The Camino Primitivo in La Coruña | Wise Pilgrim Guidebooks for the Camino de Santiago
Camino Primitivo Map 10
2.50km → Vilouriz
Altitude: 
710

This high point marks the border between Lugo and La Coruña.

The Road: 

The camino goes up and over the ridge that divides Lugo from La Coruña. A short distance beyond it leaves the road for a trail and descends through the hamlets of Vilouriz and Vilamor before entering Irago de Arriba.

2.20km → Vilamor
Altitude: 
565
0.80km → Irago de Arriba
Altitude: 
490
5.70km → Melide
Altitude: 
450

Welcoming, if somewhat curious, bar. This is the last stop on the Camino Primitivo before it joins the Camino Frances in Melide. The number of pilgrims will increase noticeably. So too will your options for accommodation and morning coffee.

The Road: 

Between Irago and Melide there are a number of small villages and urban sprawl. The first bars appear on the road into Melide.

Camino Primitivo Map 11
5.80km → Boente
Altitude: 
455
Although it has been on the menu as far back as Fonsagrada, Pulpo (octopus) doesn’t seem to garnish much attention until Melide. Despite its apparent disconnect with the sea, Melide’s thriving Thursday market meant that shipping pulpo was a profitable enterprise. It is served today as it was then:...
History: 
Melide is an ancient settlement and despite its importance as a natural crossroad since Neolithic times, it has never been protected by a wall. In Medieval times the overwhelming bulk of the town industries were tied to the camino.
The Road: 

The traffic through Melide can be dangerous, particularly on market days when booths line the crowded streets and the arrows through town become difficult to spot. Arrows direct you towards a small side street through the old part of town that parallels the main road. There are many other yellow...

Accommodation in Melide on the Camino Primitivo

Xunta

1

Albergue de Melide
Xunta
San Antonio, 25
156 6€
Private

2

Albergue Melide
Private
Lugo, 92
57 10€ Photo in Albergue Melide on the Camino de Santiago

3

Albergue O Candil
Private
Principal, 21
12 15*€

4

Albergue O Apalpador II
Private
Cantón de San Roque, 9
32 10€ Photo in Albergue O Apalpador II on the Camino de Santiago

5

Albergue O Apalpador
Private
San Antonio, 23
30 10€ Photo in Albergue O Apalpador on the Camino de Santiago

6

Albergue Alfonso II
Private
Toques y Friol, 52-54
34 10€ Photo in Albergue Alfonso II on the Camino de Santiago

7

Albergue Vilela
Private
San Antonio, 2
28 10€ Photo in Albergue Vilela on the Camino de Santiago

8

Albergue Pereiro
Private
Progreso, 43
40 6/10€

9

Albergue Arraigos
Private
Cantón San Roque, 9
20 10€

10

Albergue San Antón
Private
San Antonio, 6
36 10-12€ Photo in Albergue San Anton on the Camino de Santiago

11

Albergue O Cruceiro
Private
Ronda de A Coruña, 2
72 10€ Photo in Albergue O Cruceiro on the Camino de Santiago

12

Albergue Montoto
Private
Codeseira, 31
50 12€
Casa Rural

13

B&B A Lúa do Camiño
Casa Rural
Circunvalación - Campo da Feira
Photo in B&B A Lúa do Camiño on the Camino de Santiago
Pension

14

Pensión Xaneiro ⭑
Pension
La Habana, 43
Photo in Pensión Xaneiro on the Camino de Santiago

15

Pensión Berenguela
Pension
San Roque, 2

16

Pensión El Molino ⭑
Pension
Castro, 23
Photo in Pensión El Molino on the Camino de Santiago
Hotel

17

Hotel Carlos 96 ⭑
Hotel
Lugo, 119

18

Hotel Sony
Hotel
Santiago

19

Hotel Pousada Chiquitín
Hotel
San Antón, 18
16 30-70€ Photo in Hotel Pousada Chiquitín on the Camino de Santiago
Altitude: 
450
Altitude: 
415
2.80km → Castañeda
Altitude: 
390

The first building in Boente on your left is the Bar de los Alemanes, and this is the best bar in town. Further down the hill, the camino crosses the main road (caution) where two albergues and a few bars are located.

You can get a sello in the Iglesia de...

The Road: 

Walking past the church the camino turns right and descends more. The hills ahead are steep in both directions, take it easy.

Accommodation in Boente

Private

1

Albergue Os Albergues
Private
30 11€ Photo in Albergue Os Albergues on the Camino de Santiago

2

Albergue Boente
Private
En frente de la Iglesia
40 10-12€

3

Albergue El Alemán
Private
40 12€
Altitude: 
380
History: 

It is said that the ovens that produced lime for the construction of the Cathedral were here in Castañeda. Pilgrims carried the raw materials here from Triacastela and swapped it for lime which they carried to Santiago.

