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069 Tunis again...
070 Tunis
071 Khladia 2053 kms
072 Zaghouan 2091 kms
073 Enfidha 2132 kms074 Sousse 2181 kms
075 Monastir 2207 kms
076 Bekalta 2241 kms
077 Rejiche 2271 kms
078 Rejiche 2271 kms
079 Chebba 2306 kms
080 El Louza 2344 kms
081 Sfax 2391 kms
083 Nakta 2417 kms
084 Mahdas 2453 kms
085 Skirra 2493 kms
086 Akrit 2530 kms
087 Gebes 2567 kms088 Zircene 2597 kms
089 Arram 2623 kms
090 Saadame 2659 kms
091 Chahbania 2695
092 Ben Gardene 2742 kms
093 Ras Adjir 2778 kms
094 Bukamas LIBYA 2804 kms
095 Zuara 2844 kms
096 Sabrata 2880 kms
097 Jadda'aim 2926 kms
098 Tripoli 2968 kms
099 Tripoli 2968 kms
100 Sidi Burrum 3008 kms
101 Tripoli 3044 kms
102 [flight to Egypt]

Thomas Jefferson said in reference to Grey's Rebellion that 'a little revolution from time to time is a good thing.' But the one here in Egypt is interrupting my pilgrimage =(

I'm still enjoying Cairo - the quarter called 'Garbage Town' - because today's the first aniversary of the revolution and the demonstrations against the interim military control has created a bit of instability among the citizenry. I've got a route figured out but need to be taken about 40 kilometers south of the city to a point where I can begin. Knowing the starting point with certainty is a key element of the successful arrival at the destination. Today's not a good day to travel, everyone among the warm Coptic community tells me. Tomorrow's better. Enjoy the Egyptian hospitality and cuisine. I can easily and enjoyably do that!

This pilgrimage differs from all the others I've made. Each time previously, I got up and walked each day, except the very few days I had good reason not to - head cold, boot repair, holiday... This pilgrimage my steady program of walking has been punctuated with extended time-outs... I've hunkered down for planning and thinking quite a few times now... would it have been the same if I had been able to start on the day of St Michael the Archangel instead of St Jerome the thinker? The point is moot. Tomorrow, inshallah, I'll finally be able to begin the desert trek - eastward up one long dry wadi to the top of a plateau then southward down another... Doh! it rained last night in Garbage Town... I hope my wadis are still dry!

Oh, and boot update... The durable, inflexible, heavy soles have been holding up remarkably well. The interior lining at the back of the heal have been troublesome having gotten warn and frayed cutting into the skin on my Achilles giving me blisters. Each repair has only lasted a short while. Calluses are thick by now, so it just doesn't matter any more. Sitting idle in Cairo, I thought I'd go ahead and have the extra heals I've been carrying put on for the last rather rocky 1,000 kilometers I face but the cobblers I've talked with don't have the tools to deal with molded soles. It's all been a folly. Lackaday!

The annual wood-chopping party took most of Saturday to happen, with most of the male population of Moratinos chopping, lopping, picking up, binding, sweeping, raking, shouting, and backhoe-wrangling. After everyone got cleaned up we reconvened in the Ayuntamiento Bar/classroom/meeting room for La Merienda, "refreshements:"  Veal ribeyes, barbecued over the grapevine fire outside, superb Cerrato cheese, and quince jam, and the grapey new wine to try, as well as a lineup of hair-raising moonshine.  It was manly food, slabs of hot meat eaten out of hand, cheese carved off the round with a shared knife, wine poured from a re-used plastic liter bottle into beer-logo bar glasses. 

I write "we," even though the Plaza Tree-Trimming this year was overwhelmingly male. Right up to the end I was the only woman there. While the men rode backhoe buckets and rickety ladders into the treetops and weilded blades and roaring chainsaws on high, I stuck to the girly-girl tasks of chopping out dead wood with a sickle, pruning the rose-trees, and raking out a foot of fallen leaves in the little flower garden in the middle of the plaza. (The actual growing of flowers is up to more experienced ladies like Milagros and Flor, Leandra and Angeles. Me? I wait til winter. I deal with the dead. We all have our place in the Circle of Life that is our municipal flowerbed.) 

The outcome of all this is a shockingly clean Plaza Mayor, where the tortured plane trees look like chickens planted head-down in buckled concrete. In summer they will make a leafy canopy over the plaza, but for now? Well. It is something very stark and Castilian. The other outcome is tons of wood trimmings, split up among the locals for use in their wood-burning furnaces and fireplaces.

This year the lads with the chainsaws also trimmed the decorative trees in our woodlot, a little triangle of unusable land right at the western entrance to Moratinos. The trees belong to the town, but the land belongs to us -- and so the wood on it is ours. (Or so I assume. It could be nobody else wants to bother with scrappy wood  way over in el Barrio Arriba, our end of town.) The men helped us drag the biggest, thickest branches up into our back patio, but several trees´ worth of wood still lie on the ground down there. And this is how Patrick and I are occupying our days this week. We are lumber-jacking all that wood into fuel for next winter.

