Estella to Najera

Estella [Lizarra]

2.10km to

Ayegui

Geographically speaking, Estella sits to the North of what would otherwise be an easy walk west. It's growth as a commercial center developed not because of pilgrims (as was the case in most places) but rather at the manipulations of King Sancho Ramirez in the end of the 11th.c.

Estella, in spite of not being a very big town, has a lot to offer. The camino enters along the river, and keeps to the west bank. To see many of the churches, or to stay in the Parroquial or ANFAS albergue, you will need to cross the Río Ega.

The town boasts an impressive number of historically significant buildings, so many that to visit them all would take the better part of a weekend. The two not to be missed are the Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra (never actually used by the King of Navarra) and the Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rua. The others are included here for the sake of bringing them to your awareness. Be sure to spend enough time wandering the streets to take it all in.

Thursday is market day in Estella, just as it was 900 years ago. Be sure to stop by the Plaza de los Fueros (opposite the Iglesia de San Juan) for a fresh selection of just about everything.

If you find yourself in Estella for a day of rest and exploration, there are a number of excellent walking trails nearby. Ask for maps in the tourist information office next to the Palacio.

Fountain:

Yes

Bar:

Yes

Grocery:

Yes

Bakery:

Yes

Butcher:

Yes

ATM:

Yes

Medical Center:

Yes

Hotel, Pensión, or Casa Rural:

Yes

Restaurant:

Yes

Tourist Information:

Yes

Public Phone:

Yes

Pharmacy:

Yes

Internet:

Yes

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price
Albergue Parroquial San Miguel Archangel	Parochial	36	Donativo
Camping Lizarra	Camping		5.62€
Albergue de ANFAS de Estella	Association	34	7€
Hospital de Peregrinos de Estella	Municipal	96	6€

Things to see
Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa
Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra
Iglesia de San Miguel Arcángel
Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro
Basílica Nuestra Señora del Puy
Iglesia de San Juan
Iglesia Santa María Jus del Castillo

Ayegui

5.00km to

Azqueta

This town has grown to be connected with Estella. After you cross the road on the far edge of town you walk up a short hill to the wine fountain at Bodegas Irache.

On the way out of Estella, look for the arrows at the second roundabout which direct you away from the road and onto a track which runs up and to the right, taking you behind the commercial shopping centers and into Ayegui.

At the end of town, BEFORE you get to a small park, blue signs with arrows point you downhill and to your left. Follow them, cross over the main road, and resume the camino towards to the Fuente de Vino and the Monasterio de Irache.

Fountain:

Yes

Bakery:

Yes

Butcher:

Yes

ATM:

Yes

Tourist Information:

Yes

Public Phone:

Yes

Pharmacy:

Yes

Internet:

Yes

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price
Camping Iratxe	Camping
Albergue Juvenil Oncineda	Municipal	150	13€
Albergue San Cipriano de Ayegui	Municipal	80	6€

Fuente de Vino

Sponsored by the nearby Bodegas Irache, there is a fountain here which pours both water and wine. The plaque on the wall reads: "If you want to go to Santiago with strength and vitality, of this great wine have a drink and toast to happiness."

Monasterio de Irache

The paper trail for the monastery leads back to 958, and it was the site of Navarra's first pilgrim hospital. It is a large complex set in a landscape of vineyards. Like many other Benedictine monasteries across the peninsula, it has served as both a barrack to Napoleons troops, and as a hospital during the Carlist wars.

Free Admission, but opens a bit late (10am) for pilgrims departing from Estella. The park opposite has picnic tables and nice shady trees.

Alternate to Los Arcos via Luquin

250m. beyond the Monasterio de Irache, the camino splits. The most common direction (partly due to the abandonment of the second route during the construction of the A-12) is to the right. It will take you past the campgrounds of Irache, Azqueta, and Villamayor de Monjardin before zig zagging though the countryside before arriving in Los Arcos.

The second option is to turn to the left. This route does not offer any services apart from those on offer in Luquin (one bar, not always open and a fountain). The route passes through the forests surrounding Montejurra, the small mountain peak with the castle of Monjardin on top. It is my own personal opinion that this lesser traveled route is the more scenic and peaceful option. Outside of Luquin it passed back under the A-12 and rejoins the first option during it's zigging and zagging.

