Day 18 along the Camino de Santiago took Declan, Simon and I to Carrion de Los Condes in Castile and León. We had been having a ball walking and talking and growing more attached to each other, so when Simon decided his wrecked feet and knees needed a break, and elected to take a bus and skip a few stages, Declan and I were very sorry to see him go. In fact, we were all a bit verklempt.

The day's walk was fairly quiet for most of the morning and early afternoon. The road took us through a hamlet whose name I can't find in my notes and which was utterly, creepily deserted. But we heard music echoing as if through a loudspeaker and followed it to the restaurant you see in the top photo. Chairs were overturned and there were signs as if a large group of people had left in a hurry.

We called out for a proprietor and it took awhile before he showed up; even his dog didn't want to rouse itself to check itself until we sat down with some food. As we sat and contemplated the state of things, we spied a long crowd of pilgrims making their way down the road nearby. They and others became our company for the rest of the afternoon, as you can see from the second photo. (That's Declan and Simon in the foreground.)

Lots of activity in Carrion de Los Condes. Big crowds of tourists as well as peregrinos. We watched a small film crew race around following a pretty, sporty woman who was apparently a known television presenter. They had a Steadicam, microphones, the whole shebang.

While Simon investigated bus tickets, Declan and I checked into Monasterio de Santa Clara for the night. Yet another haunted monastery! We slept four beds to a room, but I swear to you it felt as if we had unseen roommates keeping us company all night long. Don't think I didn't savor spending the night in a monastery that dates back to the 13th Century. That doesn't happen every day, even on the Camino.

Carrion de Los Condes benefits tremendously these days from the pilgrim hordes and has received state money to upgrade the town's facilities. So it's very clean and well-kept with lots of shops and restaurants and tourist attractions. As you would expect, there are several magnificently preserved cathedrals and other historic sites. It's a town on my list to explore more closely in the future; they also have their own website now.

The third photo is a view of the Monasterio de San Zoilo, which I took the next morning on the way out of town. The interior has been converted to a massively expensive hotel with all the modern amenities. But look at it. I mean, really.

After we sent Simon on his way, Declan and I wandered off in separate directions for awhile. Again, I felt a restorative energy flushing through my body. Some towns along the Camino simply feel like healing places. My muscles ached but I felt stronger, more physically capable, there was no question about it. As the sun began to set, I bought an ice cream and sat on a bench and watched the swallows wheel across the sky devouring mosquitos. Declan came looking for me because the albergue curfew was fast approaching. I felt at peace and, honestly, at that moment, I really didn't want to be anywhere else.

Photo credit: © Benjamin Scuglia.
Email: It's Hot in Topeka
Twitter: @500Turtles
NEW: Amazon Kindle: CLICK HERE

Day 18 along the Camino de Santiago took Declan, Simon and I to Carrion de Los Condes in Castile and León. We had been having a ball walking and talking and growing more attached to each other, so when Simon decided his wrecked feet and knees needed a break, and elected to take a bus and skip a few stages, Declan and I were very sorry to see him go. In fact, we were all a bit verklempt.

The day's walk was fairly quiet for most of the morning and early afternoon. The road took us through a hamlet whose name I can't find in my notes and which was utterly, creepily deserted. But we heard music echoing as if through a loudspeaker and followed it to the restaurant you see in the top photo. Chairs were overturned and there were signs as if a large group of people had left in a hurry.

We called out for a proprietor and it took awhile before he showed up; even his dog didn't want to rouse itself to check itself until we sat down with some food. As we sat and contemplated the state of things, we spied a long crowd of pilgrims making their way down the road nearby. They and others became our company for the rest of the afternoon, as you can see from the second photo. (That's Declan and Simon in the foreground.)

Lots of activity in Carrion de Los Condes. Big crowds of tourists as well as peregrinos. We watched a small film crew race around following a pretty, sporty woman who was apparently a known television presenter. They had a Steadicam, microphones, the whole shebang.

While Simon investigated bus tickets, Declan and I checked into Monasterio de Santa Clara for the night. Yet another haunted monastery! We slept four beds to a room, but I swear to you it felt as if we had unseen roommates keeping us company all night long. Don't think I didn't savor spending the night in a monastery that dates back to the 13th Century. That doesn't happen every day, even on the Camino.

Carrion de Los Condes benefits tremendously these days from the pilgrim hordes and has received state money to upgrade the town's facilities. So it's very clean and well-kept with lots of shops and restaurants and tourist attractions. As you would expect, there are several magnificently preserved cathedrals and other historic sites. It's a town on my list to explore more closely in the future; they also have their own website now.

The third photo is a view of the Monasterio de San Zoilo, which I took the next morning on the way out of town. The interior has been converted to a massively expensive hotel with all the modern amenities. But look at it. I mean, really.

