Camino de Invierno San Pedro to Santiago de Compostela | Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago

Santiago de Compostela


There is a tremendous amount of things to see and things to do in Santiago de Compostela; you are encouraged to stay for at least one full day extra for exploring the web of streets, all of which seem to bring you back to the Cathedral.

The pilgrim’s office and two tourist information offices (one for Santiago, one for Galicia) are located on the Rúa do Vilar. They can provide you will all of the information and maps you could need.

One word of caution regarding accommodation is in order. If you are arriving in the high season, you are advised to make a reservation in advance. There have been several additions to the albergue roster in recent year but the numbers of pilgrims still exceed capacity in the high season.

The Cathedral is the single largest attraction to Santiago and for good reason. Both inside and out it presents countless treasures to investigate, too many to list in fact but below are the best

The Cathedral - Plaza by plaza
1. Azabache: As you enter the city, the first part of the Cathedral that you pass is the Puerta de la Azabachería. This is the entrance that faces the Monastery of San Martin Piñario.

2: Obradoiro: From Azabache you pass under the Palace of the Bishop which is adjoined to the Cathedral and cannot possibly be the sort of palace that affords much peaceful sleeping; the sound of bagpipes welcoming you can be heard from dawn to dusk. The stairway leads directly to the Plaza de Obradoiro and kilometer zero for pilgrims. In the center of the plaza is the last scallop shell and you are likely to find pilgrims taking their shoes off for a photo with it, and the Obradoiro Facade behind them.

This facade is the most majestic and most photographed of the Cathedral and was part of the 18th century building projects that took place in Santiago. The baroque design will keep your eyes moving and the massive amounts of glass allow for the illumination of the Pórtico de la Gloria that lies behind it. That Pórtico was the original front to the church designed by Maestro Mateo 600 years before the new facade.

If you continue around the Cathedral you arrive at the Puerta de las Platerías (named for the silver craft that still exists in the shops below it). You will notice that some of the stonework stands out as a different material. These are replacement carvings, the originals were damaged and subsequently moved to the Cathedral Museum; and unfortunately for us the original composition was forgotten, leaving a somewhat nonsensical layout. In front of the doors are a set of stairs and the Platerías fountain.

Continuing around the Cathedral we arrive in the large Plaza de Quintana and the Puerta de Perdon. The actual Holy Door is behind this facade (which is not actually a structural part of the Cathedral, it is more like a highly decorated wall around the Holy Door itself). The carvings here are impressive and depict 24 Saints and prophets.

In medieval times it was common for pilgrims to spend the night in the Cathedral, sleeping on the stone floors and fighting (to the death on a few occasions) for the privilege of sleeping close to their chapel of choice.

The best time to visit is early in the morning before the crowds arrive, when paying a visit to the crypt and hugging the bust of Santiago can be done quietly and with a bit of contemplation.

The botafumeiro, quite possibly the largest thurible in the Catholic Church, is swung across the transept (from north to south) by a group of men called the tiraboleiros. It has only come loose from the ropes twice, and never in modern times. The 2017 schedule was unclear at the time this book was printed, ask at the pigrims office for more information.

The Monastery and Museum of San Martin Piñario
The enormity of this Monastery is difficult to comprehend, but if you pay close attention to this building as you walk around Santiago you will find that you are almost always standing next to it if you are on the north side of the Cathedral. There are three cloisters! The facade of the church often feels like it is somewhere else entirely and is quite curious for the fact that you must descend the staircase to get to the doors, rather than the other way around. The reason for this was a decree by the Archbishop that no building should exceed in elevation that of the Cathedral; the architects did not compromise by redesigning San Martin to be less tall, they simply dug down and started at a lower point.

San Fiz de Solovio
Compared to the two churches above, San Fiz feels like an almost minuscule affair. To find it, make your way to the Santiago Market. San Pelayo (the hermit that rediscovered the bones of Santiago) was praying here when the lights called him. Grand and majestic it is not, but the oldest building site in Santiago it certainly is. The church that exists today is not the original, but excavations have revealed the foundations and necropolis dating to the 6th century.

The Supply Market (Mercado de Abastos)
The produce market is a great place to wander for lunch. Compared to other markets in Spain (like those in Madrid and Barcelona) the Santiago market is a fairly solemn affair. In fact, the architecture appears almost strictly utilitarian and is as Galician as it gets. The vendors make the experience, and even if your Spanish is not up to par, it is worth the visit for a glimpse into the way the locals go about their most ordinary business.

The buildings you see today date from the early 1940’s but replace ones that stood for 300 years. In fact, many of the vendors are second, third, or fifth generation market operators.