It is hard physical labor. The sun is supposed to shine all this week, however, and Paddy seemed keen to tackle the job. 

Paddy wakes up early and walks the dogs a good four miles each morning, no matter the weather. He does his share of cleaning and cooking around the house, he eats healthfully and he gets plenty of sleep. He is not in bad condition, considering all the abuse heaped on his body over his almost-71 years. But this morning, dragging a tree trunk up to our back gate, he looked like a victim of Elder Abuse. He muttered something about an article this weekend in El Pais, the 10 Signs of Heart Attack. He has all of them, he said.

"Stop this then, you daft bastard," I said. "We´ll leave the wood. I bet Fran will be glad to take it. He loves collecting firewood."
"No way am I paying someone to bring us firewood in a truck, while we have all that perfectly good stuff just lying out there for free," Paddy panted. His eyes rolled up into his head.
"So then. You hatchet the twigs and limbs off the trunks and chop it up. There´s a brand-new blade on the chainsaw. I´ll do the hauling," I told him. I hiked down to the woodlot. The two little piles of branches the men left there Saturday had multiplied into the crudely-hacked remains of at least six trees. But I was valiant.

For many hours I lifted and hauled, lurched and swore. I left a trail of twigs behind me as I dragged branches up the steep incline onto the N120, made the sharp right onto the shoulder, and shlepped along the guardrail 100 meters or so to our back gate. Murphy Cat watched, scornful, from the horsetail trees.  Fran, the neighbor who collects firewood, came by to offer advice and comfort. Paddy chopped and stacked.

It went on for hours. We still are not finished. 

All day we ate leftovers cadged from the fridge, and a loaf of bread made overnight in the bread machine, spread with fabulously fresh peanut butter Philip hauled over in his baggage. We have some Cerrato cheese of our own, and some Cecina de Leon (the world´s finest dried beef). We have a bottle of past-its-due-date  Vega Sauco Toro wine, watered-down. The fire dances bright in the stove, and Rostropovich on the stereo, making his cello cry over something Brahms.

The dogs and cat are curled into Cs and Os in their beds, and soon we will sign off on our own consciousnesses in our own comfy places. Wood and good chilly air, hard labor for future comfort, and an early sunset.

The novels are not finished, but the woodpile is growing.
We are not youthful, but we are fine.

   

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El sábado pasado salí de ruta,lo menos fueron 90 kilómetros pero...
...no puedo relatar nada al respecto, ya que la ruta forma parte de un capítulo del libro que estoy escribiendo.Estoy invirtiendo mucho esfuerzo y muchas horas de investigación.

Siendo claros: no encuentro trabajo y me gustaría ganar dinero con este tema.
Hay quien se dedica a escribir libros sobre mecánica de bicicleta,viajes de cicloturismo,el camino de Santiago.

Esto me apasiona, como sabéis los que me leéis a menudo ,las rutas en bicicleta o a pie por la naturaleza,la fotografía,Galicia,el Camino.
No importa el orden y en mi caso quiero que  el libro trate sobre algunas de las rutas de mi blog,creo que me lo merezco y mi novia mucho más.

Aprovecho para anunciar al mundo que ¡¡¡vamos a ser papás!!!

Seguiré ofreciendo rutas gratuitas en mi blog,como siempre,¡como no!,pero no vivo del aire y quiero ver si esto me ayuda.

Publicar en la revista de viajes Pazos de Galicia ,de la que soy colaborador,me animó mucho a seguir luchando por lo que quiero.

El domingo dejé la bici un día y fui con mi novia y nuestro adorable sobrino de cuatro añitos a dar un paseo por el campo,pero gracias a mi se convirtió en una pequeña ruta de senderismo.
Estuvimos en Viascón,a  12 kilómetros de Pontevedra.

Se trata del "Sendero "A Vía Escondida",una ruta de unos 17 kilómetros,pero hicimos una pequeña parte de él.

Partimos del Hotel-Restaurante Casa Manolo,sito en Viascón,junto a la N-541.

Cerca encontramos a nuestro paso otro interesante sendero:
"As Coutadas",paralelo al río Cabanelas.

Pasamos una tarde muy agradable en plena naturaleza,disfrutando de la tranquilidad del campo.
Olvidando la crisis y sus quebraderos de cabeza por unas horas.

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 Leaving Pamplona, we walk through Cizur Menor and up over the Alto del Perdon, where hundreds of pilgrims like ourselves have taken the obligatory photograph of themselves alongside the wonderful wrought iron sculpture of medieval pilgrims, heads bent into the wind.  Coming down the other side of the 790 m hill puts us in Uterga, where there is the smallest albergue I know of. One room houses

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