Camino Francés in Burgos | Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago

Castilla y León / Burgos

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Here you leave La Rioja behind and enter into Castilla y León, the largest of Spain’s autonomous communities. It is comprised of nine provinces, of which you have just entered Burgos. Along the Camino Francés, you will also pass through Palencia and León before leaving Castilla y León. The other 6 provinces (Salamanca, Zamora, Valladolid, Avila, Segovia, and Soria) are all part of one camino or another as they cross central Spain.

Just like La Rioja, you will continue to pass through villages with less than a two hundred (often less than one hundred) residents.

Burgos Flag

Redecilla del Camino

Distance to Santiago: 
545.60
1.70km
Altitude: 
743

Redecilla is the first town in Castilla y León along the Camino Francés and was an important stop along the way during the 12th century, when two pilgrim hospices cared for pilgrims. One of them, San Lázaro, lends its name to the municipal albergue.

The gem of Redecilla is the Romanesque baptismal font in the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Calle.

There is a tourist information office here, remarkable given the size of the town but easily explained by its location.

Photo in Redecilla del Camino on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue municipal San Lázaro
Mayor, 24

Municipal
38 Donativo
2 Hotel Redecilla del Camino
Mayor, 12

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Redecilla del Camino on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Essentia
Mayor, 34

Private
10 7

Castildelgado

Distance to Santiago: 
543.90
1.90km
Altitude: 
769

Small town with little more than a church, an ermita, and a truck stop restaurant with a reputation for serving up some decent hot chocolate.

Notice: 

Mind the traffic along the N-120 as you leave town.

History: 

The town gets its name from the born-here Francisco Delgado López, before that it was known as Villa de Pun. Francisco served as the Bishop of both Jaén and Lugo and was one of the most respected Counter-Reformation theologians at the Council of Trent.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 El Chocolatero
N-120, km. 57,5

Hostal
Photo in El Chocolatero on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Bideluze
Mayor, 8

Private
18 10

Viloria de Rioja

Distance to Santiago: 
542.00
3.50km
Altitude: 
797

This sleepy agricultural town is best known for being the birthplace (cuña) of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. History did not see fit to preserve his house but the font in which he was baptized remains in the church.

Sandwiches and beverages are available at the Parada Viloria albergue.

Photo in Viloria de Rioja on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Refugio de Peregrinos Acacio y Orietta
Nueva, 6

Private
10 5 Photo in Refugio de Peregrinos Acacio y Orietta on the Camino de Santiago
2 Parada Viloria
Bajera, 37

Private
16 5 Photo in Parada Viloria on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Parada Viloria on the Camino de Santiago
3 Hotel Mihotelito
Plaza Mayor, 16

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Mihotelito on the Camino de Santiago

Villamayor del Río

Distance to Santiago: 
538.50
4.80km
Altitude: 
787

If you wish to stay in the albergue here, be advised that it is not in the village proper but rather set off from the main road a bit to the north.

Do not let the grandiose name of the village fool you, neither the town nor the river is remarkable.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue San Luis de Francia
Carretera de Quintanilla

Private
26 5 Photo in Albergue San Luis de Francia on the Camino de Santiago

Belorado

Distance to Santiago: 
533.70
4.70km
Altitude: 
773

Belorado manages to maintain some of its advantages, but hard times have certainly taken their toll. A walk around the perimeter streets will reveal a quickly crumbling infrastructure. On the hillside sit the remains of a castle.

Still, several churches remain and the hospices have been replaced by many modern albergues. The main square is a nice place to hide from the sun if you fancy a rest.

Do like the locals and avoid the restaurants in the main square; one of the best options for dinner is at the Cuatro Cantones albergue restaurant.

The Iglesia de Santa María has an altarpiece which depicts Santiago both as a Pilgrim and as a Moorslayer.

Fiesta: 

The Fiesta of San Vitores is held on the 26th of August, and Thanksgiving is held on the first weekend in September.

History: 

After a long string of nearly abandoned villages, Belorado is something of a wonder. Once again we have geography to thank; Belorado sits right in the middle of a narrow pass that cuts through two hillsides. The difference in altitude is small, less than 200m, but the hills are steep enough to provide some protection and fighting advantage. It was well developed before the arrival of Santo Domingo with his knack for setting towns on an east-west axis. At one time, the town boasted 8 churches, a thriving market, and 2 pilgrim hospices.