Alameda Park
Alameda Park was once the sort of place where the people of Santiago would turn out for elaborate displays of personal wealth and stature; the various paths that cut through and around the park were only to be used by members of a certain class. Nowadays it is far more democratic. The park is the site of a Ferris wheel and feria during the Summer months, an ice skating rink during the Winter holidays, and a massive eucalyptus tree overlooking the Cathedral year round.

Casa De La Troya
The Troya House is the inspiration for and setting of one of the most celebrated novels in Spanish literature; in which a young man from Madrid if forced by his father to finish his Law studies in Santiago... a tale of misery and eventually love. It was once a boarding house for students and the museum that exists there today is an exhibit of what the house would have looked like at the time the novel was written. The Tuna, those wonderful musicians that perform in the Plaza Obradoiro every night, would have lived and performed here as well.

The Hidden Pilgrim

Hiding in the shadows cast by the Cathedral, in the Plaza Quintana, is the hidden pilgrim. He is only visible at night and might take a while to discover.

And lastly, there are many Monasteries, and while it would be a challenge to visit all of them it is important to realize their construction shaped the city that we see today. Taking the time to walk between them will reveal countless little treasures.


The Feast day of Saint James is celebrated with a full week of music and dance, with a fireworks display in the Plaza Obradoiro on the evening of the 24th of July. The best views can be had from Obradoiro, or from Alameda park.

Photo in Santiago de Compostela on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Santiago de Compostela on the Camino de Santiago
Name Beds Price
1 Albergue Acuario de Santiago de Compostela
Estocolmo, 2

60 10/12 Photo in Albergue Acuario de Santiago de Compostela on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Acuario de Santiago de Compostela on the Camino de Santiago
2 Residencia de Peregrinos San Lázaro
San Lázaro

80 10
3 Albergue Seminario Menor en Santiago de Compostela
Quiroga Palacios

199 10/12 Photo in Albergue Seminario Menor en Santiago de Compostela on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Seminario Menor en Santiago de Compostela on the Camino de Santiago
4 Albergue O Fogar de Teodomiro
Algalia de Arriba, 3

20 15 Photo in Albergue O Fogar de Teodomiro on the Camino de Santiago
5 Albergue de peregrinos Jaime García Rodríguez

150 8
6 Albergue Mundoalbergue
San Clemente, 26

30 12/18 Photo in Albergue Mundoalbergue on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Mundoalbergue on the Camino de Santiago
7 Albergue Santo Santiago
Valiño, 3

40 10
8 Albergue Turístico La Salle
Tras Santa Clara

84 17
9 Albergue Fin del Camino

110 8* Photo in Albergue Fin del Camino on the Camino de Santiago
10 Albergue The Last Stamp
Preguntoiro, 10

62 15/25 Photo in Albergue The Last Stamp on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue The Last Stamp on the Camino de Santiago
11 Albergue Azabache
Azabachería, 15

22 14/18 Photo in Albergue Azabache on the Camino de Santiago
12 Albergue Meiga Backpackers
Basquiños, 67

30 11/13*
13 Albergue Roots & Boots
Cruceiro do Gaio, 7

48 12/18 Photo in Albergue Roots & Boots on the Camino de Santiago
14 Albergue La Estrella de Santiago
Concheiros, 36-38

24 10
15 Albergue Porta Real
dos Concheiros, 10

24 10/15 Photo in Albergue Porta Real on the Camino de SantiagoPhoto in Albergue Porta Real on the Camino de Santiago
16 Albergue La Estación
Xoana Nogueira, 14

24 12
17 Hostal Reis Católicos (Parador de Santiago)
Obradoiro, 1

Photo in Hostal Reis Católicos (Parador de Santiago) on the Camino de Santiago
18 Hospedería San Martín Pinario
Pl. de la Inmaculada, 3

Photo in Hospedería San Martín Pinario on the Camino de Santiago
19 Hotel Nest Style Santiago
Doutor Teixeiro, 15

Photo in Hotel Nest Style Santiago on the Camino de Santiago
20 Hotel Avenida
Fuente de San Antonio, 5

Photo in Hotel Avenida on the Camino de Santiago
21 Hostal Alameda
San Clemente, 32

Photo in Hostal Alameda on the Camino de Santiago
22 Hostal Mapoula
Entremurallas, 10-3

Photo in Hostal Mapoula on the Camino de Santiago
23 Pensión Pazo de Argra
Calderería, 37

24 Albergue Monterrey
Fontiñas, 65a

36 10/12
25 Albergue La Credencial
Fonte dos Concheiros, 13

36 10/14
26 Albergue Compostela
Pedro de Mezonzo, 28

27 Albergue Basquinos 45
Pedro de Mezonzo, 28

28 Albergue Linares
Algalia de Abaixo, 34

29 Blanco Albergue
Galeras, 30

20 12