To the right of the main road when entering are a pair of bars that serve food to a mix of pilgrims and long road truck drivers, the Meson Alba being the most authentic dive of the two.
Be extremely cautious with passing traffic. Buildings crowd the road and force you to share the space with very large and fast moving trucks.
Villafranca Montes de Oca, named for the nettle-filled mountains to the west, sits at the foot of the Pedraja pass. If you have become accustomed to the gently rolling hills behind you, brace yourself for a climb.
Between here and San Juan de Ortega lay 12km of fountain-less and...