Also of note are the caves that dot the hillside here. They drew a not insignificant number of hermits to the area, many of which became well known. Santo Domingo chose a life of hermitage when he was turned away from the monastery, and other orders like that of St. Millán also began with a single cave-dwelling hermit.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Refugio parroquial de Belorado - Santa Maria y San Pedro
Barrio del Corro

Parochial
24 Donativo Photo in Refugio parroquial de Belorado - Santa Maria y San Pedro on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue de Peregrinos Cuatro Cantones
Hipolito López Bernal, 10

Private
65 7/11 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos Cuatro Cantones on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Peregrinos Cuatro Cantones on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue A Santiago
Camino de los Paules

Private
89 5/7 Photo in Albergue A Santiago on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue A Santiago on the Camino de Santiago
4 Albergue de peregrinos Caminante
Mayor, 36

Private
22 5 Photo in Albergue de peregrinos Caminante on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de peregrinos Caminante on the Camino de Santiago
5 Albergue Rural El Corro
Mayor, 68

Municipal
40 6 Photo in Albergue Rural El Corro on the Camino de Santiago
6 Hotel Jacobeo
Burgos, 3

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Jacobeo on the Camino de Santiago
7 Pensión Casa Waslala
Mayor, 57

Pension
6
8 Pensión Toñi
Redecilla del Campo, 7

Pension
Photo in Pensión Toñi on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Pensión Toñi on the Camino de Santiago
9 Hotel Rural Verdeancho
El Corro, 11

Hotel Rural
10 Hotel Belorado
Burgos, 30

Hotel
11 El Salto
Los Cauces

Private
24 15 Photo in El Salto on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in El Salto on the Camino de Santiago

Tosantos

Distance to Santiago: 
529.00
2.00km
Altitude: 
822

In recent years, the diminutive Tosantos has grown up a bit and now has a bar. The albergue parroquial is somewhat unique and maintains a tradition of communal meals and singalongs.

The nearby Ermita de la Peña, built into the cliffs, is a must see. A statue of Jesus as a child was hidden there for protection during the 9th century. It now spends half the year in the Ermita and the other half in the Iglesia de San Esteban. Ask there for the key. If you stay in the albergue here, the hospitalero will likely offer a guided visit.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue Parroquial de Tosantos
Santa Marina

Parochial
30 Donativo Photo in Albergue Parroquial de Tosantos on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Los Arancones
La Iglesia

Private
16 10

Villafranca Montes de Oca

Distance to Santiago: 
522.00
11.90km
Altitude: 
942

To the right of the main road when entering are a pair of bars that serve food to a mix of pilgrims and long road truck drivers, the Meson Alba being the most authentic dive of the two.

Notice: 

Be extremely cautious with passing traffic. Buildings crowd the road and force you to share the space with very large and fast moving trucks.

The Road: 

Villafranca Montes de Oca, named for the nettle-filled mountains to the west, sits at the foot of the Pedraja pass. If you have become accustomed to the gently rolling hills behind you, brace yourself for a climb. Between here and San Juan de Ortega lay 12km of fountain-less and featureless hiking. There are no shops in San Juan, but a bar there does serve food. Pack accordingly. To follow the camino, turn right uphill towards the church.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Peregrinos San Antonio Abad
Hospital, 4

Private
40 6/10 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos San Antonio Abad on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue de Villafranca Montes de Oca
Mayor

Municipal
60 7
3 Pensión El Pájaro
la Plaza, 2

Pension
4 Casa Rural La Alpargatería
Mayor, 2

Casa Rural
5 Pensión Jomer
Mayor, 52

Pension

Alto de la Pedraja

1150

The path here intersects with several ATV trails. It is well marked but still requires some attention. Like the river crossings in Navarra, the low scrubland that surrounds you here was a popular place for bandits to lay in wait.

A lovely new oasis has sprung up here at the hand of a pilgrim and artist who encourages you to add your own personal touch to the small forest rest stop. The hammocks are a welcome break too.

San Juan de Ortega

Distance to Santiago: 
510.10
3.90km
Altitude: 
1006

The monastery has been partially rehabilitated into an albergue for pilgrims, and it is here that pilgrims were served garlic soup by the monks; a tradition that continued up to recent times. If you have never spent the night in a room full of pilgrims that have eaten garlic soup for dinner, you have not lived.