Azqueta

1.70km to

Villamayor de Monjardín

Fountain:

Yes

Bar:

Yes

Villamayor de Monjardín

12.20km to

Los Arcos

Be advised that many other guides list 2 albergues in town. The parochial has closed, leaving only one.
A new albergue is under construction but the completion date seems highly unpredictable. If you happen to see any progress worth sharing please leave a comment.

Fountain:

Yes

Bar:

Yes

Grocery:

Yes

Restaurant:

Yes

Tourist Information:

Yes

Public Phone:

Yes

Pharmacy:

Yes

Internet:

Yes, in bar near albergue

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price	STAMP
Oasis Trails Albergue	Association	25	7€
Albergue Villamayor de Monjardín	Polideportivo	20	15€

Things to see
Castillo de Monjardin / Ermita de San Esteban
Iglesia de San Andres

Los Arcos

6.70km to

Sansol

Los Arcos, a village dating back to it's Roman occupation, is laid out in long streets which run parallel to the Río Odrón. Your approach along the camino brings you into the North side of town, and it was on top of the hills to the East (left on approach) that the castle once stood.

Exiting the town, you pass through the Arco de Felipe V and cross over the Río Odrón. A few of the albergues in town are located on the West side of the river.

For an early breakfast or coffee look to the main road (South and East) of the Church. There are a few early to open bars that cater to early to rise pilgrims and early to work truck drivers.

Fountain:

Yes

Bar:

Yes

Grocery:

Yes

Bakery:

Yes

Butcher:

Yes

ATM:

Yes

Medical Center:

Yes

Hotel, Pensión, or Casa Rural:

Yes

Restaurant:

Yes

Public Phone:

Yes

Pharmacy:

Yes

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price
Albergue Casa de la Abuela	Private	36	8€
Albergue de Peregrinos Isaac Santiago	Association	70	6€
Albergue de la Fuente - Casa de Austria	Private	54	8€
Casa Alberdi	Private	30	10€

Things to see
Iglesia de Santa María
Ermita de San Bias
Arco de Felipe V
Ermita del Calvario
The Convento de Concepcionistas

Sansol

0.90km to

Torres del Río

Named after San Zoilo, a young man martyred in Cordoba under the rule of Diocletian in 304AD. Incidentially, his relics are preserved in the Benedictine abbey of San Zoil in Carrión de los Condes. The local church is likewise dedicated to him.

The yellow arrows have a tendency to stick to the road as it passes through this small village. To see anything of importance, including the church and many of Sansol's several old baroque homes, turn right at the large ceramic tile sign indicating "Sansol" on the side of one of the towns first buildings.

Fountain:

Yes

Bakery:

Yes

Medical Center:

Yes

Tourist Information:

Yes

Public Phone:

Yes

Pharmacy:

Yes

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price	STAMP
Albergue Arcadi y Nines	Private	14	5€

Things to see
Iglesia de San Zoilo

Torres del Río

10.90km to

Viana

Descending from the heights of Sansol into Torres del Rio, one wonders why anyone would build a village in such an awkward to defend location. The only logical reason is the Río Linares which gives the town it's name.

Bar:

Yes

Grocery:

Yes, though small

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price
Albergue La Pata de Oca	Private	42	10€
Albergue Casa Mari	Private	26	7€
Albergue Casa Mariela	Private	54	7€

Things to see
Santo Sepulcro
Iglesia de San Andrés (Torres del Río)

Viana

9.50km to

Logroño

Viana, being a frontier town along the border with Rioja, has been built with obvious fortifications. The most obvious of these is it's perch high above the surrounding hillside.

Although the city walls served their purpose well, holding of several prolonged sieges, the town changed possession several times since it's founding in 1219. It did so largely with the shifting possession of the surrounding land.

Today Viana is a still thriving city that serves as a good stopping point. A pair of albergues, a few churches, the occasional closing of the city streets to run with the bulls, and a handful of good restaurants will all offer a break from walking.

