiago

2

Albergue Los Arancones
La Iglesia

Private
16 10
Distance to Santiago: 
527.00
Altitude: 
853
Name Beds Price

1

Albergue de San Roque
Plaza Mayor

Municipal
20 6 Photo in Albergue de San Roque on the Camino de Santiago
Distance to Santiago: 
525.40
Altitude: 
895

Espinosa has seen better days. Even with centuries of passing pilgrims it struggles to stay on the map. In recent years, a few buildings have been rehabilitated into an albergue and a bar.

Name Beds Price

1

Albergue La Campana de Espinosa del Camino
Espinosa del Camino

Private
10 Donativo

2

Albergue Espinosa del Camino
Barruelo, 23

Private
10 5
Distance to Santiago: 
522.00
Altitude: 
942

To the right of the main road when entering are a pair of bars that serve food to a mix of pilgrims and long road truck drivers, the Meson Alba being the most authentic dive of the two.

Notice: 

Be extremely cautious with passing traffic. Buildings crowd the road and force you to share the space with very large and fast moving trucks.

The Road: 

Villafranca Montes de Oca, named for the nettle-filled mountains to the west, sits at the foot of the Pedraja pass. If you have become accustomed to the gently rolling hills behind you, brace yourself for a climb. Between here and San Juan de Ortega lay 12km of fountain-less and featureless...

Name Beds Price booking.com

1

Albergue de Peregrinos San Antonio Abad
Hospital, 4

Private
40 6/10 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos San Antonio Abad on the Camino de Santiago

2

Albergue de Villafranca Montes de Oca
Mayor

Municipal
60 7

3

Pensión El Pájaro
la Plaza, 2

Pension

4

Casa Rural La Alpargatería
Mayor, 2

Casa Rural

5

Pensión Jomer
Mayor, 52

Pension

Alto de la Pedraja

To Santiago: 
518.40
1150

The path here intersects with several ATV trails. It is well marked but still requires some attention. Like the river crossings in Navarra, the low scrubland that surrounds you here was a popular place for bandits to lay in wait.

A lovely new oasis has sprung up here at the hand of a pilgrim and artist who encourages you to add your own personal touch to the small forest rest stop. The hammocks are a welcome break too.

History: 

En route to the alto you will encounter a poorly kept monument dedicated to a group of men from Burgos whose bodies were dumped here after their execution during the Civil War.

Distance to Santiago: 
510.10
Altitude: 
1006

The monastery has been partially rehabilitated into an albergue for pilgrims, and it is here that pilgrims were served garlic soup by the monks; a tradition that continued up to recent times. If you have never spent the night in a room full of pilgrims that have eaten garlic soup for dinner, you...

History: 

Contrary to popular belief, the village is not the birthplace of San Juan, he was born 20km away in the town of Quintanaortuño (north of Burgos). He was the disciple of Santo Domingo, and together they built many of the roads and bridges between here and Nájera. He earned the name Ortega, which...

Notice: 

Ignore the information board when leaving San Juan de Ortega. It is incorrect and may trick you into taking the wrong road to Castañares. Continue straight along the camino that heads back into the forest.

Name Beds Price

1

Albergue del Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega
La Iglesia, 1

Parochial
70 7 Photo in Albergue del Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue del Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega on the Camino de Santiago

2

Hotel Rural La Henera
La Iglesia, 4

Hotel Rural
Photo in San Juan de Ortega on the Camino de Santiago

Information board with optional routes to Burgos

Ignore the information board when leaving San Juan de Ortega. It is incorrect and may trick you into taking the wrong road to Castañares. Continue straight along the camino that heads back into the forest.

Altitude: 
1005
Routing
Camino Frances
detour
Primary
Yellow
To Santi: 
509.50
Distance to Santiago: 
506.20
Altitude: 
966

A pleasant but small town with a quirky mix of albergues. Bar Alquimista is a friendly stop if you are passing through, and they do a decent dinner too.

The Road: 

Just outside of town, on your left-hand side and likely obscured by tall grass, sits one of San Juan de Ortega’s smaller engineering feats. It only takes one span to cross the diminutive Río Vena.