The church has been restored and is a popular place for weddings. Twice a year (the 20th of March and the 23rd of September, both equinoxes) at around 5pm, light shines through one of the windows to illuminate one of the capitals, moving from Anunciation to the birth of Christ.

Fiesta: 

The communities surrounding San Juan holds a small pilgrimage (a romería) to the church every 2nd of June.

Notice: 

Ignore the information board when leaving San Juan de Ortega. It is incorrect and may trick you into taking the wrong road to Castañares. Continue straight along the camino that heads back into the forest.

History: 

Contrary to popular belief, the village is not the birthplace of San Juan, he was born 20km away in the town of Quintanaortuño (north of Burgos). He was the disciple of Santo Domingo, and together they built many of the roads and bridges between here and Nájera. He earned the name Ortega, which derives from nettle, by building a hospice here and another in the forests between here and Villafranca.

His dedication to pilgrims en route to Santiago is a direct result of his own pilgrimage to the Holy Land. During his return journey, his ship was wrecked, and a promise was made by Juan to San Nicolas de Bari (himself a benevolent Bishop in Turkey and the model for present day Santa Claus). Juan would, in exchange for safety, devote himself to pilgrims. Back on dry land, he chose these mountains as his base; they were notoriously dangerous at the time, being both confusing to navigate and thick with thieves.

The hospice he built here grew to be a full monastery and attracted the attention of nobility, which placed it under the protection of nearby the Catedral de Burgos. Neglected for centuries, it is now undergoing a remarkable restoration and accurate replicas of the intricate stonework can be viewed up close.

Photo in San Juan de Ortega on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue del Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega
La Iglesia, 1

Parochial
70 7 Photo in Albergue del Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue del Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega on the Camino de Santiago
2 Hotel Rural La Henera
La Iglesia, 4

Hotel Rural

Information board with optional routes to Burgos

1005

Ignore the information board when leaving San Juan de Ortega. It is incorrect and may trick you into taking the wrong road to Castañares. Continue straight along the camino that heads back into the forest.

Agés

Distance to Santiago: 
506.20
2.40km
Altitude: 
966

A pleasant but small town with a quirky mix of albergues. Bar Alquimista is a friendly stop if you are passing through, and they do a decent dinner too.

The Road: 

Just outside of town, on your left-hand side and likely obscured by tall grass, sits one of San Juan de Ortega’s smaller engineering feats. It only takes one span to cross the diminutive Río Vena.

Photo in Agés on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue El Pajar de Agés
Paralela Medio, 12

Private
34 10 Photo in Albergue El Pajar de Agés on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue San Rafael
Medio, 19

Private
16 10 Photo in Albergue San Rafael on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue La Taberna de Agés
Medio, 21

Private
36 10 Photo in Albergue municipal de Agés on the Camino de Santiago
Things to see
Puente Photo of Puente on the Camino de Santiago

Atapuerca

Distance to Santiago: 
503.80
4.40km
Altitude: 
952

For the better part of the last 3 decades excavations have been underway to learn more about our prehistory. In the caves outside of town, the remains of early humans have been discovered; some as old as 800,000 years. Most of the discoveries have been transferred to the Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos.

The Road: 

From Atapuerca, the camino climbs upward into the Atapuerca mountains before descending again into Cardeñuela.

History: 

Atapuerca, its prolific prehistoric discoveries aside, remains a small outpost. It was here where King Garcia of Nájera-Pamplona lost his life in a battle against his brother Ferdinand I of León on September 1st, 1054. The large stone marker in the field before town that marks his end; the locals refer to it as el fin de rey, or the end of the King.

Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue el Peregrino de Atapuerca
Carretera, 105

Private
48 8 Photo in Albergue el Peregrino de Atapuerca on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue el Peregrino de Atapuerca on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue de Peregrinos La Hutte

Private
18 6 Photo in Albergue de Peregrinos La Hutte on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue de Olmos de Atapuerca
La Iglesia

Municipal
24 7
4 Casa Rural Papasol
Enmedio, 36

Casa Rural
Photo in Casa Rural Papasol on the Camino de Santiago
5 Pensión El Palomar
Revilla, 22

Pension

Orbaneja Ríopico

Distance to Santiago: 
495.70
4.80km
Altitude: 
911

Neither of the two towns along the Río Pico is remarkable for much. Pay attention when leaving the latter; shortly outside of town you will be faced with the first decision regarding how to enter Burgos.