There is as well a nice green park, small but a great place to rest, on the west end of the town near the albergue and church ruins. The spot also offers great views of the plains to the West and the mountains to the North.

http://www.viana.es

Fountain:

Yes

Bar:

Yes

Grocery:

Yes

Bakery:

Yes

Butcher:

Yes

ATM:

Yes

Medical Center:

Yes

Hotel, Pensión, or Casa Rural:

Yes

Restaurant:

Yes

Tourist Information:

Yes

Public Phone:

Yes

Pharmacy:

Yes

Internet:

Yes

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price
Alberguería Andrés Muñoz	Municipal	54	6€
Albergue Parroquial de Viana	Parochial	15	Donativo
Albergue Izar	Private	44	8-15€

Things to see
Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción (Viana)
Ruins of the Iglesia de San Pedro

Ermita de La Virgen de las Cuevas

17th. c. The ermita, and the river that it sits along, are often considered to be the border to La Rioja. The actual modern day border is closer to Logroño but the paper factory that marks it is much less quaint than this ermita.

La Rioja

You have now left Navarra behind you, and the basque 'feeling' which has been fading since Roncesvalles will now disappear almost entirely. The name La Rioja, which first appears on a charter from 1099, is fairly new; prior to that it was referred to as the province of Logroño (the city you enter next and the capital of the province). From a legal perspective, the name La Rioja was not legitimized until after the death of Francisco Franco when Spain transitioned into a democratic monarchy.

La Rioja is the second smallest autonomous community in Spain, and the smallest along the Camino Francés. The camino will pass through several of it's larger cities, including Logroño, Santo Domingo de la Calzada (which is next to the "Rio Oja", and Nájera. It will also pass through countless smaller villages, whose populations seldom exceed 200.

It's much fought over history and diminutive size aside, La Rioja has managed to make it's mark on the world as one of Spain's largest producers of wine. Enjoy it while it lasts, which is only about 60km worth of walking along the camino. If that strikes you as too little, consider a detour to the Monasteries of Yuso and Suso; just enough to prolong your stay and explore some of the finest Monasteries around.

One last bit of cultural/historical information: to the South of Logroño lies the town and castle of Clavijo. It was there in 844 during a battle between Ramiro I of Asturias and Abd ar-Rahman II of Córdoba that the legend of Santiago Matamoros was born. The legend tells of the return of Santiago (long since deceased remember) on a white horse and dressed for battle. Such a sight energized the Christian fighters (who had been on the loosing side of the Moorish invasion) who went on to defeat Abd ar-Rahman. The scene is depicted in countless places along the camino, with Santiago riding high and the moors trampled underfoot.

Logroño

9.10km to

Alto de la Grajera

www.logrono.org

Once you have crossed the Rio Ebro you have entered Logroño proper. The municipal albergue, for a long time the only option in town, is close.

Like a few towns before, and several ahead, Logroño owes it's success to the construction of the stone bridge over the Río Ebro which was for a long time the only suitable crossing point of this wide river. As such it was able to command a toll, to which pilgrims were subjected. Unfortunately very few of Logroño's medieval monuments have survived, nearly all of them destroyed. Logroño in fact, given it's position both along the Ebro and on the frontier, is one of the most battled for cities in the North of Spain.

Leaving Logroño is not unlike departing most large cities in that it winds its way across town in a way that mixes landmarks with practicalities. There are a large amount of arrows painted in curbs and lamp posts but they can still be difficult to see if you are a a pre-dawn walker. If in doubt, make your way to the Cathedral and with it to your back go West. You will pass straight on through two roundabouts and cross over the train tracks. From there keep a lookout for arrows that will turn you to your Left.

Fountain:

Yes

Bar:

Yes

Grocery:

Yes

Bakery:

Yes

Butcher:

Yes

ATM:

Yes

Medical Center:

Yes

Hotel, Pensión, or Casa Rural:

Yes

Restaurant:

Yes

Tourist Information:

Yes

Public Phone:

Yes

Pharmacy:

Yes

Internet:

Yes

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price
Albergue Check in Rioja	Private	30	10.50€
Albergue de Peregrinos de Logroño	Association	68	7€
Albergue de Peregrinos Puerta del Revellín	Private	40	10.50€
Albergue Parroquial de Santiago	Parochial	30	Donativo
Albergue Logroño	Private	48	10, 20, 30, 45€
Hostel Entresueños	Private	74 (14 for pilgrims)	16€

Things to see
Iglesia de Santiago el Real
Concatedral de Santa María de la Redonda
Mercado de San Blas
Puente de Piedras

Alto de la Grajera

3.60km to

Navarrete

The Alto de la Grajera is part of the park and embalse on the outskirts of Logroño. It is an excellent place to walk through slowly, perhaps to stop in and enjoy some nature.