After we sent Simon on his way, Declan and I wandered off in separate directions for awhile. Again, I felt a restorative energy flushing through my body. Some towns along the Camino simply feel like healing places. My muscles ached but I felt stronger, more physically capable, there was no question about it. As the sun began to set, I bought an ice cream and sat on a bench and watched the swallows wheel across the sky devouring mosquitos. Declan came looking for me because the albergue curfew was fast approaching. I felt at peace and, honestly, at that moment, I really didn't want to be anywhere else.

Photo credit: © Benjamin Scuglia.
Email: It's Hot in Topeka
Twitter: @500Turtles
NEW: Amazon Kindle: CLICK HERE

A couple weeks ago, two friends and I set out on a Jim Duggan adventure to the Laguna Mountains east of San Diego - and an amazing adventure it was. Jim is a horticulturalist for the Getty Museum Central Garden, a wonder of the art and plant world, and an expert on San Diego hiking. I can remember the first time I looked over the edge to the Getty Central Garden, a Wow! experience, unforgettable like where were you when you heard Kennedy died.

Everyone goes to the Anza Borrego desert for early spring flowers. How many know about the spectacular mountain meadows and hillsides of the Lagunas in springtime? Our mission was Noble Canyon in late April to hike and see the flowers.  The original trail was put in by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930's.  Why aren't we putting people to work these days with lasting projects like this?

 
We set off through  pine and oak forests, Kathleen (pink shirt) covered head to toe due to severe allergy to poison oak, Jim in his trademark shorts regardless of rattlesnake risk.  While our trail head was Penny Pines leading onto the Noble Canyon trail, Jim cut off at one point to our destination, the Sunset Trail skirting Laguna Meadow.
 
We climbed to a ridge with view to a beautiful valley below which may be Filaree Flats. 

Still everywhere is evidence of the wildfires that raged through this area almost a decade ago.  I worried about all the critters that must have been crisped, but Kathleen reassured me that many smaller animals went underground, the larger ones were able to flee, and not many carcasses were found after the fire.

Life renews itself in the spring., like these sprouting black oak leaves.  The very baby ones are still red.

Farther on, the long Laguna Meadow opened up and I got a Wyeth Christina photo of Debra.

After heading into the forest ridge down to Big Laguna Lake in the distance, we headed back along the edge of the meadow, Jim and Kathleen stopping to examine, photo and note the botany of the area.  Deb said later she was grateful for their stops.  He's a hard guy to keep up with.

 I took a few flower photos of my own,

we headed back to the trail head, and climbed into the car to head north on Sunrise Highway.  Hillsides on both sides of the road were filled with Ceanothus, the California version of lilacs, and magenta western redbud. How many times can you say Wow!
We got out again at the Pedro Fages Historical Marker,

which reads,
On October 29, 1772, Colonel Pedro Fages headed east from San Diego searching for army deserters.  It was the first entry by Europeans into Oriflamme Canyon.  From there, Fages and his men travelled on through Cajon Pass, around the Mojave and the Central Valley, and eventually reached Mission San Luis Obispo.  As a result, he discovered the Colorado Desert and the San Joaquin Valley.
Whoever placed this marker was clearly having a Columbus discovered America moment.
Colonel Pedro Fages commanded the original Spanish army sent to stake a claim in California.   Along with Father Junipero Serra, they all climbed the Presidio hill in 1769 and planted the cross for Spain.  
You gotta wonder about a guy willing to head this far out into uncharted- for them - territory looking for a few deserters.  I wondered how they made their way, fed themselves,  and kept on track until I read this letter written by Don Pedro to Don Jose de Galvez.  If you're from San Diego, take the time to read this part of our history.   You've also gotta wonder about anyone who would desert in an unknown land into the back wilderness of San Diego County.

An old road could be seen going east, crossing into Oriflamme Canyon, used by travelers and stage coaches in the 1800's, but we turned west along an unnamed trail with wonderful tree skeletons,

and a view toward Cuyamaca Reservoir.

We were all walked out for the day, ready to turn back, when Jim pointed out a stripe through the valley below.
"Part of the old road where it turned to go into San Diego", he said.  

History, it's everywhere.

We arrived at Pepillo Grillo around 1 pm and were asked if we wanted a dorm with 8 beds for $18 or a private double for $20. Both prices include breakfast.

We took the private double although so far we are the only two people here. Not many pilgrims appear to be walking this week. Probably smart due to the weather.

I called downstairs to ask what time the bar opened and was told 4 pm.

At this place we explored old hot baths along the rivers edge. We soaked our feet in the cold river and then in the lukewarm 'healing' waters. I have to admit my feet and legs were much better next morning! More photos to post later. It was a fascinating place. We paid 18 euro each for simple pilgrim rooms. No kitchen.