Name Beds Price

1

Albergue El Pajar de Agés
Paralela Medio, 12

Private
34 10 Photo in Albergue El Pajar de Agés on the Camino de Santiago

2

Albergue San Rafael
Medio, 19

Private
16 10 Photo in Albergue San Rafael on the Camino de Santiago

3

Albergue La Taberna de Agés
Medio, 21

Private
36 10 Photo in Albergue municipal de Agés on the Camino de Santiago
Photo in Agés on the Camino de Santiago
Distance to Santiago: 
503.80
Altitude: 
952

For the better part of the last 3 decades excavations have been underway to learn more about our prehistory. In the caves outside of town, the remains of early humans have been discovered; some as old as 800,000 years. Most of the discoveries have been transferred to the Museum of Human...

History: 

Atapuerca, its prolific prehistoric discoveries aside, remains a small outpost. It was here where King Garcia of Nájera-Pamplona lost his life in a battle against his brother Ferdinand I of León on September 1st, 1054. The large stone marker in the field before town that marks his end; the...

The Road: 

From Atapuerca, the camino climbs upward into the Atapuerca mountains before descending again into Cardeñuela.

Name Beds Price booking.com

1

Albergue el Peregrino de Atapuerca
Carretera, 105

Private
48 8 Photo in Albergue el Peregrino de Atapuerca on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue el Peregrino de Atapuerca on the Camino de Santiago

2

Albergue de Peregrinos La Hutte

Private
18 6 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos La Hutte on the Camino de Santiago

3

Albergue de Olmos de Atapuerca
La Iglesia

Municipal
24 7

4

Casa Rural Papasol
Enmedio, 36

Casa Rural
Photo in Casa Rural Papasol on the Camino de Santiago

5

Pensión El Palomar
Revilla, 22

Pension

Sierra de Atapuerca

To Santiago: 
501.50
1070
Distance to Santiago: 
499.40
Altitude: 
945
Distance to Santiago: 
498.00
Altitude: 
926
Name Beds Price

1

Albergue Vía Minera
Medio, 19

Private
42 5/8 Photo in Albergue Vía Minera on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Vía Minera on the Camino de Santiago

2

Albergue Santa Fe
Los Huertos, 2

Private
23 8 Photo in Albergue Santa Fe on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Santa Fe on the Camino de Santiago

3

Albergue Municipal de Cardeñuela Riopico
Cardeñuela Riopico

Private
16 5 Photo in Albergue Municipal de Cardeñuela Riopico on the Camino de Santiago

4

Casa Rural La Cardeñuela
Vía Minera

Casa Rural
Distance to Santiago: 
495.70
Altitude: 
911

Neither of the two towns along the Río Pico is remarkable for much. Pay attention when leaving the latter; shortly outside of town you will be faced with the first decision regarding how to enter Burgos.

Name Beds Price

1

Casa Rural Fortaleza
Principal, 31

Casa Rural
Photo in Casa Rural Fortaleza on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Casa Rural Fortaleza on the Camino de Santiago

2

Albergue El Peregrino
Principal, 1

Private
18 5

Left to Castañares or Straight to Vilafria

Less than 1km after leaving Orbaneja Ríopico the camino splits, offering two different ways to get to Burgos. Of the two, the River Route is the strong favorite but the yellow arrows come and go as local business vandalize the official markers in an attempt to divert traffic.

‌River Route, via Castañares - 11.9

Although the trail through Castañares is considered by some to be an alternative route, it offers a much more pleasent and fully signed way to the center of Burgos. There are a few tricks, since from Castañares there are also two trails, one along the road and one along the river. To begin your way to Castañares, follow these directions:

When leaving Orbaneja you will cross a bridge over the AP-1 (see map on previous page). A short distance afterward, at the junction leading to a housing development on your left hand side, turn left and follow the trail to Castañares. From Castañares you will have another choice between the road and a trail (see map below).

If you have any doubts about how you begin the River Route, or “Camino Fluvial” to Burgos, inquire in the Bar Peregrina T. Owners Cesar and Paloma will point you in the right direction. They speak English and are quite helpful.

‌Via VilLafría - 11.8

When leaving Orbaneja you will cross a bridge over the AP-1. A short distance afterward, at the junction leading to a housing development on your left hand side, continue straight for the road via Vilafría. This route will take you around the airport and is city walking along the sidewalk to the center of Burgos.

Altitude: 
904
Routing
Camino Frances
detour
Primary
Yellow
To Santi: 
494.60