The dam here, and the resulting ecosystem, was constructed in 1883 as a way to store water for irrigation. Since then the park has grown in size and importance and is one of only a few wetlands that exist in La Rioja. Anyone with a keen interest in bird watching will especially appreciate the protected areas which are home to several species of birds.

Be advised that water area of the park is strictly off limits, so no pilgrim bathing should be attempted.

Navarrete

5.60km to

Ventosa (Galicia)

Navarrete, much fought over and mostly destroyed, no longer has any of it's medieval history to share. It does however have a few covered arcades which give you a sense of it's past. Like is common in otherwise flat land, the town was developed around a hill (you will see plenty more of this strategy before you get back into the mountains).

The Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Asuncion deserves an extra mention here in case you were thinking to skip it. Don't. It maintains hours which can be difficult for pilgrims but do try to make a visit.

If you are staying in Navarrete for the night, you might consider a small climb up the 'Tedeón' to where the castle once stood. There is a nice picnic park there and a good view of the surrounding land.

Fountain:

Yes

Bar:

Yes

Grocery:

Yes

Bakery:

Yes

Butcher:

Yes

ATM:

Yes

Medical Center:

Yes

Hotel, Pensión, or Casa Rural:

Yes

Restaurant:

Yes

Tourist Information:

Yes

Public Phone:

Yes

Pharmacy:

Yes

Internet:

Yes

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price
Albergue de Peregrinos de Navarrete	Municipal	48	7€
Albergue La Casa del Peregrino	Private	20	8€
Albergue El Cántaro	Private	31	10€
Albergue Pilgrim's	Private	38	9€

Things to see
Ruins of Hospital de Peregrinos Saint Juan de Acre
Iglesia de La Asuncion
Cemetary

◁ to Ventosa, △ to follow the Camino

With changing times Ventosa has found itself separated from the camino by the rearrangement of yellow arrows. Going there will not take much more time than just following the arrows. There is at least one bar and albergue.

Ventosa

2.40km to

Alto de San Antón

Fountain:

Yes

Bar:

Yes

Restaurant:

Yes

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price	STAMP
Albergue San Saturnino	Private	42	8.50€

Alto de San Antón

8.20km to

Nájera

5.80km to

Azofra

Nájera, named for it's position "between cliffs," is a town that has been in favor since Sancho III (El Mayor) made it the capital when Pamplona was captured. That was during the start of the 11th.c.

Sancho's preference brought the town much prosperity, including a market which was important element in the funding of the Monastery of Santa Maria.

The entrance to Nájera is, regrettably, not pleasant to the eyes. The new part of town grew up on the East bank of the Río Najerilla (the cliffs prohibit expansion to the West) and much of Nájera's industry is located there. Departing Nájera is notably better as you transition quickly back to the rural roadways that connect many of the smaller villages.

On the way, take notice of the modern aqueducts which help to irrigate the land. They are entirely gravity fed, and rather than being raised above the road they actually pass underneath it.

Fountain:

Yes

Bar:

Yes

Grocery:

Yes

Bakery:

Yes

Butcher:

Yes

ATM:

Yes

Medical Center:

Yes

Hotel, Pensión, or Casa Rural:

Yes

Restaurant:

Yes

Tourist Information:

Yes

Public Phone:

Yes

Public Pool:

Yes, 3.5€

Pharmacy:

Yes

Internet:

Yes

Albergue	Type	Total Beds	Price
Albergue de Najera	Municipal	90	Donativo
Albergue de Peregrinos Sancho III - La Judería	Private	10	7€
Albergue Alberone	Private	44	8€
Albergue Calle Mayor	Private	16	8€
Albergue Puerta de Nájera	Private	32	10€