Name Beds Price
1 Casa Rural Fortaleza
Principal, 31

Casa Rural
Photo in Casa Rural Fortaleza on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Casa Rural Fortaleza on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue El Peregrino
Principal, 1

Private
18 5

Left to Castañares or Straight to Vilafria

904

Less than 1km after leaving Orbaneja Ríopico the camino splits, offering two different ways to get to Burgos. Of the two, the River Route is the strong favorite but the yellow arrows come and go as local business vandalize the official markers in an attempt to divert traffic.

‌River Route, via Castañares - 11.9

‌WARNING: Finding the river route can be tricky

885

From Castañares there are again two routes into Burgos, the Road Route and the River Route. The latter can be difficult to find because businesses repaint the yellow arrows on an almost daily basis. The most important part to remember is that the River Route does not leave Castañares along the busy road, see map.

To find it, cross the main road in Castañares near the bar La Peregrina. A short ways on you will find a small plaza and children’s play area with a fountain. Stay on that road, the Lugar de Barrio Castañares, towards a cement factory at its end.

Burgos

Distance to Santiago: 
483.80
11.20km
Altitude: 
868

Burgos is a city that brings history to life. For many pilgrims it is the first place on the Camino Francés that beckons a two-night stay; and rightly so, Burgos has a tremendous amount of museums, churches, one cathedral, a few monasteries, and a healthy (or not) number of bars and restaurants to keep you busy.

On the not to miss list are the Catedral y Museo de Burgos in the very center of the city, and the Castillo de Burgos perched on the hillside overlooking the town.

The Museum of Human Evolution houses the artifacts from Atapuerca, and the Arco de Santa María (free visit) houses an exhibition hall.

Fiesta: 

With such a long history it should come as no surprise that the fiestas and festivals celebrated in Burgos range from solemn to spectacular. Among the more notable celebrations are the processions of Semana Santa (Holy Week), Corpus Christi (a moveable feast, celebrated on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, which depends on Pentecost Sunday, which of course depends on Easter Sunday... the place to be is at the Monastery of Las Huelgas), and the festival of San Pedro and San Pablo (known together as Sampedros) in June.

Additionally, there are a number of more archaic events, some Moorish in origin and others pagan, that take place throughout the year. Burgos is a lively city.

Notice: 

Once at the far end of Burgos be wary of misleading signs (some quite official looking) that point the way to Villabilla. That town has been severed from camino traffic by the construction of a rail track and some efforts have been made to surreptitiously reconnect it.

The Road: 

The road out of Burgos is, thankfully, much shorter than the road in. The camino from here enters the meseta, with its endless plains of wheat. The landscape, while seemingly unremarkable, offers a wealth of flora and fauna and opportunities for peaceful contemplation.

History: 

Burgos was originally founded at the end of the 9th century in a bid to repopulate these northern plains. From the expulsions of the Muslims (around the end of the 11th century) it quickly became one of Castilla’s most important city. It was here that the Catholic Kings Isabel and Ferdinand welcomed home Christopher Columbus after his second voyage to the new world, and it was here where General Francisco Franco was publicly proclaimed as Generalísimo in 1936 and which would serve as the dictators base of operations until the end of the civil war.

Set along the wonderful Río Arlanzon, the city was built with massive walls and even more massive gates. In spite of this, the territory of Burgos (but more to the point Castilla) was widely disputed. The seed for much of the fighting was the will of King Fernando I, who although wise enough to rule over the northern regions, was not too clever in managing his estate. He chose to divide the north into three regions upon his death, with each region going to a different heir.

Alfonso VI received León, García received Galicia, Sancho II received Castilla, and his daughter Urraca received the city of Zamora.

This led to more land disputes, and in the end, it was Alfonso that reigned over the whole territory and was crowned the emperor of the Iberian Peninsula. This was at the end of 11th century, and the wealth collected by Alfonso from tariffs throughout the peninsula was transformed into palaces and a Cathedral, catapulting Burgos into prosperity.

Burgos is also the home of El Cid, a fierce warrior, and cunning politician. He was banished from the city by King Alfonso for having forced him to take an oath attesting to his innocence in the death of his brother Sancho. El Cid would eventually turn down an invitation to return and fight for Alfonso, and instead traveled east to Valencia where he maneuvered himself into a kingdom of his own. He is now buried in the Cathedral.