The Road: 

It is uphill once more, followed by a steady descent into the valley below, steep at points.

Accommodation in Castañeda

Private

1

Albergue Santiago
Private
6 1€ Photo in Albergue Santiago on the Camino de Santiago
Altitude: 
305

A bar near the river with a large patio for celebrating a successful walk. The river here is quite cold and the perfect place to dip your feet.

The Road: 

The camino to Arzúa begins with a steady walk uphill. By the time you reach the road it levels out and the remaining kilometers are flat into town.

Accommodation in Ribadiso da Baixo

Municipal

1

Albergue de Ribadiso da Baixo
Municipal
Ribadiso de Baixo
70 6€ Photo in Albergue de Ribadiso da Baixo on the Camino de Santiago
Private

2

Albergue Los Caminantes
Private
Ribadiso de Baixo
56 10€ Photo in Albergue Los Caminantes on the Camino de Santiago
2.30km → Arzúa
Altitude: 
350

There is now an albergue in the upper part of Ribadiso. It is located at the top of the climb and before you get to Arzúa.

Accommodation in Ribadiso da Carretera

Private

1

Albergue Milpes
Private
Ribadiso, 7
24 10€ Photo in Albergue Milpes on the Camino de Santiago
2.30km → Pregontoño
Altitude: 
385

Arzúa is a pleasant town with almost enough beds for pilgrims. If you find everything to be full and don’t feel like splurging on one of the many hotels in the area, the Polideportivo (sports hall) is often used to house pilgrims. Between here and O Pedrouzo lie a string of very small Galician...

History: 

Making a connecting between modern Arzúa and its medieval self is an imperfect science. There is no mention of a town with that name, only one in the area called Villanova. Scholars widely agree that the absence of any other Villanova in the area, and the presence of two Romanesque churches in...

Famous for its cheese, Arzúa hosts an annual (and three days long) Festival of Cheese in March. They have been doing so for 40 years.

Several other festivals relating to farming, hunting dogs, and horses fill up the balance of the calendar. Apart from these secular celebrations, Arzúa celebrates Corpus Christi, as well as Nuestra Señora del Carmen, who is celebrated on the 16th of July,

The Road: 

The camino leaves Arzúa along a footpath, NOT the road. If you arrived at the main square, walk past the church (with your back to the road) and turn right onto the side street. The terrain is pleasant, a blend of trails and paved roads through small towns and lots of forests. There are a few...

Accommodation in Arzúa

Xunta

1

Albergue de Arzúa
Xunta
Cima de Lugar, 6
46 6€ Photo in Albergue de Arzúa on the Camino de Santiago
Private

2

Albergue Don Quijote
Private
Lugo, 130
50 10€ Photo in Albergue Don Quijote on the Camino de Santiago

3

Casa del Peregrino
Private
Cima de Lugar, 7
14 10-12€

4

O Albergue de Selmo
Private
Lugo, 133
50 10€

5

Albergue da Fonte
Private
Carme, 18
20 10/12€ Photo in Albergue da Fonte on the Camino de Santiago

6

Albergue O Santo
Private
Xosé Neira Vilas, 4
22 12€

7

Albergue Santiago Apóstol (Arzúa)
Private
Lugo, 107
72 10/12€

8

Albergue Ultreia
Private
Lugo, 126
38 10*€ Photo in Albergue Ultreia on the Camino de Santiago

9

Albergue Los Caminantes
Private
Santiago, 14
28 10€

10

Albergue Via Lactea
Private
José Antonio, 26
120 10/12€ Photo in Albergue Via Lactea on the Camino de Santiago

11

The Way Hostel Arzúa
Private
Cima do Lugar, 28
40 10/17€

12

De Camino Albergue
Private
Lugo, 118
46 10€ Photo in De Camino Albergue on the Camino de Santiago
Pension

13

Pensión Casa Teodora
Pension
Lugo, 38

14

Pensión Mesón do Peregrino
Pension
Ramón Franco, 7

15

Pensión Cima do Lugar
Pension
Cima do Lugar, 22

16

Pensión Rúa
Pension
Lugo, 130
Hotel

17

Pazo Santa María
Hotel
O Pazo
Photo in Pazo Santa María on the Camino de Santiago

18

Hotel Suiza
Hotel
Vello

19

La Casona de Nené
Hotel
Padre Pardo, 24
Photo in Arzúa on the Camino de Santiago
Altitude: 
340

Accommodation in Pregontoño

Private

1

Albergue Camiño das Ocas
Private
30 10€
Altitude: 
385
Altitude: 
385
1.40km → Boavista
Altitude: 
345

Calle is a town forsaken by modernization. Apart from a pair of bars, it does not appear that much has changed in recent centuries. The camino twists and turns through it, crossing a small creek next to a large wash basin.

1.80km → Salceda
Altitude: 
380
Altitude: 
370

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