Camino de Invierno Monforte de Lemos to Chantada
Full services and plenty of historical landmarks to check out. Monforte is the first major city you encounter since leaving Ponferrada, though still not large. Visit the tourist information for an up to date list of accommodation.
From Monforte de Lemos it is a long way before getting to the first town with a bar, Belasar. Pack wisely.
Leave Monforte by crossing the bridge over the river (Avenida de Galicia). Once over the bridge it becomes the Calle de Chantada. Continue until the first roundabout where you will turn towards your left and follow the sign towards “A Vide.” This is the LU-P- 3204. This long and straight asphalt road will take you to A Corga.
If you look closely, you will see faded arrows pointing in various directions. Most people I talked to in these parts recommend staying on the road. Even after long periods without rain it can be very muddy. If in doubt stay on the road until you arrive in Regueiro de Moreda.
From this 12th. c. Roman church with fanciful carvings the camino begins a steep descent along a roman road. The romans have not been around to repair them lately and the going can be rough.
One very nice bar owned by Marcos and his wife. It is up the road on the right-hand side, and it is the only place to get a drink or bite to eat. There is, in fact, nothing on the other side of the bridge except the start of a climb. You have entered the Ribeira Sacra region now, with its steeply terraced vineyards. The cobbled path you descended to arrive here dates back to roman times. The bridge crossed the Rio Miño, which runs north towards Portomarin on the Camino Frances and south towards Portugal. It is rich with history, has it’s own micro-climate which keeps the surrounding hills from freezing, and if you can manage to take one of the evening boat tours from Belasar (particularly the smaller yellow boat) you can get a chance to see a part of the camino not often seen by pilgrims.
Leave Belasar by crossing the bridge and begin your zig zag ascent to Chantada.
All services. Wifi at one of the local bars.
Private accommodation only:
H Hostal Yoel: General Franco, 16 (982 440 294) (recommended)
H Hotel Mogay: Antonio Lorenzana (982 440 847)
Leaving Chantada from the Praza de Santa Ana, continue along Alferez Baanante where the LU-1809 will take you out of town. Arrows will guide you the whole way to Penasillas.