Photo in Burgos on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Burgos on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Burgos on the Camino de Santiago
Photo in Burgos on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Burgos on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue Municipal de Burgos
Fernan González, 28

Municipal
150 5 Photo in Albergue Municipal de Burgos on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue Emaús
San Pedro de Cardeña, 31

Parochial
20 Donativo
3 Albergue Divina Pastora
Lain Calvo, 10

Association
16 5 Photo in Albergue Divina Pastora on the Camino de Santiago
4 Pensión Bella Vista
Villadiego, 19

Pension
5 Hostal Manjón
Gran Teatro, 1

Hostal
Photo in Hostal Manjón on the Camino de Santiago
6 Hotel Alda Entrearcos
Paloma, 4

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Alda Entrearcos on the Camino de Santiago
7 Hostal riMboMbin
Sombrerería, 6

Hostal
Photo in Hostal riMboMbin on the Camino de Santiago
8 Hotel Abba Burgos
Fernán Gonzalez, 72

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Abba Burgos on the Camino de Santiago
9 Hotel Cordón
La Puebla, 6

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Cordón on the Camino de Santiago
10 Pensión Santiago
Santiago Apóstol, 8

Pension
Photo in Pensión Santiago on the Camino de Santiago
11 Hotel Mesón del Cid
Plaza Santa María, 8

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Mesón del Cid on the Camino de Santiago
12 Hotel Puerta Romeros
San Amaro, 2

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Puerta Romeros on the Camino de Santiago
13 Hotel Abadía Camino de Santiago
Villadiego, 10

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Abadía Camino de Santiago on the Camino de Santiago
14 Hostal Vía Láctea
Villadiego, 16

Hostal
Photo in Hostal Vía Láctea on the Camino de Santiago
15 Hostal Hilton
Vitoria, 165

Hostal
Photo in Hostal Hilton on the Camino de Santiago
16 Hostal Lar
Cardenal Benlloch, 1

Hostal
Photo in Hostal Lar on the Camino de Santiago
17 Hostel Burgos
Miranda, 4

Private
68 16.50

Detour to Santo Domingo de Silos

One of the longer detours on the Camino Francés, this one is perhaps better reached by the buses which leave the terminal in the evening, and return the following morning. Inquire at the tourist information office about accommodation there, which should be arranged before you go.

Tardajos

Distance to Santiago: 
473.20
2.10km
Altitude: 
821

There are a few bar/bakeries and a pharmacy on your right as you enter the town, the former serve up Torta de Aceite, a type of flatbread that is both delicious and unique to the area.

The Road: 

The camino departs from the main road in Tardajos and from here you won’t return to anything resembling a busy road until Frómista, do not be tempted to keep on the main road but rather cross the street and pass through the village.

History: 

Passing through Tardajos, along the shortest path possible, the average pilgrim would be forgiven for overlooking its historical significance.

In fact, Tardajos lies at the intersection of the two primary and ancient trade routes that bisected this land. It was once a walled city and had three magnificent churches. Only one, the Iglesia de Santa María, remains.

Tardajos, like Rabé de las Calzada (ahead), also had a castle on a hill.

Photo in Tardajos on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Tardajos on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Tardajos
Asunción

Municipal
18 Donativo
2 Albergue La Fábrica
Camino de la Fábrica, 27

Private
32, 14 in the albergue. 12 Photo in Albergue La Fábrica on the Camino de Santiago
3 Pensión Mary
Pozas

Pension
4 Albergue La Casa de Beli
General Yagüe, 16

Private
30 10

Rabé de las Calzadas

Distance to Santiago: 
471.10
7.50km
Altitude: 
829

The camino has now entered the central Meseta, and the landscape here has had a lasting effect on the character of the people, but its lack of naturally durable building materials has meant the opposite for the architecture. Many of the treasures that once stood here are all but lost, the oldest remaining building is the 17th century palace house and village church.
The broad expanses here have a certain effect on the pilgrim psyche and to skip over it is to miss out on an important stage of the journey. Do not expect to see many of the places along the way until the last moment, they are often built into the shallow valleys where shade and water collects.

The Road: 

There is a fountain and a picnic area 2.4 km outside of Rabé de las Calzadas.

Photo in Rabé de las Calzadas on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue Liberanos Domine
Francisco Ribera, 6

Private
24 8 Photo in Albergue Liberanos Domine on the Camino de Santiago

Hornillos del Camino

Distance to Santiago: 
463.60
5.30km
Altitude: 
820

Hornillos is one of the best examples of a “Royal” camino road: in this case one long street (the aptly named calle real) stretched out along the camino. This layout allowed every building to face the camino, a trait which reminds us that the current heavy development along the camino is anything but a new phenomenon. The town once belonged to the monastery of St. Denis and was home to a Benedictine community.

Folklore places Charlemagne here too, baking bread for his troops along the river.

Ruins and medieval bridges are the only visible remains.

Photo in Hornillos del Camino on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue de Hornillos del Camino
Plaza de la Iglesia

Municipal
32 6 Photo in Albergue de Hornillos del Camino on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de Hornillos del Camino on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue El Alfar de Hornillos
Cantarranas, 8

Private
20 9 Photo in Albergue El Alfar de Hornillos on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue El Alfar de Hornillos on the Camino de Santiago
3 Hornillos Meeting Point
Cantarranas, 3

Private
32 10 Photo in Hornillos Meeting Point on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Hornillos Meeting Point on the Camino de Santiago
4 Casa Rural La Casa del Abuelo
Real, 44

Casa Rural
5 Casa Rural de Sol a Sol
Cantarranas, 7

Casa Rural

Arroyo San Bol

Distance to Santiago: 
458.30
5.40km
Altitude: 
890

The spring that gives this arroyo (creek) its name, also cures your feet. The operations of the albergue here were passed to a nearby municipality, who electrified and modernized this former hippy hideaway.

The small deviation from the camino that takes you there is worth the shade and rejuvenating spring it provides.

Photo in Arroyo San Bol on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Arroyo San Bol on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue Arroyo de San Bol

Private
12 5 Photo in Albergue Arroyo de San Bol on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Arroyo de San Bol on the Camino de Santiago

Hontanas

Distance to Santiago: 
452.90
5.70km
Altitude: 
876

The town of Hontanas derives its name from the numerous natural springs, fontanas, that are to be found here.

If you spend enough time here you are bound to bump into a retired sheep farmer named Victorino who rather horrifically entertains pilgrims by drinking wine poured onto his forehead from the spout of a glass porrón (a glass wine jug with a long tapered spout).

While you could imagine it running down his face, over his nose, and more or less managing to find a path to his mouth, nothing prepares you for the actual spectacle of it.

The Road: 

Do not let the endless expanses of wheat worry you. Hontanas remains out of site until you are quite close, it is hiding in a small depression in an otherwise flat landscape.

Hontanas - Camino de Santiago - 1
Name Beds Price
1 Mesón Albergue El Puntido
La Iglesia, 6

Private
50 5 Photo in Mesón Albergue El Puntido on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Mesón Albergue El Puntido on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue de Hontanas Hospital de San Juan
Real, 26

Municipal
55 5 Photo in Albergue de Hontanas on the Camino de Santiago
3 Albergue Santa Brígida
Real, 15

Private
16 7 Photo in Albergue Santa Brígida on the Camino de Santiago
4 Albergue Juan de Yepes
Real, 1

Private
54 7 Photo in Albergue Juan de Yepes on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Juan de Yepes on the Camino de Santiago
5 Hostal Fuentestrella
Iglesia, 6

Hostal
6 Casa Rural El Descanso
Real, 16

Casa Rural

San Antón - The Ruins

Distance to Santiago: 
447.20
3.50km
Altitude: 
806

The ruins of the monastery and pilgrim hospital of San Antón is a delightful space that seems to embrace the camino, its archway spanning the road itself. Once a sprawling complex there is little that remains.

The albergue here has never seen better days, and the efforts of a dedicated team of volunteer hospitaleros keep the place as traditional as can be expected.

The niches in the archway, previously used by monks to deliver food to late arriving pilgrims, are now a popular spot to leave written messages.

Photo in San Antón on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de San Antón
Carretera de Hontanas-Castrojeriz

Private
12 Donativo Photo in Albergue de San Antón on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de San Antón on the Camino de Santiago

Castrojeriz

Distance to Santiago: 
443.70
3.60km
Altitude: 
817

The longest example of its type, the camino-road layout of Castrojeriz is deceptively long. All three of its churches are worth a visit, and a hike to the ruins of the castle provide a view of the surrounding land that is paralleled only by the climb out of town.

Most pilgrim related services can be found along the Calle Oriente, but the pharmacy and the larger groceries are closer to the main road.

Also along the Oriente is the Hospital del Alma; part art gallery and part meditation space and exactly where you want to go if you seek a bit a peace and quite.

In the main square is a pilgrim shop, one of the last of its kind. The owner is quite a character and has managed to keep up with the times, trading the usual small village wares for the type of high-tech gear that modern pilgrims are looking for.

On the way out of town is the Bar Lagar, named for the well-preserved grape press inside. Check it out for a glimpse of how things used to be done.

History: The houses along the road were built with an unseen secret, that of a tunnel which runs the length of the town and which connects the cellars. Apart from being the private property of the homeowners, it’s exploration is hampered by the construction of concrete dividing walls; a civil war era safety measure to preserve one’s well being. The town was, and still is, passionately divided. That won’t stop you from enjoying the charm it puts out for pilgrims.

The Road: The road ahead climbs up and over the Alto de Mostelares, rather steeply at times. There is not much shade to be had between here and the crossing into Palencia.

The Road: 

The road ahead climbs up and over the Alto de Mostelares. There is not much shade to be had between here and the crossing into Palencia.

History: 

The houses along the road were built with an unseen secret, that of a tunnel which runs the length of the town and which connects the cellars. Apart from being the private property of the homeowners, it’s exploration is hampered by the construction of concrete dividing walls; a civil war era safety measure to preserve one’s well being. The town was, and still is, passionately divided. That won’t stop you from enjoying the charm it puts out for pilgrims.

Photo in Castrojeriz on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Castrojeriz on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price booking.com
1 Albergue Casa Nostra
Real de Oriente, 52

Private
32 6.50 Photo in Albergue Casa Nostra on the Camino de Santiago
2 Albergue de San Esteban
Plaza Mayor

Municipal
30 Donativo/5 (winter) Photo in Albergue de San Esteban on the Camino de Santiago
3 Refugio Tradicional de San Juan
Cordón

Association
28 Donativo
4 Albergue and Camping de Castrojeriz
Virgen del Manzano

Private
35 7 Photo in Albergue and Camping de Castrojeriz on the Camino de Santiago
5 Albergue Ultreia
Real de Oriente, 77

Private
10 Photo in Albergue Ultreia on the Camino de Santiago
6 Hostal El Mesón de Castrojeriz
Cordón, 1

Hostal
Photo in Hostal El Mesón de Castrojeriz on the Camino de Santiago
7 Hotel Iacobus
Puerta del Monte, 3

Hotel
Photo in Hotel Iacobus on the Camino de Santiago
8 Hotel La Cachava
Real, 93

Hotel
Photo in Hotel La Cachava on the Camino de Santiago
9 Hotel La Posada de Castrojeriz
Landelino Tardajos, 5

Hotel
Photo in Hotel La Posada de Castrojeriz on the Camino de Santiago
10 Posada Emebed
Plaza Mayor, 5

Hotel
Photo in Posada Emebed on the Camino de Santiago
11 Albergue Rosalía
Cordón, 2

Private
32 10 Photo in Albergue Rosalía on the Camino de Santiago
12 Albergue Orión
Colegiata, 28

Private
22 11

Alto de Mostelares

5.60km
905

The Alto de Mostelares is the highest of the peaks you will encounter along the meseta, but are not as difficult as they appear from Castrojeriz. From the top the view is more remarkable looking back towards where you came from.

From the top the camino follows along a newly resurfaced stretch of the camino. Always downward, the descent is easy going after the first stretch.

Between the Alto and the Ermita is a shaded picnic area.

Ermita de San Nicolás

Distance to Santiago: 
434.50
1.90km
Altitude: 
767

The Ermita of San Nicolás, like the Ruins of San Anton before Castrojeriz, has a long history of taking care of pilgrims. Both stand on their own far from towns and as a result, they don’t necessarily get the amount of traffic they deserve. Perhaps that is for the best as pilgrims often claim them to be the most memorable albergues along the way.

The Road: 

Just beyond the Ermita is the Puente Fitero which takes you over the river of the same name, and into Palencia.

Name Beds Price
1 Albergue de San Nicolas
Puente Fitero

Parochial
12 Donativo Photo in Albergue de San Nicolas on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue de San Nicolas on the Camino de Santiago